Category: Suzuki Forum

Suzuki Samurai 1000 (1991) engine capacity: 969cm3 power: 27.50 kWh engine type: F10A The off-road vehicle of my grandfather stood untouched for about 20 years in a weather-protected garage. I have planned to bring the Youngtimer back to the front. To date I have performed the following service work: – Timing belt replaced – V-belt replaced – Spark plug replaced – Petrol filter replaced – Oil filter replaced – Some hoses of the fuel system replaced Unfortunately, I am currently confronted with the following problem: The engine starts and turns at a high speed for a short time when the accelerator pedal is activated, but then dies again. Starting again is usually impossible for a long time (about 30 min). I suspect a problem with the fuel supply. Does anyone know such behaviour? Unfortunately, I can’t get any further. I am very grateful for all tips/ideas.

Hello, yesterday the exhaust ratcheted. Now today during the lunch break I quickly gucked and saw this (see appendix) The rubber was still hanging on the bracket but the steel bolt is stopped from the exhaust boiler (?) . So right in front of the tub / boiler. Now I have an appointment tomorrow at a workshop. They said that only from Friday again what is but I have now tomorrow and the day after tomorrow free and after night shift. So is unfavorable and I would like to fix it. t. The exhaust is still tight and does not wobble. I took off the rubber and put the steel / iron in citric acid and leave it there overnight. Would try to remove the rust as well tomorrow. The question: Is this still possible? Can you weld it again? How expensive would it be? If it wasn’t possible, with how many rakes can I use? I don’t have an appointment tomorrow, I should leave the car tomorrow at around 8 and the calls if they made it in between fast. tomorrow before asking me what it costs me if you put it on or just take a new part. He already said on the phone that he will not get an original for my car. So helpful would be such a pricey frame in which such a repair moves. If he should say that costs 200€ and you tell me that this goes with 50€ then I drive again and make first steel band around it until I get appointment. LG

Moin, I’m looking for tips for buying a used car for a reliable Vitara or Grand Vitara, starting in 2019, preferably with gasoline engine from Suzuki’s own development. Listen and read only good about the 1.0 Booster Jet engine but no idea where it will be built (India, Italy, Japan ?) Thank you for your help ! MfG, Holger

Hello! I’m still going crazy… My Ignis vibrates if you drive about 100 km/h fast. Of course, the car vibrates even if you drive faster, from 120 km/h it gets very uncomfortable and does not work even faster… There are new brakes in it, brand new wheels (tires) and the workshop has found nothing. What can that be?? Have the car been driving for 1.5 years and have so far rarely driven the highway, so I got this vibration quite late. First it was: new E tires. OK, they’re on it. Then it was called: new brakes Ok, said, done… Again with zero success. I don’t know any more… I took the “fun” yesterday and drove on the highway. Wanted to know if it might slow down at higher speeds. No, it doesn’t! At Tempo 140 it shook me so much that I went off the gas again. Does anyone know this here??? Thanks already for helpful answers! Gruss Jo

The ventilation runs only on 4, is of course annoying (loud) and in the weather it is with the air conditioning, later with the heating quite annoying! I already know, pre-resistance or thermal protection! Now my question: Where is the plug with the resistors and the thermal protection? Have already removed the glove compartment box, but unfortunately I did not find it. The interior filter is ok, I changed only in winter, seems to me like everything very installed and working in the narrowest room is also not so sparkling at my age! Now please my question: Where is the plug with the resistors and the thermal protection? On the passenger side or the driver side? Can one recognize the plug? (cable white / blue)? Is there a trick? Have the model with the climate (or did all the splash)? Thank you for tips!

Hello, my SpaceWagon R (Bj. 2000) has a problem after a marten bite with the 15 ampere fuse for the two ignition coils. On this fuse seems to be even more connected, because if it has burned through, then the valve lighting does not work either. If I put in a new 15 ampere fuse, then everything works as desired at first. But then after 50Km or even only after 11Km it burns out “out of the blue” again through } engine. I want all the above the 15 ampere fuse operated consumers, whose supply check. A circuit diagram or an info which consumers and wires I can not check. Can someone please give me an info or also send me a circuit diagram (current and consumer after the 15 A fuse)? I am grateful for any help or info.

Hello in the round, we have a Samurai Bj 1992 with 145000km. At times the engine does not run perfectly, as if it would only run on 3 cylinders. Before I let the Greeks over my sanctuary over it (it is used on an island in Greece) I wanted to go into the round questions what that can be, it is already clear to me that it is difficult from a distance, but it is worth a try 🙂 The first time I noticed it in the “winter”, he went the first 500 meters as if it were only 3 cylinders in operation. At that time I thought it was because it is cold. About 2 months ago the problem was on the 20 km and was gone at once. After that I gave new candles, cleaned the distributor cap and the distributor finger. After that it was actually quiet, until after a month the same happened again, but only a few minutes. When it is cold, it starts great, hardly I had turned the key, brum, purrs already. Hardly it is a bit warmer, it takes about 2-3 seconds. n before the engine starts and it doesn’t run as nicely round as when it is cold. 1.) I noticed a rubber part in the carburetor, whatever that is, is damaged, can this be related to it, or what function does this part have. See photo “Gummi2” 2.) Should or must one renew the distributor finger/cap after 140 000 km? Suppose he doesn’t have any interrupters, that I also have to change them, right? Thanks already for the help

Hello guys, I have a question… .. I have seen so’n sweet samurai, which is built in 1990 , and has until Aug.07 TÜV , is probably the model with G-Kat at least that is the one with 69 hp , So far I know this model with 69 hp the one with G-Kat. The car is ready to drive but probably has some Macke on the gearbox, because it gives “running noise” during the ride of itself. Tires and cover are OK. Otherwise he does not have the huge equipment “Blanke series”… except the normal “R” amme” in front of the radiator. The vehicle has samurai-standard rust, which should also mean… but has TÜV, and the car is repairable with ladder frame despite high rust susceptibility… The “knuffy” car is to cost 1000 EURO. My honor according to the cute four-wheelers are very popular, as already mentioned by me here in the MOTORTALK… and there are already worse vehicles from the house SUZUKI for higher amounts “passed over’n table” Nevertheless, I am grateful for your opinion… ka nn be that I am in the “wrong movie”… or you have more experiences with the sushi jeep.Thank you already in advance. Will be a great help to me

Hello! I had the opportunity to try a brand new Swift 1600 sport on Saturday! I have to say that it can actually be driven quite well! Good sporty/comfortable suspension, direct precise steering, proper workmanship with very extensive standard equipment! The only thing I didn’t really like are the driving performance! I drive an old 190E with 122hp and that is feeling much more splashy! In the 3rd and 4th gears it pushes me right into the seats which is the case with the Swift only in the 1th and 2nd! My 190E is almost 1200kg heavy, so something more like the Swift and almost equally strongly motorized! I am not 20 anymore and have already my 15th car but I think I am not wrong! I imagined a small modern sports car more! What do you say about it?

Hello dear Suzuki fans I’m about to get a picture of the new Suzuki Grand Vitara. I move from the approx.10’000-12’000Km in 2000km to the 1.6-ton caravan and wonder if I should buy the automatic 2.0l 140hp or the hand-operated same engine. Otherwise only Kurtzverkehr or daily 40km is driven to work. It should be remembered that I drive the Alps in train operation and I don’t like to go with the reduced gears at 40km/h columns. Thank you for your opinions. Greetings Pittisan