Category: Subaru Forum

My name is Yasin Aldav and I bought myself a beloved subie two weeks ago. Only the subie is new ground for me because of the boxer engine. Here at Motortalk I am still newcomer only a week ago. Now back to the topic. As it is also in the title it clacks, but it is no pleu bearing damage or piston tipper. could it be because of the tilt lever? Can it also be because the engine oil is too thinly liquid (I “drive” 10W40) well the next oil change is due because I wanted to try 10w60. Is that all right ? I got the spark plugs out and they looked like if the car would drive too thin or the heat value would be too low because I drive NGK with heat value 5 are all right or should I rather drive NGK with heat value 6 ? Sorry for these many questions but I want my subie to be very good looking forward to the coming information

Hello dear community, I have been driving my outback since September 2007 and would like to briefly break down the costs for 34x workshop stay in 7.5 years. Maybe it helps someone and can confirm similar or equal expenses. I am already a little frustrated and hope that Subaru will again pay more attention to longevity and quality in the new models … … (not comparable to today’s technology, but my “tank” Legacy BJ 89 was 1x annual for 18 years. ch for inspection, 2x cooler new, 1x new rear shock absorbers new, wear parts such as brake discs and pads new, etc.) Subtotal after 3 years: 1,586,93 € Subtotal after 6 years: 6,373,55 € Subtotal after 7.5 years: 10,939,19 € -> that would be about per year 1,458,56 € -> that would be about per month 121,55 € The appendix summarises the costs incurred in a slightly more detailed way.

I was able to drive the current outback with diesel engine. The whole report with text, picture and video is in my blog: www.autonotizen.de

Hello I have a Proplem that My Termostat does not open, although it is already exchanged.So I have not been able to get a heat cycle for quite some time.Heating works fine.What is defective in the eye view is the tap sensor, but it has nothing to do with the water cycle. Question :Who has already had the same proplem with his Subaru and what can it be. vehicle Subaru Forester built in 1998 122 Ps. with friendly greeting Webcam

Hello Subarufreunde, drive a Legacy Bj. 1995 2,0 GL Automatic and have already completed about 200Tsd km with it without major repairs. My problem since a warehouse change back right about 1 year ago in a workshop (previous Subaru workshop): with fast drive over a free distance of about 20 km a light chirping and the wheel hub and rim got hot. On this track I usually do not need to brake, as it is a highway-like expressway. Excessive braking In order to exclude a possibly not completely free-running brake piston, also the brake caliper was overhauled by the workshop with a rep. set. The zirping was ready, but the wheel hub and rim continued to be hot. Since this can not remain permanent, I pushed the workshop a week ago to completely renew the wheel bearing. The work was carried out, the bearing and the 3 rings were renewed. For safety reasons, it was not possible to find any abrasion (dust and wear). also the handbrake a bit set back. Visually could not be detected at the developed camp also no damage. During my first test drive the same result as before, – hub and rim hot – !! The workshop can not find the reason and thinks that possibly camp and Simmeringe have to enter first !? – I should watch the whole thing. The left wheel hub is also warm, but not hot. Does anyone of you have advice what it might be (otherwise)? For your help bed I awoke in advance. Greeting Kammerstegel

Hello people the following problem where my workshop is getting rid of its hair. I drive a Subaru Legacy 2.0 BE/BH with 190,000 km bj 08/2003 since last year summer the Subaru will be on the highway or under load if you let it Heiss to the red area. It occurs most often (or the heaviest) when it is over 20 degrees and man drives 120 with climate when you drive less remains the Temp. needle and falls quite slowly again. Since we have gas lay the roof t near that the evaporator could be defective, the workshop then took it off the circuit. But the problem was still there. The thermostat was vegetated. Since I had burst the upper cooling hose once, I can also exclude a defect of the display. Furthermore, I exclude it from the ZKD, because I made an oil change this week and there was no water visible. Also the cooling water in the balancing tank is slightly brownish at the bottom, schl The engine is completely dry and does not make any noises. I have a suspicion, can it be that the cooler is defective ?? the workshop says no, since they have never had such a case of a defective cooler before. The cooler does not look bad at all now, but since my air cooler is in front of the engine cooler, and the problem in climate is most severe, I thought that my engine cooler no longer has full power …. if then the climate is still on which my engine cooler then takes the air away he will Heiss ???!!!! Maybe someone had the same problem, I am grateful for everyone’s thought !!!!

I’ve been driving a Suzuki Grand Vitara, 3-door, 94 hp for more than 12 years as my first and only car. As this one will probably not live forever, I’m looking for alternatives. A Suzuki Jimny is unfortunately too small and Toyota Landcruiser in purchase and maintenance much too expensive. With what else I have experience, a Toyota RAV4 Bj 2003 is my father’s, who has a catastrophic transmission translation in the 1st and in reverse According to “Internet” sol l the Forester (petrol, manual gearbox) have a reduction gearbox. Unfortunately, I find on the Subaru homepage not the slightest clue to this. Is that just a rumor? Furthermore, I would be interested in the translation ratios of the individual gears. Unfortunately, I also find no data here. As a third person, I would still be interested in the charging capacity. In my small car I bring without problems a fridge or washing machine into the trunk. s here at the Forester? Greetings Schorsch

Hello together! I’m going to see the new Impreza tomorrow, because I like it very much, compared to the old one anyway. Have a question that I haven’t found an answer to yet. The new one comes first with the 150 hp engine with 2 l displacement. And the STI then directly as 2.5 l with 300 hp. Does anyone know if there is another engine in between? I would like to have a little more than 150 hp, but the STI is so high in the insurance that it already leaves because of that. t. A kind of WRX, as it used to be, with 230 hp, now perhaps with a little more power would be exactly what I’m looking for. Does jmd know if there is already such a thing in Japan or the USA or if one is planned for Germany? I will definitely punch the seller tomorrow and then report here again. Greetze

Hello guys, I have a few questions about Forester. 1. Is it right that next year the next generation of Forester will come to the German market? 2. Are the park pieps that are available at Forester according to the price list dealer retrofits or factory installations? 3. Is the tank display always (independent of the equipment line) executed as a bar chart between the round instruments? Is there a cooling water temperature indicator? 4. What period (kilometer / period) is available? Boxer diesel between inspections. Thank you for your answers. Clive

Hi. I am interested in the Forester – which I want to use 90% in the terrain, partly heavy terrain, for hunting and forestry. Now I wonder how useful the purchase of the X-MODE is. This is only available from the equipment variant XS automatic and costs accordingly. Or do you think the normal four-wheel is just as good? I understood this so that the X-MODE electronically determines which wheel has to be fed with how much drive, for a drive, especially with mud and I don’t have this possibility manually at all and I have concerns not to be able to overcome one or the other mountain, or mud-seams. Do you have experiences or do I understand something wrong?