Category: Toyota Forum

Hello, my father has a Land Cruiser J7-1HZ from 1994, 4.2L diesel, and for a few days now the lighter doesn’t want to start, from one day to the other… Apparently the current from the battery does not arrive, although there are 2 batteries (converted to 24V), and they are fully charged. It doesn’t work at all, light, radio, light, etc. All cables and connectors “look ok”. (I had about the same problem on my car, diag; – cable from battery was broken.) My question; has one of you already had this kind of problem? or would a good mechanic have an idea of what that might be? thank me in advance and sorry for my writing mistakes.

The year is slowly coming to an end, it’s time to raise the winter tires again. We hope you’ve come through the year with your mobile kit so far! And to find out if that’s the case, we want to start a small survey again in 2011. As every year, the manufacturers have done a lot to interest us drivers in their products and services and to satisfy their customers. But: How satisfied were you with your car completely subjectively ? Or with the service that every car needs every now and then? So: How was it, your personal car year 2011? Since most manufacturers not only regularly read MOTOR-TALK, but are also in contact with us, we will go with the survey results as well as your praise and criticism in the comments aimed at the manufacturers. Therefore, in the comments, write what you liked about Toyota in general and your Toyota in particular in 2011, what is even better and what is more wasn’t so dazzling!

Once again I have to turn to your concentrated knowledge mens !! DO NOT ENJOY !!! 😉 The following facts: Toyota Auris with D4D Diesel 177PS Year of manufacture 2007 at Toyota has had a known problem now in it !! My question to you. Does one of you have experience with Chip Tuning ?!?!??? Would you like to tickle more power out of the machine !! What do you say ? Is there something feasible ? If yes how much more lead ? How much more charge ? Consumption afterwards ?? Hope the You can continue to help me. Greetings to all of you 😉

Hello, guys. I have a problem with my ACR3-Previa, year 2001 with the double-climate. 14 months ago I bought it?/she?(the/previa)? The climate cooled at the front modestly with. Nothing cooled down at the back! I only now understood that with the double-climate, 2 evaporators are installed and it cools both front and rear climate. So! Now came the winter 10/11, and 4 weeks ago the first time turned on, it ran no more! Pressure switch says: “You, Compresso r, you, now no more running!! Because, nothing more coolant in it”!!!!! Say: Pressure test was 0, no more pressure there, climate empty! A pressure test today has revealed that the climate is really leaking, but we could not find where!? It is also very installed, the Previa2! It is not easy to get to all the weak points. The capacitor looks a bit “finished” at the front, but did not really show a leak during the leak search (but as I said: you get hard, without Now my question: Does anyone have a previa2 with a double climate, with about 8-10 years of age, in which the climate did not work anymore?? What was the reason?? Mainly it’s about the cost question. Just to get to the rear evaporator, you have to reduce the rear right interior covering. The whole thing is an enormous effort and the examination alone is associated with immense costs. Ne pre-information would be very helpful. Greeting: Willie Willie is ge rade online Rate this post by Willie Report Post Edit/Delete

@ all, have changed my shock absorbers, Stabilager, couplers back two years ago. They have now about 10,000km behind them. I have now found on the WE that it cracks back right. As if a screw has light play. It was now very warm on the WE and I had these cracks back right. Today we have it cooler and see there, NO cracking noises back right. Heck also pressed in with hand. What can that be now??? Normally the shock absorbers do well Noise, if it is colder. But now I had this noise with the heat at the past WE. Control view did not result anything further. So could not notice much. The entire wheel suspension (rubber bearings) etc. make a healthy impression. Have had someone press back and put me under with flashlight. I checked also once all the coupling rods with stabilizer and what else goes on the rear wheel on fixed seat. In my opinion everything is ok. As I said, the noise occurs in heat, at the rear right, when the rear is already pressed in and when driving. It is the highest position at the upper height of the wheel. Shock absorbers do not oil. Folding bellows sit over it. Feather dome visual inspection. Does it seem OK. I put my hand on the rear wheel and someone presses the rear slightly I feel the noise at the hand. So it is transferred well on the wheel. Does anyone have an idea? Drum brake plus brake pads everything NEW. Last week self-insert ebaut. The DEKRA brake dynamometer is all right. I also released the hand brake once, cracking was nevertheless. That can be something if it gets warmer again soon. So, am open to any suggestion. Greetings Che05

