Category: Seat Arosa & Mii Forum

Hello dear screwdriver, does anyone know if it is possible. “Really” how to expand the glove compartment of a Mii without destroying half the car or damaging parts of it? I have found a (apparently) usable guide at upde.org, only screws (for the plastic parts) are displayed in the drawings, which really can’t be found in real life. If then 6 of the 9 specified screws have been located and removed, then the hidden 3 screws are still I have to remove the glove compartment because of a defective fan, and I just can’t get any further. I can’t move the glove compartment, or even expand it. I’m going to have to remove the glove compartment because of a defective fan, but I don’t think it’s likely that youtube will be able to do anything.

Hello forum, the topic has been dealt with before, but this doesn’t quite hit my problem. Starting position: Vehicle had to be TÜV and I gave it to the workshop to make some repairs. Among other things, apparently a brake light bulb was defective. Everything was good. Now after a few KM the EPG light lights up in connection with the yellow system light. Didn’t come on at the first moment and then had read out the error. P0571 unplausible signal from the brake pedal switch. I extended the switch (4 pole) and checked for passage when pressing. Although I could not detect any malfunction, I now installed a new one and deleted the error code. This now reports error-free, but now the brake lights are constantly shining, even when the ignition lock is switched off. The switch is installed according to regulations, pin out completely and pedal actuated. Only after pulling the fuse 15 the lights are extinguished. My scarf is checked, none of the three went. tplan is now a bit confusing, it is older and refers to the predecessor model. The fuse 15 is now supposed to get the switching voltage from the ECU. Does the ignition lock possibly still hang in between? Can it be that the ECU is defective? Can it be somehow reset? I am at the end of my Latin right now, but I have to make the box run, my wife belongs. Therefore, would be more than grateful for qualified help.

Moin together, I would like to say in advance that I am not very experienced about cars. I bought a Seat Mii (built in 2014) 1.0 gasoline, 60hp, with 56 thousand KM for 6000 Euro. Now a relative does not want his Citroen C4 (2014) 2.0 diesel with 115hp and 190 thousand KM and offers me to give it to me. I now consider whether I should take the C4 and sell my Seat Mii, optimistically, for 5000 Euro. Although the C4 has v A diesel, which consumes less than 5L, will probably make long distances more pleasant and you only have to roll all 1000KM to the gas station. Of course, the risk is that the engine will give up, that wear will be felt elsewhere or that I will have to spend the money won by the Seat Mii for repair costs in order to drive a Citroen afterwards. What would you advise me to do? Are there any alternative suggestions? Thank you in advance for your answers!

Hello , I have a Seat Mii I-tech Built 12/2014. 1.0 60hp Last Friday I noticed the cigarette lighter, rear wiper and seat heater no longer work. Maybe only the fuse , but I can’t imagine it all hanging on a fuse. I hope you can help me and maybe tell me which fuse(s) are eligible for it. The times when the occupancy is in the lid and even the pliers are still in place to pull the fuse j a unfortunately passed.

Hello, At the moment I have the problem with my girlfriend’s car that the EPC lamp is on. According to VAG Tester it should be the brake light switch (brake light switch implausible signal static). The brake lights functioned normally, but I changed the switch then, unfortunately unsuccessful. Hardly from the yard already the EPC lamp is on again. Have now also checked the fuses and checked for passage, everything ok. What makes me now only stubborn, that if I the fuse z It’s supposed to be SB15 according to the safety plan. Only then I don’t understand why the brake lights go without a fuse. Maybe someone can help me further. Data about the car Seat Arosa Bj. 2001 MKB AUD 1.4l I installed the new switch in the resting position of the pedal.

