Category: Subaru Forum

Good morning to All After a headlight change at a Seat Ibiza year 2018 these partly do not work. Headlights incl. Stg. bought and installed at the friendly. Passing beam works quite normal, driving light does not work! The control unit has to be coded because there is currently no coding on this. VCDS started -> ECUs -> D6 light control left 2 -> Coding is unfortunately grayed out. I would need to login/access bere but don’t know where VCDS shows me nothing. Thank you in advance for your answers! Greetings Onur

Hello, I am currently working on a Seat Ibiza 6L 1.4 TDI and am at the end with my knowledge. Now to the beginning of the whole: The Seat had a strong water loss of about 1 liter per day and misted accordingly strongly. After about 2 days of standstill the engine did not start and cared only. After a long organ he then jumped on and sounded strongly climpering/grinding. The first thought was that he had started to rust slightly during the service life, especially on the cylinder. I degraded the cylinder head and tested it for rust. Between cylinders 2 and 3 the cylinder head seal was damaged, and the cylinders had superficial rust. I then sanded it slightly with felt (if you can already call it grinding). Then the cylinder head seal and the extension screws were renewed and everything was put back on OT. Now everything is assembled again, but he orgles and still doesn’t start. Once he started, however, after approx. That means there is the same starting problem as in the beginning.

Hello dear Seat community! I will soon switch from a Civic Type S to a Seat, the diesel will unfortunately not be promoted at Honda, so it will no longer be a Honda although I was very satisfied with the car, especially with the engine. But since I also have plenty of experience with VW/Skoda it is now to become a car from this area again. My choice falls on Seat. Now I can’t quite decide, I fluctuate between a Seat Ibiza FR TDI Bocanegra in white and d nem Seat Leon FR TDI in white with black rims. In addition to the price question (Leon is about 4oo€ above Ibiza) the eye and the fun of driving decides of course, followed by the space and the suitcase aum. Who can tell me tips and experiences, especially with regard to the Leon FR TDI with CRD, the Ibiza FR TDI is probably not yet among the people as I can expect many reviews there. I looked at the Ibiza and drove it also briefly, has quite a lot of S I don’t know why the final speed is so much slower than with Skoda and VW/Audi? These are 222-224km/h and the Leon at 214km/h, I think it’s quite amazing. Is the car translated differently or is it the same as the car? If the car is not translated, it is not the same as the car, it is not the same as the car. If the car is not translated, it is not the same as the car. The CW value shouldn’t be so bad… How are the prices for the inspection, Seat has a 15000 km interval in contrast to VW/Audi and Skoda. How is the consumption with the Leon on average etc… Please look forward to much information about both vehicles!

Hi guys, I have a rust problem on my Ibiza 6L (Bj 05/2006): Both hinges of the tailgate gammeln on the weld seams in front of them, on the left side even peels off on approx. 5cm width of the paint. (see picture) I would be interested to know if one of you had problems with rust on a seat and what experiences he/she had with the rusting guarantee of Seat. I find it simply an insolence that a grade ma l 3 years old car from the VW Group with less than 40,000km already massive rusts!!! PS: The paint on my Ibi is otherwise in perfectly maintained condition, which only makes me shake my head.

Hello, I’m going to buy a new car in the foreseeable future. To choose from are Corsa OPC or Ibiza Cupra TDI. I’ve already tried both cars, I was a bit disappointed by Ibiza. I thought that he really did a good job, so he didn’t convince me. I don’t believe that he was a good driver. I can’t decide which car to buy. That’s why a few reviews would be good. When it comes to maintenance, Ibiza is cheaper than Corsa. with the durability of the engines? Looking forward to replying to PS: I deliberately put the topic in the Opel and Seat Forum

Hello! I just registered here, because I have a problem with my Seat Arosa (built in 98)! So it is that with my Arosa (only when the engine is cold and it is cold outside) from 60 km/h there is sometimes a funny howling out of the engine room. It is not always at 60 km/h. Sometimes only at 80 km/h or so… so quite different. Sometimes the noise is only short there, then again a little longer… But as soon as the engine is warmer than 60 degrees, it does not come to m When the noise comes and I go down from the gas and then drive so 5-10 km/h slower, then it is gone and starts 5-10 km/h later again (e.g. I drive 60 and the noise comes… I go down from the gas… at 50-55 the noise is gone and I go back up to the gas…. at 65 it starts again). Sometimes even later… It also doesn’t matter whether I drive in 4th or 5th gear…. My car is standing outside, but sometimes also in the garage… no matter where it stands, the noise comes! I was already in the workshop, but they are not sure either. So far this was done: – V-belts changed – tensioning roller changed – oil change Next, the timing belt is on the alternating list and the 2nd tensioning roller! That’s what I’ve done so far, if the noise is: – down from the gas (noise does not go away directly, but only after 5-10 km/h – down from the gas and directly onto the brake (noise does not go away directly, but only after 5-10 km/h) – ventilation is switched off — > Noise remains – left without ventilation –> Noise comes anyway – radio off –> Noise stays – left without radio off –> Noise comes anyway Now I want to ask if you have already experienced something like this or if you can give me tips on what I could point out to my workshop! lg sonnschein88

Hello, I have the following problem with my SDI Arosa: if I leave the car a few days, the starter spins the engine very slowly when it starts up (the engine still starts just now) I had the same thing in winter at the cold temperatures. But then there were already big problems when starting. If I leave the car a few minutes, then start it again, the starter spins normally. I almost don’t notice every day that the starter is too long. My battery is 2.5 years old. It seems to me that something would unload the battery at rest. However, I have not been screwing around the car for 6 years (Bj.2000). In recent times, only the radio reception is very, very bad.. but also very different… times like this, sometimes like this. Today measured: After more than 40h. car standing time, the voltage of the battery is at rest (cars stand out, everything is off, Door to) measured: 12.18Volt The starter only turns very, very strong. Car 30sec. Run, set,made starter turns normal. After a path of 5km the voltage is at 12.79volt. 30min. later after setting off at 12.58volt. After that I performed the discharge of the consumer at rest: Multimeter set to 10A and read the following: 0.17 after the confuel to the battery and mass. About 5sec. later the consumption fell to 0.07 I checked it several times. What do you say? Is the consumption too high at rest or is the battery broken?