Hello! For more than 2 weeks we have been thinking about buying a car for our small family (two adults, one small child, one dog). Of course, we need a car with enough space if you are going on holiday, but most of the time the car is driven in the city; so not all should be too big. After a long thought we decided to go for Yaris verso, but it has unfortunately been sold (which we wanted). Too long thought. Too long thought. Too bad. After a few days thought We, a combination would be more practical, especially for the dog. After long discussions (we are somewhat limited in the budget) we ended up with two cars that were available. These are: *Toyota Corolla Combi 1.6; 71000 km, 81 kW (110 hp), EZ: 07/02, petrol , 13000,- *VW Bora Variant 1.6; about 45000 km, 77 kW(105 hp), EZ: 09/02, petrol, 11500,- Now you leave here in the forum a lot about the quality of German and Japanese automobiles. The opinions differ so that we now still m We need a reliable car, because we don’t necessarily have hundreds of euros each month to pay for repairs. If you have a child, a car is very advantageous. But what? Does anyone have experiences and can give us some tips? You leave, Japanese cars are no longer the old ones and also have their quirks. However, Golf IV is also criticized at ADAC. Would be nice if one of you answers us, then the decision is easier for us… Dan No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.

Hello everybody, good day on all sides. I’ve been the owner of a RAV4 BJ 2003 for about a year. Now he’s at the dealer’s and is supposed to cost 1000 (thousand) Eur for the first Tüv times so that he should come over with just 47000 km. Among other things, the front brake discs are worn out. Is the normal (It’s the 2 liter automatic version with 5 doors and little used AHK) (I took over the car from my father at 37000 km and he is very careful and front I wanted to pick up the car right away. I wanted to know if there is a forum just as fast as my Yamaha FZR. So now I would like to thank you very much for all the turbo-responses Many greetings from Düsseldorf mipa

Hello, our thread ”Japanese and Korean car companies” is threatening to derail….http://www.motor-talk.de/showthread.php?… I’m going to open a new one… Question: Do the Japanese still have a head start over the Koreans?? what’s the point of a Japanese and what kind of Korean…? . Greetings Andy

Hello guys and girls! I’m looking for a new (used) car and I like the Avensis quite well. Was just on the Toyota homepage and I read it once. Now I know what is good about the car but not what Macks it has. So, dear Avensis drivers: What problems did you have with yours so far? What don’t you like about the Avensis? (Beauty mistake….) Thanks Stegi

Inspection at a Toyota workshop: tried intentional damage to property??? I delivered my Corolla for an inspection at a Toyota workshop and delivered at the same time 6 liters of oil for the oil change. The first time after the inspection an oil level of 1/2 liters was filled over maximum and I had to drive again to the specialist workshop to correct the oil level. In the second inspection was equal to 1 liters of oil too much in the engine. My wife was in the decrease of the In front of my wife’s eyes the oil level was checked again and she was told that “everything is fine”! On Sunday noon I had to go with the car on a ride and drive 500 km on the highway. Before that I checked the oil level and found that the track rod shows 2 cm over Max oil level. I had to then on Sunday afternoon with a hose the too much After a few days I came back. My complaint to the dealer with a detailed description of the situation was decided that the oil spill bar cannot be read out exactly. Therefore, I would like to contact Toyota Germany with the problem. ….I should come to the Toyota dealer again to check the oil level again. That was unnecessary, because the oil level was put right by me. Then I turned to the Toyota dealer, so that I could check the oil level again. I was told by Toyota Germany that I would have been contacted by the dealer. I would have refused to check the oil level at the specialist company. Therefore, my complaint could now be “not exactly understood”. Could one call the action of the “Toyota workshop” attempted intentional damage to property??? If I had moved the car with one litre of oil in the engine 500 km on the highway, in trust of a correct work of the Toyota factory tt, the engine would probably be an oil sardine now. What particularly annoys me is the arrogant way I’m sold at Toyota as a customer for stupid. Anyway, my trust in Toyota has dropped significantly.