Category: Seat Arosa & Mii Forum

Hello all, my Mii Mango dissolves after 3.5 years. Engine 3 cylinders, 60 hp. Currently it has the following defects: • air conditioning defective. Maintenance was carried out every year • transmission. reverse gear goes bad. Third gear also • heat plate cracked clatters • window guide passenger side broken. Window wedges up while driving. leaks and driving noise from 100 km/h . • fuel consumption high. 6.7 liters to 100 km. The car has a new car garan until September 2018 Tie. Was already with my dealer. Planned are 2 days workshop. At the window guide he has already announced whether the guarantee will take over. There are people who also had problems with the window guide. So the Ibiza was a top car. The Altea XL 1.6 TDI is now 5 years old. Also to this day no complaints. He has meanwhile 100000 km down. Mfg Volker

Moin, yesterday at my Seat Arosa (2003) I removed the carrying joint at the front left and wanted to change it. I oriented myself to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqmsO66FOH4 The Lupo is identical and it looks the same. In the video you can see very well that the mechanic can move the wheel carrier as it needs. However, with me the wheel carrier pushes down after the removal of the carrying joint and I somehow have to push against the shock absorber andrüc ken. The wheel carrier is now so deep that the cuff of the drive shaft lies on the crossbar, this is also not so in the video. Can you give me some advice? After the video I thought that would be done in half an hour, a maximum of an hour. Monday comes the new part, so I wanted to install it. Greeting PS: If necessary I can still take photos.

Hello experts, I am looking for hints on how I can convince the turn signal in the front right again to the employee. It is about the Mii of my wife, built in 2015. Symtom: The turn signal in the front right doesn’t play along, it just doesn’t light up. Neither with the “normal” blinking, nor with the warning blinking system, nor with the opening or closing of the ZV. Light bulbs and sockets are OK (even though sometimes changed, no improvement). The turn signal in the right back and right at the side flash normally, the control lights and the sound have the usual, hectic frequency, because, yes, a bulb “misses”. Since only the indicator lamp and the “crack generator” (sound) are faster, the external flashers flash in normal rhythm, it is probably in the meantime an electronic control and not a classic flash relay anymore. I slowly get old. When I measure on the plug in front of the engine room, a pin is usually on mass. When blinking it then goes to the rhythm of the other flashers from +12V and in the pause So looks good for me, the other pin seems to always hang in the air, I never measure mass or 12V. I would expect it constantly on mass, then the turn signal would light up safely. So I type on a cable break or defective plug connection “on the way”. Unfortunately, the cable disappears after a few centimeters in the wire harness of the right lamps and then quite quickly through the spray wall towards the interior. Can someone tell me where the Is there something like a “blinker controller” or “light controller”? If so, where is it? Is there a pin assignment? Does anyone even have a small plan from which the circuit diagram or circuit diagram for this part emerge? If I had the counterpart to my plug on the indicator, I could pull it off, test it for passage and (hopefully) also find the cable break, in case of need with a signal injector and a sample. Or even better: Does someone know a known sc hwachstelle, which I should look at every FAll? I am grateful for every hint!

Hello, good day My car battery has emptied itself a few times because of a short circuit. Until I bought a new one, I bridged a few times battery. One time it went back because I unfortunately + and – confused in the dark and since despite a new car battery my self-built Navi/Autoradio no longer goes. I checked all fuses in the car and they were in order… . The car radio gets 14,1 v voltage in idle and 12,8 when it is off… but navi does not work anymore. Then I bought a new car radio and with the new one it runs the same way. But I noticed that with the new under details it stands that it works with dc 12v dc (there is not 12v to 14.4 v) … can it be that it is the reason? Is 14 v voltage on car radio with 7 inch screen with 4x55w output power too much? Or what else can everything have been broken? Thanks in the presus ? Ps The only difference between the two connection lies with the cable tree

