Category: Subaru Forum

Hello guys, I’ve already created a topic a while ago, but it’s now primarily about the idling speed of the vehicle: Seat Ibiza,1,6 16V (105hp) Engine code:BTS, key number: 7593/ACZ. The car always has a different idling speed, if the car stands longer, it turns 1200upm, times 1000, times only 700Upm.. Strange is also, if the car is really warm, I start and only slightly tap the gas, it goes directly from normal idling number (about 700upm) to 1000 high and stays in this idle speed, only after longer driving, this then scrapes off and the car runs a little rough.. Drosselklappe I have tried already 3 pcs., always the same.. As if the DK, respectively the ECU, after each start, the learning values lose, how can that be? It always seems as if he has to grease…. DK was of course learned.. Climate and co. always out, error memory empty.. The question in general: Why does he always spin differently high I am aware that depending on the outside temperature and temperature of the engine/cat, the car goes into the cold running phase, but why always with different speeds, I never had that before.. Exhaust gas values were wonderful at the AU.. Lamda probes and SGD sensor also new.. Leak no to find any that could indicate a side air… Control unit a flaw?? Did anyone ever have that? ? Thank you in advance. Greetings Dominik

Moin, short history: Our Seat Ibziza failed during the last headup examination. The rear shock absorber springs, as well as a leak in the exhaust system were faulted. Both have been fixed by a buddy of mine. When trying to start the car for a test drive, it ran very rough and went out afterwards. After that the car could not start. After the error was read out (sporadic error Nochenwellensensor) I have a new camshaft sensor worried. This was installed today and the fault filler deleted. The car still no longer starts, error memory now shows no errors. The following things we tested: – Battery Spanning 11.9V, start with booster brought no success – Brake cleaner in suction application – no success – Check of the belts: everything turns when starting – Check of the chain: camshaft turns – Check of the fuses: all in order – During the start process are noticeably L airflows from the exhaust were removable, the cylinders seem to work. Who has ideas about what can still be purged to find the error?? Seat Ibiza 6j, 1.2L ADN, built in 2009, about 130,000KM, control chain renewed at 110.00KM. Thanks Greeting Christian

Hello. I have discovered the above adapter. On the manufacturer’s side my factory radio is specified as compatible. Only there is still a note that I don’t quite understand. Can someone enlighten me? “Steering wheel controls and MFA High Line cluster is required for phone. “So my 6J is from 2010 has no bluetooth and media-in factory installed. But I have this steering wheel remote control. On the radio I have one for CD-changers and Telefónica with the large connection (Quad-Lock?!) On the radio, however, this is not to be seen. (must be unlocked?) The steering wheel remote control is one without the telephone control.

Hello everyone my wife drives from the store a Seat Ibiza, year 2011, 5-door. The car has so many flaws (e.g. assistance stops just stubbornly 3 seconds, even if you want to leave … … but one is quite bad, namely the extreme reflections of the dashboard in the windshield. Even the black parts blind, let alone the silver part on the dashboard. Quite extremely bad is it e.g. with current sun noon, sun from front and egg This is an absolute blind flight and extremely dangerous and ridiculous. On the one hand, I wanted to ask you whether this is a well-known problem and on the other, how can we remedy it? Thank you for your help! vg louis

Since the middle of January, the Alcantara package is no longer available for Ibiza and Arona. This was already strange, since the model was only on the market for a few months at that time. Why is an option taken from the market after a few months? Only today, a SEAT seller justified this fact with a “brand” at a supplier. I mean to have read this already in other articles. On my question, which plant would have burned, he could not have As has already been seen in many questions, car sellers are the very last to pass on information to customers (whether aware or because they don’t know better, I can’t judge). I refer here only to the exhaust emission standards valid from 1 September, which were completely unknown to almost all sellers in January 2018, even it was negated that there would be changes. Alcantara will only be by one manufacturer according to my information. There are no reports at all at google “Alcantara”, “Werk” and “Brand”. This is strange in that at least some newspapers would have to report on it at such a dramatic event. Perhaps someone with Italian knowledge can google and share his results here. Otherwise, I think there are quite different reasons for stopping the Alcantara seats: 1. Possibility: The supplier has had higher price demands, which the VW Group did not want to accept, so it was taken out of the program. 2. Possibility: The Alcantara seats look too high-quality, so that the distance to VW and Audi is no longer maintained. The VW Group has forced Seat to remove the seats from the program. I am looking forward to opinions on these these theses.

The Seat Cordoba (now the 6th owner) should not be left standing anywhere for more than 5 days, otherwise the battery is completely empty. Every day I have to drive a few km with it, maybe even just switch on/off once, I have not yet tested. All consumptions are locked off test by test, rest current always around the 10-20 mA. Nevertheless, the battery does not last. Until I decided to drive with the car regularly the ADAC had to give 4 times starting aid. R The voltage when the motor is switched on in the empty run is exactly 14.3 volts. The current at the plus pole by means of current pliers measured at only 0.6 amperes. Then you still wonder why you get the feeling that the battery is not being charged properly. The battery was also changed at the beginning of spring. Didn’t help much. So that I don’t have a new battery or a new one now. I would first like to know what the reason could be for the low current of 0,6 A in idle mode. I don’t want to do research anymore, so I ask, for example, how to test cables on resistors. This is also unnecessary again. The voltage is constant at 14,3 V. Rest current very low. Even if everything is disconnected, the battery discharges. It is interesting to disconnect the battery after switching off the motor. The battery lasts for a long time. slow there are only contradictions. Maybe there is still a current hole. Maybe the battery is broken? I am primarily interested in the low current.