Hello Forum, I’ll make it short. I bought an Arosa for my son. Test drive was short and funny, car found for Funny, bought for Sonnemann. Now it turns out, in warm condition the thing rumbles in idle. Determined, no combustion in the 4th cylinder. Quite much read from distributor fingers to camshaft. I am the way of the cheapest resistance and have bought new candles, cables, distributor cap and fingers. Everything without change. Then dug a bit deeper, wanted the cup plunger, and found the following “nock” on the 4th cylinder. See picture. My question. is that enough to greatly affect the idleness? I stopped further investigation. For the time being. When the part is completely over, no problem, there are enough sets out there with cups and seals etc. What is your assessment about this ? (Is this the outlet Nocke? ) Is around the Arosa 6H 1999 1.0 liters with say and write 232000 KM on it. Yes, of course the much, abe r, 2 years Tüv and demonstrably before 2000km new head seal, ZR, etc.

My Arosa 1.4 16v Built 2002 AUB (import from Italy according to the previous owner) is constantly causing problems and this time it is the Lambda probe again. I had only bought the car last October and had to screw it a lot already… Was not a happy purchase, because so some information was transmitted to me wrongly. Well, before I got the car, the seller had to change the Lambda probe, because it was not a happy purchase, because I had to change the Lambda probe. I had been looking for a long time and ordered a new one. Unfortunately, I had not seen that there was no plug with this one (nights over the phone ordered ^^). Now I wanted to install this one today and had to first find out that 1. the plug to which the probe is connected is 6 pole and 6 cable dr n are 2. the new probe has only 4 poles (purchased via the shop https://www.motointegrator.de/…/…onde-calorstat-by-vernet-ls040055) 3. the (old) probe was 5 pole (3 months old) Now my question is: Now that I’m an absolute beginner on the whole topic, would I like to know how to connect the whole thing properly? Can it be that the previous owner (gave several and the last one couldn’t really tell me much about the car) just plugged in a completely wrong plug and therefore there were always mistakes with the Lambda probe? Add a few pictures and maybe there is a fox here who can help me… Greetings from the Oberberg

Hello dear forum … Thank you for the possibility of exchange here. I have the following problem and I am in despair shortly before. I have a Seat Arosa 1.0 / 127000 km down for about 4 weeks and if I drive longer time (over 30 min.) lights up the oil lamp, red with warning tone . Always for 5 sec. Then it goes out again. When I got the car, I immediately made an oil change. The car had previously 5W30 … I changed to 10 W40. Can the problem be because of it? .. . The oil consumption is currently very heavy … I always have to refill one litre after about 500 km. Is that normal? The car also does not lose any oil … so no stains on the ground … Where is the whole oil going? The workshop now wants to replace the oil pressure sensor , but can also not make sure that it is because! Does anyone have an identical or similar problem …? Can the car eat more oil if the oil pressure meter is defective? I thank you already for every answer and nice love greetings! Nina the following has already been done at the car… – Oil change – V-belts – Ignition coil

Hello all, my Mii Mango dissolves after 3.5 years. Engine 3 cylinders, 60 hp. Currently it has the following defects: • air conditioning defective. Maintenance was carried out every year • transmission. reverse gear goes bad. Third gear also • heat plate cracked clatters • window guide passenger side broken. Window wedges up while driving. leaks and driving noise from 100 km/h . • fuel consumption high. 6.7 liters to 100 km. The car has a new car garan until September 2018 Tie. Was already with my dealer. Planned are 2 days workshop. At the window guide he has already announced whether the guarantee will take over. There are people who also had problems with the window guide. So the Ibiza was a top car. The Altea XL 1.6 TDI is now 5 years old. Also to this day no complaints. He has meanwhile 100000 km down. Mfg Volker

Moin, yesterday at my Seat Arosa (2003) I removed the carrying joint at the front left and wanted to change it. I oriented myself to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqmsO66FOH4 The Lupo is identical and it looks the same. In the video you can see very well that the mechanic can move the wheel carrier as it needs. However, with me the wheel carrier pushes down after the removal of the carrying joint and I somehow have to push against the shock absorber andrüc ken. The wheel carrier is now so deep that the cuff of the drive shaft lies on the crossbar, this is also not so in the video. Can you give me some advice? After the video I thought that would be done in half an hour, a maximum of an hour. Monday comes the new part, so I wanted to install it. Greeting PS: If necessary I can still take photos.