Huhu, this morning the Seat didn’t want to start from my treasure, the starter turned happily and I could not find any sign of a weak battery, there was only three weeks ago a new, larger dimension, the previously installed had abandoned the mind, but 1 1/2 worked without any problems. Luckily my car master of trust came quickly long and looked at it, hung the start aid and started with the poor Mii running very rough, but then caught and ran clean. He thought he was probably drunk, but actually he was only 10 days not moved and stood there, we should watch it. Well my question, how then probably the excess gasoline found its way into the combustion chamber and whether we have to think about it, he has a running performance of about 190000 and never had problems, no short distance operation etc. but always constant 15km to work and just so many retour. Errors were not deposited and Marder tracks I also searched in vain. I look forward to your feedback

Dear motor talk community, usually I am just a reader of this website, but today I have for once not found any help to my problem so you can help me. If there is already such a topic, then I ask you to link me. It’s about my Seat Mii with 60ps (automatic) BJ 2015 with about 60t km – 20 tkm are from me. Today I wanted to go and the rear wheel has blocked. Normally only a short squealing (not disturbing) comes when the brakes are wet or very damp, but today the brake was completely fixed (it had about 5°). I tried to drive several times and after about a meter I gave up and called the ÖAMTC/ADAC. This is then also relatively quickly arrived at me and has solved the brake with a metal rod. I asked him then how I can avoid it? And here is the following problem occurred. He has told me that I should not put the hand brake anymore, but the car does not have a park mode and would roll away if I did not put a hand brake on each of the park too long and say to me.

Hello, I have the following facts: With our Arosa, BJ 2002, engine identification letter AUC, the windscreen wiper is constantly running at the front, no matter which step is set. The windscreen wiper is no longer running; only windscreen wiper water is sprayed. After the battery has been disconnected and clamped, the windscreen wiper runs without any rest after a short delay. I changed the relay 19 for another (used) one, then everything went as described above. Is the used relay probably defective or can the error lie somewhere else? Thanks already…

So, here as a separate thread, in the hope that someone can help me further. Since I have placed a used BCM (1S0 937 087 K) in my Seat Mii, this BCM provides wrong errors over the flashing lights at the rear (left + right). If I delete the errors, they come back immediately. The lights themselves work perfectly. The errors themselves would not disturb me, but the flashing LEDs in the instrument cluster + the acoustic signal run twice as fast as normal. That’s annoying already a bit I guess it has something to do with the coding. I have transferred the coding of the old BCM (1S0 937 086 F) as well as possible, but maybe something doesn’t fit anyway. Maybe someone knows this here. Can this possibly be at the value for byte 18? The value 40 is not recognized by VCDS… If someone accidentally installed the same BCM, and sometimes because the coding could be read out, I would be very grateful! Photos of the error codes and the coding for the old BCM!

At the moment I am frustrated by the Arosa, it is unreliable. But from the front…. Arosa 1.4l, AUD, Bj 2003, 5 gear manual gearbox, ABS, climate, servo…. …so with this model “full cabin”… I bought last year, had previously been admitted to an old woman and had massive maintenance jam. New in there are meanwhile alternator, battery, brakes, starter magnet switch, rear wheel bearings. At various places the “copper worm”, electrics is eating in many places. Since Christmas I have stayed several times with the thing because suddenly the onboard voltage collapsed. Thus also earlier on a ride into the neighboring place. Battery voltage was measured before the departure at 13,1V, after about 3 km, briefly the airbag control light went on during the ride, then the tacho unit became dark and the engine went out. ignition on “0”, key pulled, engine hood on, battery voltage measured…. 12,6V. Optical control, everything without finding. Start attempt, car runs again. After that, has a voltage break from the battery.

Moin! My Arosa first started flickering with the LKL, then the LiMa was changed. Lamp flickered further. New battery problem Was gone! After about 2-3 weeks it is now completely escalated. I was just on my way home when suddenly the on-board electronics failed, then only 8,7V were available. Just saved to home and now I stand there and don’t know. Are the coals through after 3 weeks? / Battery after 4 days capped? LiMa from 70AH charging current to 90AH Improved. Battery from 44AH to 65AH Improved. Vehicle: Seat Arosa 6hs BJ: 2004 50 Ps // 1.0MPI Vehicle has a Hi-Fi system that naturally also causes the on-board voltage to fluctuate, which has not caused any problems before. Range 0.1V – 0.5V