Category: Subaru Forum

Good evening A few days ago I bought a 6k Bj 2000 1.4l 60 ps petrol truck and so far TÜV finished. Now I was on Tuesday at the TÜV… everything so far ok up to AU. There is noticed that the Lambda probe is probably defective, however the motor control light does not light up. Also when igniting it does not work for a short time. What can this be? Glued off or what is pre-supplied nix hab Tacho already developed and looked after something like that have already experienced but here lies the error woh l where different. Is it also relevant to TÜV. And does someone have an intact lambda probe? Mfg Andre

Hello community, I would like to ask you for help after a long search in the net. We have a Seat Ibiza II 6K1, BJ 97 with an AEX 60PS gasoline engine in it. For a long time we had acquaintance with the ABS lamp, i.e…. the ABS has reliably latched out at 10-20kmh speed and has rattered like nothing. With “happiness” the lamp was on afterwards. When the lamp was on the ABS did nothing more. Everything was quiet. Now a few long weeks ago the wheel bearing had to be right The ABS is dead and nothing happens, almost creepy still. However, now the handbrake is also causing problems?… Since the workshop visit, the handbrake control lamp turns on when you move. Now the car wants to go to the TÜV and I wanted to see what can be done. Can you read out the seat despite the year of construction? What could it be? And above all… can you narrow down anything at all? Or do you need to re-make it – since this has been done, the lamp ALWAYS gleams. a but a workshop that then doubles the value of the car?… I hope a few questions are solved by you now, so you get through hard at the beginning…. Greetings, Micah

Hello, I came across an interesting offer when looking for my first car. I could lease the Seat Ibiza Beats 1.0 mpi (80ps) for 290€/month with insurance, winter bikes and service package. Fzg is a daily registration and then has 15000km free each year. For 30€ more I would get the Ibiza Beats with 1.0 tsi with 95ps. My driving profile is mainly weekend tours and then more motorway than anything else. I live in the middle of Munich, which is why I am with the U-Bah n to work pendulum. However, since I commute almost every weekend 150km to parents or parents of my girlfriend I would like to buy a car. The question that arises to me is whether the 1.0 mpi is enough for the weekends or whether it should be better the 1.0 tsi. Please no principle discussion about leasing, I have calculated this several times and with every reliable used I come with loss of value insurance (although 25 during the study no car allowed on me ) at significantly higher costs. I would be very grateful if you could give me a recommendation here. Have a garage, which is why the space for a car in Munich is also there.

Hello guys, I drive a Seat Ibiza 6L 1.9 TDI 100 HP BJ 2002, installed and registered is a coilover suspension. I have the following problem: I had my wheels replaced today. At the front were 6Jx14 ET35. That seemed strange to me, because actually belong on my Seat Ibiza 6Jx14 ET43. So now I have the new tires on the ET 43 rims, which I bought and then came the problem: With 3/4 steering impact it cracks while driving, catches with full steering impact In the workshop, the drive shaft and a gearbox damage were first suspected, but I saw, unfortunately, not the car master, that the weight of the two rims on the VA was grinding at the track bar. I then drove near the TÜV for safety reasons, which printed an extract from the COC papers – the correct size is definitely the ET 43. The TÜVler recommended that I have glue weights attached to the rim, as with aluminium rims. I did this. Now the weight was no longer sanding the rim horn at the track rod. I then drove home and pulled the other wheels, which were on it again when the vehicle was taken over, with ET 35. These don’t grind. The chassis was registered by the previous owner and the track measured, with the ET 35 wheels on it. However, the TÜV and the workshop said that it was the right track rod incl. track rod head installed. Just leave the ET 35 entries and then be quiet. But now my question, since the TÜVler has never had such a case before: Can it be after lowering that the series ET no longer fits or what can be going on here? I hope someone can help me. LG Emerald

Hello, I’m trying to be brief. At the moment (since 06/2017) I’m driving an Ibiza 6L BJ 09/2005 (177,000 km) and I’m very happy with it. ZR was changed 117,000 and would have to be changed at 207,000 km. (I’m driving 12,000 km a year) The following problem: climate doesn’t work, probably a leak. A good friend who has a little idea, said the repair would cost 600€-700€. (Corrects me if I’m wrong.) That’s for me as a As a result, I have been struggling for days with the idea of buying a new car at the beginning of 2020 or investing in the repair of my current car. Budget would be €3,000. Now you’re asking professionals 🙂 , are there any cars in this price range where you would say that you can survive well for the next 3-4 years or is it always the same “danger” in this price segment. Maybe a Ford Focus MK2 101 hp? Thank you in advance Thomas

Hello together, I know that there are many topics to this, but unfortunately nothing that fits exactly, because the engine is not sooo old yet. It is about the 3 cylinder 1.0l with 110hp The vehicle has unfortunately not been set on “flex interval” and therefore I should now after 6500KM and 1 year for the oil change. The “friendly” would like to miss the longlife and estimates once more 130-150€ for the oil change (incl. filters and working hours). How absurd 6500KM and 1 year running. with Longlife oil, only the customers seem to understand why I just ask how you will handle it in the future? With a new car to a free workshop because of the oil change? Buy and bring oil yourself? With the “friendly” let the oil change?

Hello we bought our son an Ibiza 6L as first car year 2008. Since the old radio (Alana) was broken I bought a Pioneer DEH-S310BT.Incl connection set for Seat Ibiza 6l.https://www.amazon.de/…/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?… So that the steering wheel control goes again I ordered this interface.https://www.amazon.de/…/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?… So I thought that I had everything??? Now my question: Which cable comes out of the Radi o out and go into the blue AVC adapter??? I once hung a few pictures on it as I connected it. Do I need another cable?In the description this cable is shown with a jack plug!? On the radio 2 jack plugs go out. one is for the microphone and the other for the grounding?According to description.For what is the blue system Remoute Control? And where do I connect the blue for the antenna? I hope you can help me ??!!! Thank you very much Jörg

Hello dear motor-talk community and Seat experts 😉 I have been driving a Seat Ibiza 6K GP01 (built in 2001) for 2 years now with the 1.4 MPI 8 valve engine (MKB is AUD). The car is wonderful and I had no problems (apart from the well-known KW Hose Ventilation Tube). By the way, it now has 165,000 km down. Now it’s time for a timing belt change again. The last one was in 2009 at 91,000 KM. Does any of you have a guide or know each other with What I’m particularly interested in are tightening torques / possibly special tools needed and the belt tension to be adjusted. I couldn’t find anything in the net. Does someone just happen to know the correct time for insertion and removal (including WAPU)? By the way: Is there any known whistle noise from the belt drive with this engine? Have a slight whistle since last week but no time to locate it more precisely. The noise comes and goes. Only that it comes from the area belt drive and independent of engine temp. and climate (on / off) is I can say with certainty so far. Perhaps an old Seat Rabbit knows of you a known problem/disease at the engine. Will look again next week. Thank you already for the answers 🙂