Category: Seat Altea, Toledo & Exeo Forum

Hello municipality, I hope someone can give me a tip. to the error: for 1 week I have on the failure symbol, so read out, was brake light at the rear right (right because contact was something “Rostig”, contact ground with Dremel+Wirebrürstchen, again everything ok). However, I don’t understand this with the main light at the front left (outfall ONLY left) driving light (permanent light/light horn no light left) Are now new H1 Osram inside ! (both lamps exchanged). Error deleted, worked wi eder, both lamps light up when pressing the main light lever. Car complete, after 1 hour I wanted to shop…. Error again there = main light left does not work !!! So read out again, (same error) deleted and main light works again…hmmm funny. I was then shopping, the ignition again on….Fernlicht again left does not work (lamp for malfunction of the lighting again) The whole thing has been going like this for a week now. Have checked the contacts and also a bit fes The fact is, the new and old H1 bulbs/lamps are all heals (also cross-changed) and also the driving beam itself works until I close the car and about 1 hour do not drive. After 1 hour of standstill (closed) only the left driving beam is no longer working. What could this be about ??? Is there a relay for it or is there a controller/controller somewhere ? Can someone give me a Ra t. With the exception of the main light on the left, everything else works without any objection. I am grateful for every tip

Moin together, in the last few days I wanted to drive again with my car after a long service life. Unfortunately the battery was completely deep discharge and had to be changed for a new one. After the change I re-learned all window lifters. After that everything went perfectly. Just before the finish I wanted to air again and already the writing of the passenger door did not open, otherwise all already. At the mirror fold in there also the mirror did not go in, driver side already un d the passenger door could no longer be locked by the ZV. Otherwise all other doors will close. Unfortunately I found only two fuses on the internet, which are on the fuse carrier and are declared as door control unit. I exchanged them both and no change. In a Gold 4 forum I read about further fuses on the relay carrier and in addition it is talked about with the fuses for my car. Image I attached. Z In addition, I have read about the cable entry in the door and defective door control unit. I wanted to clarify this with the fuses before I start to build everything apart or drive into the workshop.. Thanks for your help! Best regards Robin

I have a problem with my seat exeo st 2.0 tfsi and hope that one of you can help me.. I have a seat exeo st 2.0 tfsi with 211ps build year 2010, and run about 150000km, so with me the mkl and the epc lights yellow, and the engine runs restlessly, but runs normally runs through and also has full power, I now drive about 800km and it does not cause any problems except the uneven engine run…. If someone can help me then please tell me …

Hello, I bought it first, so I can’t say if there is something about day running light. But even on 0 burns before like hi the light, only with stand light it goes off, but the stand light burns. So everything just turns off is out with ignition key. Is there like with Volvo, a small adjusting screw or something, where you can make out with the day driving light (which actually only lights up in front) ? Thank you

Hello together, when I bought my Toledo back then, I unfortunately only got one key to it. For some time now I have been thinking about learning a second key. VCDS is available, and I also have the 5-digit login code. A few days ago I got two new transponders – exactly the same type that is also in my old key (PCF7931 XP/SQ). Now I wanted to try to learn them, but so far I did not have any success at all. The procedure that I perform is as follows: ECU selection – 25 – immobiliser – Login (pin input) – Adjustment. I then adjusted the new keys with the new value, took over everything and followed the order exactly as described in the VCDS guide. Nevertheless, in the end only my original key works – the new keys are not accepted. If I look at “Adaptation”, there is always only one “1”. That means that d the new keys are not taken over. I really tried everything possible and also watched numerous videos on how to learn transponders. Am I doing something wrong? Or is it possibly not possible to learn the new keys? If someone has an idea, I would be very happy about your help.

Hello, I would like to know if you can easily replace the original radio (see picture 001) on the original radio (incl. Navi) ? Purely the exchange of a double DIN radio will be no problem, the plugs and recordings will be the same. Only, the Navi then needs an extra antenna, resp. where are the “clickers” for the mount hidden at the parts. Also I would be interested, which type name of the radio on picture 002 has (to search this used) steering wheel service goes then also plug & play, or does that require a learning at the dealer? Thanks lg Jerry

Hy, would like to take off the front interior light. I tried everything with the dismantling tiles (plastic) from all sides. There’s nothing, and with force I didn’t want. Do you have the instructions for this, think there’s certainly a trick…. At VW. you just click this off, done…here unfortunately no

Hello, I bought the car first (winter vehicle), and I noticed the following problem: You step through the clutch completely and the clutch is separated, ok. If you want to start and leave the clutch off, then you normally have somewhere in the middle, a pressure point that has a few centimeters, until the clutch closes. Here it is now so that if you leave out the completely pierced clutch, about 2cm the clutch already reaches 100%. So pressure point very deep and very short. it so, and can you improve this (set ect.) ? The clutch itself is good, did the 4th gear/handbrake test (died immediately off). For help I am grateful, since I do not know the car at all. Thanks lg JErry

Hello, I drive a Seat Exeo (built in 2010, limousine) and have a problem in which I need your help. As soon as I hit the steering wheel to the stop or very far, I hear a knocking or crunching noise. The noise occurs both while driving slowly and in the stand, so it persists, even if I move the steering wheel in the stand. Important information: Possible causes could be worn or loose track rod heads or ball joints. A defect in the CV joints (drive shafts) could also be responsible for the noise. It is particularly important to me to find out if it is safe to drive around with the car for a few more days, or if the whole thing is a greater safety risk. Does anyone have any experience with it? Thank you in advance for your help! Greeting, siqq

Good day I’m new here and hope someone can help me with Vill. Seat Altea 2 l Diesel 140 hp automatic Year of manufacture 2007 I could buy the vehicle. Now the problem the owner got out of his vacation after two weeks of standstill again in his vehicle and wanted to go normally, put the gear in D position. When he wanted to start driving the gear did not switch in the 2nd or 3 only the 1st remaining in it. Manually he can switch the vehicle completely normal via tiptronics?! what could the Ursa che be ? I’m baffled and don’t dare to get close to it it could be a sensor was told to me I know but I’m not a expert and would be happy to accept your opinions and advice here ?? Thank you very much in advance and hope I have explained myself here correctly.