Category: Seat Leon Forum

Hey together, I bought a Seat Leon 5F ST FR (FL) with the 184 hp diesel and DSG. My question is now what a healthy permanent load on the highway is without too much effort and to destroy it. Could I drive for example with 180km/h without problems 700km far ?

Hello dear FAN – municipality. Use your help or your experience! The following conditions: Leon ST Cupra 5F – first registration 01.04.2015 (day registration/exhibitor) Date of purchase 01.06.2015 2 questions to you: 1. Onboard computer showed me 30 days ago: “Oil change in 30 days”. According to my knowledge first oil change after a year or 20,000 km. My km stand: 4600!!! So: neither the year is full nor the 20,000 km and that at LongLife oil!!! I called the workshop. It was there today. There would be no mistake. Could be because I drive extremely short distance / Cupra mode. Drive the car but normal (first time in). So it would have to be changed oil and filter to get factory warranty. Then asked politely if I would drive to the Nordschleife in the summer, if he would have to change oil every 1000 km!!! That can’t be possible! 8 months and (as of today) 5400 km … and this with Longlife Oil! What can you tell me, or when did the model show you the first oil change/filter? 2. The bill! 58.60 € Wage – 5.7 L LongLife Oil – Filter = 258 € After what I read, 182 € to 210 €. What did you pay for the first oil change with filter? The same or did I end up in a “Hugo Boss” luxury workshop? I would be very pleased about your answers or experiences!!! Greeting Guido

Hello everybody, does anyone have the part no. of the oil drain screw from 1.8 TSI? Bzw. Information on this? My screws have a washer that cannot be removed. It is magnetic, therefore not made of aluminium. Do you have to use a separate seal here? You always read different things about it. Maybe someone can provide information here. Thank you very much.

Hi, I am currently interested in a Golf GTD next car. Logically, the Leon with FR with the same engine is also interesting. Do you know how the main differences with regard to equipment and extras are with the two models? If I have read this correctly, the Golf has: – Sound actuator – Black roof sky – Sports seats with more side stop – From Facelift dynamic turn signals Are there any other important differences? This is what the Seat should have, isn’t it? The sound insulation of the GTD is supposed to be better, which would surprise me, though. Write down what you might think.

Hi guys, unfortunately I find very little about my problem. If I find something it reflects the problem even in share again therefore I try to give here some very precise information about it. I know remote maintenance is always such a topic therefore I also have my car checked when changing wheels to find the problem. So I try to describe what happens. First of all the problem occurs only if the car has been standing longer (midday – morning next day). So ic h start the car normally, the speed is slightly increased, which is normal in the cold start, but it does not fluctuate or is uneasy exactly like the audible motor run is very even and in my ears. But when starting, whether back or in the 1st course it starts to jerk/bog so at some point between 9-12 km/h (observed). The speed remains when coupling in but over 1200 rpm as soon as I have then coupled it behaves to accelerate normally no noticeable ruckel n, of course I don’t give full gas in the cold condition but the normal acceleration goes without problems. If the engine is at operating temperature this problem no longer occurs. So only start at the cold start. I thought it was connected with the weather but this phenomenon does not occur every day. There were weeks there it was really bad, then again completely away and so on. I drive the car now for two years and only in this winter the problem has surfaced at some point t. In my memory after an emergency braking I had to do if that helps. The mileage of the car is 38 tkm and I am the first and only driver of the car, only V-Power 100 octan is fueled at always the same gas station (already crazy if I read it myself, well habit animal ) My driving profile is a lot of highway 30 km x2 a day (work back and forth). Then still leisure rides, but short distances I put back on foot my car is not made for 2 km. I h from already my own abilities doubted which makes little sense because my switching behavior does not change in the warm condition of the car. If something arises from the workshop I will of course update the topic for all who are interested or affected by it. Besides, you can live with the problem quite well because it occurs only 1-2 times and then is good for the first time.

