Category: VW Motoren Forum

Good day, the injection nozzles in my VW Golf 7 Variant (built in 2018, 1.6 TDI) were unfortunately not properly trained at Bosch. The injection nozzles have been overhauled by Bosch, and I bought them for 700 €. The problem is that my car is jerking while driving. I have to keep giving more and more gas as I drive, and when I give less gas the car starts to jerk. I had the car diagnosed yesterday in the workshop, and I was told that the injection nozzles in my VW Golf 7 Variant (built in 2018, 1.6 TDI) were not properly trained at Bosch. injection nozzles on cylinders 2 and 4 have been replaced / are stored incorrectly. Is it possible that the car is jerking because of the wrongly learned injection nozzles? Can one learn or reset the injection nozzles again? Unfortunately, I have to wait three weeks until I get an appointment at Bosch again! I ask for an answer!

Good morning, the caddy doesn’t start any more. According to the description of the holder, this morning jumped on and after a few meters driving, the suddenly raced. No restart possible. Year of construction 12.2011, but the old engine according to serial number. Error codeP 304, 301 and 300. Misign ignition. In 2019, i.a. with the help of the forum, I renewed the control chain including oil pump. Up to data no 10000 km moved. Only short distance. Total 110000 km running power. According to the holder regular. low water loss which is not visible on the engine. Engine ventilation was interrupted. I replaced. Zundspullen and candles evenly new. If you build the candles out and again. If it runs after a short “orgeln” stuttering rattles for a few seconds. Control times I have plugged off, are ok. Compression:3 cylinder 12.5 bar. Cylinder 1 only 9 bar. Behave me a few months, but don’t really come on. Now I have time and would repair the “slip” if possible. Does anyone have any suggestions or diagnoses?

I read that the new EA211 evo2 should contain many technical innovations. Among other things, cooling channels poured into the Kobeln, and an exhaust gas cleaning unit made of catalyst and particulate filter very close to the engine. I honestly have something to think about that so cooling channels in the Koblen make it more covert, and then there could be again similar problems as a batch of the 2.0 TSI engines had before because of the Koblen rings. And very close to the engine exhaust gas cleaning unit sounds like it would be exposed to higher temperatures and higher loads. And in the case of unit it sounds like if it was necessary to replace the particle filter no longer individually. And it would certainly have to be very expensive to replace completely.

Hello together, On the Golf 5 GT my father-in-law soups. Workshop oil in the candle hole or in the well where the candle is. The oil runs down on the hot engine, stinks and burns, especially when the engine is heavy. Can you make a rhyme on the Master’s information that the repair should cost about 1500 euros? How does oil come into the well in the head where the candles are stuck? Did anyone ever have this at the TSI? Greeting, Jochen

Hello, I have the following problem at my Tiguan 5N (2009, 150 hp, 4-motion, 156000 km): From 2000 – 3000 revolutions during acceleration a clear jerking or stucking can be noticed. Over this speed and also below there is no problem. It also occurs in every gear – especially in the lower speed range when accelerating. No matter what weather and whether the engine is warm or cold. I have VCDS and the fault memory is empty. Tubes are so tight, Turbo is new (the stucco was already before). Maybe someone can give me tips on how to “test” with VCDS and above all which values are in the tolerance ranges. Thank you!

Hi to all Turbo-Profischrauber colleagues, have problems with my turbocharger at the moment and want to change the Wastegate valve setting.Unfortunately you can’t get there so easily.Can someone tell me if I come to it or if it is long when I unscrew the exhaust manifold at the block ???? I describe my problem sometimes, maybe one has already had this problem already. Car is not very powerful and only reaches the V-Max of 220 km/h (with a long start, straight distance, without wind).In addition, I have only a maximum charging pressure of 0.5bar. According to VW I should have max. 0.8bar. Have now renewed the LMM and the N75 valve. Result:Car pulls a little better, but still 0.5bar charging pressure. Did then the wastegate can with air pressure checked, full function. Then unfortunately, to see if the turbocharger is possibly defective,the wastegate can be cooled.Turbolader does not bring up to 1.5bar,so the problem has not been solved.

Hello. I drive a 2023 new car from the VW group (seat), thus with VW engine (one of the 1.0 tsi shrink engines) The unspeakable electronic maintenance system in the car reports that I should make after 1.5 years in 500km oil change. … But it also reports then inspection in 5 months. In the past the manned was more simple: time or km fixed. However, depending on what comes first. Now I wanted to have the oil change made first according to manufacturer specifications (written in invoice) at a free chain workshop (ATU) and then dIe inspection then at the VW / Seat dealer. But obviously, according to ATU every pure oil change without inspection is NOT made according to HERSTELLER PRESENT: Quoted website: “When oil change is seen only the engine oil, the oil filter and the oil release screw is renewed. It can not be made an entry into the digital service booklet? Or a simple oil change with basic check is asked differently to believe the manufacturer’s specifications for warranty and warranty.” Thus, as I see, everyone who does not take oil change well?

Good day I would have asked a question about the engines of the ea288 generation. I would be interested in how robust the engines really are. You can find some with over 300,000 km but there are experiences from when the engines really start to cause problems. I have never driven a VW skoda or Audi before. So I am not so in the matter inside. Is there actually a change interval for the timing belt of the oil pump? Are there actually motors in the series that have more or less problems? Or are they largely identical to the construction?

Hello, wouldn’t it be useful with a car, both the first kilometers to drive completely without cooling, so that the motor comes faster to operating temperature, and then to activate the water boiler circuit later ?? Ok there is a large and a small cooling circuit, is certainly a good approach, but a modern car still needs at least 10 km until it is operating warm. That is for many short-distance cars too long and they never get really warm. Specifically my problem, with the Golf 4 1.6 SR (8V) in winter it never gets really warm, so in the oil fill a yellow mud collects!

hello, are there some general tips that you should consider when starting the brand new engine?