Category: Seat Arosa & Mii Forum

I bought a second car for my wife. Yes, really, she now has two cars: the station wagon, which also serves as a dog transporter and now additionally a Mii, which is supposed to serve for the work path. At her new workplace she gets a parking space, but the parking garage is old and tight – there is a small or small car simply the better choice. To the Mii I have a question: Until when was the Mii with petrol engine actually built? According to the vehicle papers he would have to come from the model year 2019. However, the first registration was in June 2020. Stand the car after the production eternally on halt or did there possibly for the 2020 produced copies simply no newer marking? I would like to clarify this. I searched for and searched for it, but did not find a VIN decoder, which could answer my questions. Sure, VIN decoder can be found without end, but these are pure advertising pages, which I want to know like “Hat an accident?” or “Waited at …” last. Since it can be a consistently stacked firsthand vehicle, I don’t need to know the history.

Together, someone knows if it is possible to retrofit the interval controller for the front windscreen wiper at Seat Mii? So, this multi-stage controller on the right steering stick lever, for the wiper frequency in interval mode. As I want to upgrade to my Mii GRA+MFA (Thread), I have to change the steering stick lever anyway and move additional wires to the BCM. The opportunity would be favorable. It is of course necessary that the BCM in the Mii/Up can read out the poti on the controller, so that the corresponding input is available and equipped. Another question is whether there is the right steering stick lever with the functions (MFA keys + interval controller) for the Mii/Up at all… The 1K0 953 519 J looks at least superficially as if it could fit.

Hi together, my mother has been with the Seat Mii for a year. Should be built in 2019 or 2020, the documents have just not been there. I have neglected a bit of inspection and oil change. Would you like to do this now via a free workshop. Should I continue to follow the specifications of the manufacturer? Where can I find them? Would you like me if you could give me a tip. Thank you very much! David

Hello! Have an Arosa 6HS with 1.4l AUD engine. This engine has 2 Lamda probes, once at the cracker before the first CAT, the second after the second CAT. In what way does the engine control work? I could imagine the engine control unit measuring the injection amount make the value of the first Lamda probe and with the 2nd test the effect of the CAT. In addition, the next question, where is the second Lamda probe plugged in? Greetings Sepp

Hello! I am still at the Arosa 6HS in troubleshooting and repairing. Saturday I have renewed the wheel speed sensor indicated by the VCDS at the front right, ABS works…. …but it rumbles at every braking just before standing. My guess is, the ABS sensor ring is damaged and gives uneven impulses. Can you replace this ring? Greetings Sepp

On the history of my Mii passenger compartment blower : it had already given up completely last summer, then to function again reliably 3 weeks later. Now it is out of function again. I am fully aware that there are hundreds of amounts here and there on this topic. But the problem with my Mii has its peculiarities. Here my previous measurement results : – blower does not work, neither on level 1, 2, 3 or 4, no noises (neither before nor now) – affected S thorax (30A) : viewed OK, measured OK, nevertheless exchanged (without success) – glove compartment removed to approach the pre-resistance – voltage on the connector of the resistance OK, individual resistors in the part OK, – thermal protection is NOT burned – blower switch in the dashboard checked : switches the voltage on/off on the specified connector : OK – voltage measured on the connector of the blower : 11,4V (while the voltage of the battery =12,3V) the switch was on Stu What is left of it? Must it be the blower. Contrary to this, the internal resistance of the fan is usable 15 ohms. In case of a defective blower I would expect more than 0 ohms, or more Meg ohms. I think a little bit of the ideas go out. Is there a problem, what can not be detected with these controls and measurements? Since I have no usable current flow plan, I can’t get any further.

Good evening together I haven’t been active for a while, but now I’m a bit desperate and need some support. My daughter bought a Seat Arosa 1.4 automatic with 60Ps from 1998. Now the little one is in the workshop to change gear oil and the transmission oil tank is costed by. The problem is now, the workshop can’t find a new oil tank itself VW can’t help. Do you have an idea or can you give me a supplier? Car’s really fucked up here.

Hello dear community, No improvement, same error picture. Still misignition of Zyl. 3. Then I switched the injection nozzles between Zyl 3&4 among each other. I cleaned the throttle cap a bit. After that I turned a short lap. Same error message and no change of the error picture. So I parked the car again yesterday. Now the car hardly started this morning and ran even more unroundly than it was before. The car only stopped. Does anyone have any idea what all the fun can be about? Stuttering this morning could probably be due to the gaskets of the injection nozzles that didn’t like the one and the mounting, but what about the error message? What else could I check?

Dear forum for nice holidays 🙂 So I have the following problem. I bought a Seat Arosa year 2003 with the 1.0 engine gasoline & with a mileage of 167,000km. Before that the seller told me that he runs in the stand restlessly. When I visited the car the seller told me the ignition cable, ignition transformer and spark plugs were changed and he still runs restlessly in the stand. He Ruckelt rather I would say, speed is at about 600-650. MKL is also on and many Sometimes it flashes in front of itself and afterwards it shines again continuously. But if you drive with the vehicle or accelerates you can notice nothing of power loss! I know it, because I had the same Arosa with the 1.0 engine a few weeks ago ! In addition I noticed if you turn on ventilation dipped light the speed runs a little higher and the engine runs quieter! throttle valve I have already looked at, as good as clean, no deposits to recognize superficially ( also what I have tested so far is when I take out the ignition cables from the cylinder 2 and 3 the engine runs just as restless as before. I also saw that the electric sparks are there so it ignites (had unfortunately also got an electric blow off). But as soon as I take off the ignition cables the engine goes off. I have of course looked at the ignition transformer and ignition cables properly they really seem to be like new! I couldn’t test spark plugs because I lacked the necessary tool to expand them. Now since you asked, what can it be? I took another picture of engine with it.

Moin, I have written here something to my seat arosa (1,4 16v 100 hp AQQ bj 2000) When the car is warm it goes out immediately in the empty run.. I mean to have located the problem now but urgently need help. The underpressure system of the car is not right at the front and at the back (pressure converter for abgsd regulation goes just both to the I say abgeschworung) in the end the previous owner has connected all the ones he has found. a hose behind the spray wall and in the original wire harness just under the control unit the hose does not go to the control unit?! I have been looking for hours now for a decent drawing of the u-pressure system so that I can start to bend the part again.. Can someone please help me!