Hello dear Leon municipality, I bought a Seat Leon Cupra 300 in January for 33000 Eurons with 15 km of daily admission. The good piece would be after 4 years of running completely and even mine. Now, of course, that’s how many people say one should repell such cars (so in general all those in the “Class” of the Cupras so 2L 300 PS cars ) at some point again. Be it because of possible problems after the warranty (motor, gearbox, turbo and much more) and also because of the value reliability My plan was to sell the car just before the end of the 4 years of financing itself. However, I have heard and read that it would be advantageous to sell it before reaching the 40tkm brand all about it would be financially unchalant. I had looked on the internet for how much so people offer the car and thought jo for 20000 thousand euros people offer the cars with 70tkm to 80tkm, well then the value loss is quite ok. Many say however: yes the offers si And so nobody does it. That’s why the question arises from when should I reject it, so with what mileage I will get rid of it well again or get it sold worth 15k to 20k. I thought then 70tkm to 80tkm would be inside, but apparently it’s not like that. I hope some can help me further and share their experience or opinion on what would be the smartest.

Hello, at the moment I’m looking for a new car, since I have the Seat Leon ST FR 1.5 TSI with 130 hp in mind for a long time the previous choice would fall on him. Of course I would bring my current Golf VI 1.4 back to the man. If a rather cheap reimport new car offer for 22,000 € with the equipment I would like to have. With the list price is almost 32,000 €. Delivery time would be set at 4 – 5 months. The Seat dealers come close Unfortunately only with difficulty down to 25.000€. Now to my question would you recommend me the purchase or should I still wait for the new Leon IV ST? Thank you already in advance for the advice MfG Korbi234

Servus, have since the end of Feb. 19 my Leon ST FR 1.4 110KW. Have for a long time the feeling that partly the tank content does not match the tank indicator. Yesterday I refueled 23l and the tank indicator showed before the tanking 3/4 full. With a 50l tank that does not fit!! The emptyer the tank however the better fits the tank content to the tank indicator!?! The residual range in the BC seems to be consistent however. Last 500km driven, tank indicator at 1/2 full and residual range BC 290km! ?! Is that normal with Leon? With my previous exeo, this fit in about and also with the previous vehicles I do not know such a behavior of the tank indicator.

Moin, I have often read in forums, but never thought that I will register myself. Therefore, a hello to everyone. I am in the following situation: Currently I drive a Seat Leon 5f FR 2.0 TDI with 237hp. A few weeks ago someone drove me into the rear bumper and of course committed driving flight.. Now I have the opportunity to buy a finished painted Cupra 280 bumper and AGA for a good price. (comes to me even cheaper than repainting the bumper). But now I have only one problem. Is it possible to register something like this? What difficulties can this cause? LG Mex

Hello, have a problem with our Leon 5F BJ 2016. For 3 days now, where it is a little colder, the windshield freezes from the inside. It is a real ice layer on it in the morning, where small pieces of ice fall on the amaturating board and water beads run down the disc. Already last year and in the autumn it was observed that small water drops on the top of the disc, mostly around the mirror region small drips However, the workshop did it with moisture in the car. Dangers the car becomes daily 2x30km, climate always runs along. Bringing away and fetching the two kids stand on the way back morning and evening due to the strap-on of the kids the doors also longer open so that also the moister warm air can out. In the car is also always a dehumidifier, rubber floor mats are used which are dry and the designed newspaper under the mats / in the footroom is also absolutely troc I couldn’t see any water break-in. I don’t type on moisture in the car like the workshop, there should be several or all the windows covered / icy or ? It only affects the windshield, the others don’t even run on. Also hang some pictures, the one just at defrost and the other around prime condition, there is also to see that all other windows are clear. As already mentioned fog don’t even the other windows, even when I took the photo the inside and squatted in the car for a few minutes. Maybe one or the other has an idea what it might be about or what I could change in my ventilation behavior??? Workshop does not stir a finger dran because supposedly only moisture is inside. VG Stefan