Hello, wanted to know if there are more people with defective ignition keys, I have a Toyota Corolla Built.1999 there is after some time the first key broken now is the second also defective, the part costs at Toyota 80€ !!!
Category: Toyota Forum
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? Customer Services and Oil Change – Courance
Hello and good day, our Yeti is now over 6 years old. The 5-year warranty has expired and there was no warranty case. The Yeti, 105 hp, DSG, petroler, now has 20,000 km on the speedometer. Does it bring something in the long term, at 4,000 km of mileage, to always change the oil and to renew the brake fluid regularly? An inspection he now also wants to have, according to the display. Like Kulant, with a possible later repairs, is Skoda, if the defective parts kulanzfahi A friend always thinks that only when something is broken will it be repaired – he has 4 Golf 4 petrolers in the family to take care of. How do you manage this, e.g. after 6 years? Thanks for tips. Greetings
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Skoda Rapid Spaceback
Hello together, I need your help and hope that I can get it repaired myself without a visit to the workshop. My wife’s trunk lighting no longer works. I’ve already changed the bulb, but it didn’t work. In addition, the car closes even though the trunk is open. The display does not show the open trunk. Does anyone have an idea what it can be and how I get it repaired as layman? Thank you in advance.
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When did you change the ZR on the EA211 (1.2 TSI with 110 hp)
Servus into the Rapid Forum, when looking for the car for my better half, I saw a rapid offer. It’s a 1.2 TSI with 110 hp and EZ in 2015. According to the seller, it can only be the EA211 engine series. Now I read everywhere that these engines have a maintenance-free timing belt. But now butter with the fish, how maintenance-free are they really and when did you change yours? I personally would change the ZR at the price negotiations. a 10 year old belt is actually a big risk. Or is ma actually taught a better thing at the Rapid? Thank you in advance and always good driving
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Skoda Scala purchase advice place back bench
Hello together, I swan aktuel between a used Octavia Kombi or a Scala. I drive mainly city traffic and country road. I drive highway every 1 to 2 months approx. 1000 km, where I drive on average 130 km/h. Of the 3-cylinder 1.0 engines I am personally not so convinced with longer motorway rides, which is why the 1.5 TSI should become. Currently my search criteria are from 2021, up to 60,000 km. Up to approx. 20.500 Euro. At the Scala there are many offers here, at the Octava I’m still unsure about the place for a later child seat on the back seat. Does anyone know how much less space is on the back bench at the Scala opposite Octavia? Thank you and say hi to Johannes
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Scala Android Car Apple CarPlay wireless
Hello together, I’ve always been at the same place since I had the Scala, disconnecting connections with different devices Apple and Android makes no difference. Is always at the same place at home in the border area to Austria and at my pendulum line near Hof to the Czech Republic. With cable everything is wonderful, with wireless not. Break off briefly and then connect again. Original Skoda. With my ChinaDisplay in Vito everything is great and that does not happen. and can offer a solution? Other frequency band or regional settings or something? Thanks Simon
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Underbody protection right after the new purchase?
Hello dear members, I would be very pleased about your experiences, opinions and tips. My questions: 1. Is it worth doing a Skoda Scala, an underbody protection including cavities, right after the new purchase? That saves a cleaning, since there is no dirt yet. And this alone should probably cost 500-150€. 2. Do you have tips for Aachen/Cologne surroundings? Where did you have it done and for how much? Why am I interested in the topic? Because I like to drive it to the bitter end n would like and hope that with the right care from the beginning, it lasts longer Thank you!
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Problem with rear flap sensor when the interior lighting is switched on
When I turn on the interior lighting when the engine is running, a message is displayed in my driver’s display or flashes on that my tailgate is not closed. In addition, a warning sound resonates (as if driving with a door that is not properly closed). If I turn off the interior lighting again, the problem is gone. Has anyone ever had an experience of this or a guess what this might be all about?
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Winter bikes
Hello together, soon there’s a Yeti more on our roads. The thickness comes in 8 weeks. His name: MONTE CARLO 1.4 TSI 92kw DSG My question: Would like to have winter-suitable aluminium wheels mounted on the bodies. Which sizes are permissible and which press-in depths are possible. Perhaps someone has a link to the favorable purchase of the wheels. Then still a question about the Radio SWING latest generation. How much GB can the memory card, or the Mini USB stick have thus everything without P robleme. Thank you and all the good ride. Thom
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All 200 – 300 km DPF symbol in instrument cluster
Hello together, we drive a Yeti 2.0 TDI, 81 kw, year 2011 with meanwhile about 84tkm. We bought it at the time 03/12 with about 14tkm and are mostly satisfied with the vehicle. Up to the time, at which the phenomenon occurred that about every 2-300 km the “DPF symbol” lights up in the instrument cluster and you have to drive the DPF “free”. The problem started about early 2017 (but still at higher intervals) and so massive it occurred since the software update of the engine STG at the friend In the end, the AGR valve was replaced completely in June 17. The problem with the AGR valve was fixed at least once. However, the short intervals with the DPF regeneration remained. Our driving profile is (in the meantime) 95% short distance in the place – I know, not really optimal. Diagnostic cables and VCDS are available. In the real-time log you can use normal driving times. see how the “mass of soot calculated” increases by 0.01 g in a second. Until it becomes too much at about ~40 g at some point and the DPF has to be regenerated. The ash loading is allegedly at 0.00 l (?!?). What possibilities do I have to test different components using VCDS to get to the problem if necessary? What I notice in comparison to “earlier” is that the diesel gases smell “bice – russ”. Maybe someone can help me before I can un- I’m sorry, but I don’t have any confidence in this anymore. Thank you very much.