Category: VW Motoren Forum

Hello good day everyone, I bought yesterday a 1.4er with 86 hp Built. 2014 from a dealer when I drove home noticed the car vibrating / jerking in the stand, as strong as 3 cylinder car (which was not noticeable during test drive) , then I went back to the dealer and the master said that maybe the spark plug is still not optimal, because the car was standing so long and was not much moved, and recommended me to drive a long distance so that it runs again optimally, if after 2 weeks is still so I can go to the again and look for the error (have yes guarantee) , then yesterday I drove directly 100km and it runs great in the highway, quiet and comfortable, but the vibration is still there in the stand , I really think about it a lot, especially if one of the cylinders is broken what I can not remember, My question, is the statement of the master is logical? And should I wait and drive a lot so that the spark plug is again optimal? What can be the result of the vibration in the stand?

Hello friends, there would be a question for you. You can now read at VW especially with the 1.4l gasoline engines, no matter if now with or without charging a lot of these piston tippers. But now I have at MT-Talk in the engine forum of VW-Motors gelsen that it hits also Audi. And there seems to be especially the 3 and 4 l engines….that I mean the displacement now. I would like to know why it comes to the piston tipper with these engines. Is this now because of the quality of these engines, that is to say, was saved on the material. There are all the full aluminium engines. But with other manufacturers the Alu engines produce this phenomenon does not seem to occur so often. Or are there distortion faults??? If one of you can say anything about this, I would be happy if he writes his opinion here. Thank you for your answers.

Hello Together, I hope you can help me thanks to the friend with high cost. I have a Polo 1.4 85 HP, which jerks at idle speed, no matter if hot or cold. He has seen around 170000km on the clock and never seen E10. In VCDS time he exchanged a fluctuation of 620 – 760U/min^-1 What I have done -tooth change with water pump (control times several times check these fit) -cylinder head seal (head planned and pressed for tightness of valves) -hydroshumps (since some the spring was defective) -tooth tube pressure sensor (on assumption of jerking) -throat valve (since he had had in the warm start problem, was also learned) -with a cloth the injection valves tested the spraying valve have not yet been tested yet. -toe force loader replaced -toe force pressure is consistent with 4 and ventilated. -too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too too tootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootoootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootootoo

Hello, I have heard that coolant sealants can help with leaks in the cooling system. I have the following questions: – Which product is the best from your point of view?- Before filling in: Keep the engine warm or not?- when filling in: Run the engine or off? Wet dry weather? Winter/summer? Turn on or off any functions?- After filling in: Don’t run the engine, run in idle or go hot? Heating on or off? What else is there to consider? What are your experiences?

Good day, I wonder how far blow off valves are distinguished. There are which ones that are normal “hiss” and which ones do that:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ffj01k64AZI from 0:10 min. What are those valves like from the video? Sounds weird. Greetings

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Servus der 3er TD has a pre-glue device, which grabs as soon as you close the driver’s door on the first step. I usually blow up twice so that it starts right away, after a longer service life, and wanted to test the mechanism today. Result: car starts immediately (without re-glueing). I look at it once, after closing it (actually the second time, so to speak), he coughs and dies.. At the 2nd he comes then good… Can one pull iwelschluesse out of the starting behavior? lg from Lower Austria

Hello together, I would like to build a new suction bridge for my 16V Turbo, because mine is probably very bad in terms of air flow, etc. (It is only a shortened 16V bridge) My consideration is to build a gap suction pipe (which should be limited in performance) or to build an intake bridge similar to a fan manifold with 4 equal length pipes. What do you think about it? Makes sense or is an Olles S2 pipe just as effective. You should have an uneven cylinder filling with it? Thanks already for the answers.

Hello since I have already seen at the boba article that many experts are here I wanted to set up my new project and ask if this would work like this and what power can come from it? so as a basis serves a 1.8l kr motor. first I will make the fused motor more stable so rs2 pleuel and piston new 16v main bearing and rs2 pleuel bearing head I will only easily work so to adapt to the curved and to the suction bridge. Abf nockswellen and schrick hydropulsel. shock charge bender I myself will make a gt30 with small exhaust housing. downpipe made of stainless steel and 3″ diameter + complete system. charging system made of 60mm stainless steel. engine control I will answer with a freecubator of course with a small engine.

Hello friends, would have a question to you. The story has a small background, so first of all a small introduction. I also have an oldtimer tractor. Built in 1950, It is an oak, single cylinder, 1.2 l cylinder capacity, 13 hp, air cooled. With that I drive the prescribed HD40 single-range oil of the brand Tectrol. My neighbor drives a VW Golf 6 with the 1.4 l, 80 hp engine. Yesterday he came to me, and asked me about engine oil because he had to refill something with his car. I told him I only had the oil for my oldtimer Schlepper. And that’s an HD40. That’s what he meant. He fills the oil with the HD40 otherwise also in his car. He runs very well with it, so without any problems as he told me. However, he only leaves it in the summer, then you get HD30, so the single-range oil for the winter, because he only bad starts with the 40 oil in the winter. When I told him that it is not allowed for his engine, but he didn’t tell me that he didn’t have a lot of oil?