Category: VW Phaeton Forum

Moin to the technicians I’m still looking for the cause of my elevated tire wear and the occasional flapping at the VA. I have changed now the couplersStangs and the lower rear handlebars Since I have occasionally/more often still a flap when driving over a small paragraph, we went yesterday and looked again. At the same time we noticed that when the steering wheel moves quickly to the left to the right a sound to hear that wi e play between two metal parts listens and comes from the area of the steering gear and the trackStangs. I would have hoped on the axial joints , because these are not so expensive but when lifting the Fzg on one side this noise is clearly heard on both sides and also to feel at the trackStangs It is not the trackStang heads that are fixed. In order to be able to explicitly exclude the axial joints, one would have had to take the Manchettes off,that I did not want yesterday evening I don’t think it’s normal, but maybe only I see it that way. My friend means the sound comes from the steering gear. I’m going to drive to a friend today.The confessing Phaeton is a fetishist and sings the praises for this automobile to the night rest to heaven. His P is supposed to be absolutely fault-free and I’ll see if he has this game on the steering wheel too. If not I have another construction Does anyone know this problem or does it happen more often that there is a game in the steering? Greeting Martin

tach, together since Thursday is a phaeton GP3, bj. 2011, 3.0TDI V6 with approx. 165,000km in my possession. so I would like to present myself to the official public: I’m called michael, am 45 and live in the tranquil phalz, near mannheim. so I’m geologically a border-pfälzer, in the heart but rooted in the middle of it my vehicle before that was a volvo S80, from which I have now separated myself with a bit of wistiness and exchanged for a contemplative phaeton. pictures come natural h still. in the course of the sunny weekend I will do it and set it here. I wish everyone a nitter-free ride and look forward to a pleasant together in this forum.

Hello on Friday I bought a Pheaton V6 Diesel BJ 2007 96000km. I got the car from HH everything was top when I refueled after about 150km and so made 30 min break I drove again with a wide grinning further home towards Kassel After about 10 km then the terrifying beep beep and the error ^Abgas workshop^ I then carefully drove to home. Next day I drove to a free workshop and let the error read. There was somehow dDross I couldn’t read exactly as the car master had already deleted the error. I drove away after that. About 10 km the error came again. Can someone help me and give me types what is defective. Thanks in advance. LG Kadir

Hello together, as maybe in the one or other post already read, I changed all the handlebars VA (original parts TRW/Lemförder), the coupling rods (Meyle) and the track rod head (Meyle) with my 3.0 TDI GP3. Axle is now also correctly measured and adjusted. Tires all around new. Nevertheless, I still have a vibration, which is sometimes weaker in intensity. Most noticeable at approx. 60-80 km/h, but also at 130 km/h cruise control. In addition, I feel a slight flap on the front axle with bumps on the road in urban traffic. The problems were already there before the exchange of the handlebars. Also with the summer rims and almost new tires. The summer bikes have 19″, the winter wheels 18″. Have tried different air pressures, sometimes at the lower limit, sometimes a little more. No difference. Vibrations are also there when I switch to neutral when I roll. Axialge steering on the steering gear have no play, wheel bearings at the front do not make any noises and also have no game. I can only think of the drive shafts now. But would it be new to me that a drive shaft clatters in unevenness on the road or only causes vibrations but does not make grinding/knocking noises. The cuffs are not ripped or greasy. One of you might still have another idea where the problem might lie? VG Ulti

hello, for some time the switching processes in the lower gears became a bit rough and with constant driving there were speed fluctuations. Above all the switch back 3.->2. was very hard (in cold condition more clearly than warm) read out with VCDS –> Error 17125 + 17116 on it I had the gear oil level checked and when refilling exactly 3 liters missing! now the jerking 3.–>2. almost harder turn up again runs soft. has someone experience with it ? mfg norman

Hi, I got quite cheap to a Phaeton V6 (BJ 2007) with almost 300,000km. Since the car had new TÜV and made a very well-kept impression on me, I bought it without thinking big about it. I now have the following problem with the car: After already a few minutes standing time (engine off) the car lowers at the front left (a hissing is to be heard) on the right side it descends slightly. Auto pumps up again normally. My question is: Makes sense without to search for the cause directly to install new feather legs or make it sense to look with leak-search-spray for the leak. I would be interested in your experiences and opinions. MFG Domi

Hello together, since the look of the vehicle came to me simply too “bock-legged”, my GP0 has lowered by means of height-adjustable sensor coupling rods. Since the driving comfort is still important to me, I let it be good at approx. 2 cm. Nevertheless, the car seems unexpectedly hard – even with comfort adjustment in the menu. 2 cm should normally hardly be felt – is actually ridiculously little. Apart from this it seems to be a mood of the car, from times 2, 5 or 1.5 cm to do – depending on the shape of the day… Well: What is lazy here? Do you have to recalibrate the zero point of the level control? Is this trying to “fight” against the new changed vehicle depth and pumping the air bellows too badly? I actually understand the sensor coupling bars in such a way that they specify exactly this zero height and is good… I have NO error messages. Vehicle drives at high level and again at normal level – as always! Damping adjustment also possible. You???? Thank you for your feedback Marc

Hello everyone out there! It’s a Phaeton 3.2 liter gasoline, EZ. 2004. I noticed that the steering wheel lock no longer works. After pulling off the key you can hear this noise, as if the “lock” would close, but you can just turn the steering wheel further, then there will be noise, as if the gearing is only slightly touched. Quite strangely, someone can tell me how to get that right again or what exactly is defective and I have to be exchanged? I searched the entire network, but found nothing… Already in advance many thanks to all the helpful here!

Dear forum, today my fat guy is having trouble for the first time. I’m going to get an error message with “Key..” and a key symbol is displayed. On the way I notice that the air conditioning, the turn signals, the windscreen wipers and the ventilation no longer work. At home the car no longer starts and the key can no longer be pulled out. With the spare key I could only close the car mechanically. Here in the forum I looked for help about 1 hour and found a lot of information about Kessy. I wanted to check out my Kessy and see that I can unlock the car again and even start again! The engine is running smoothly, the carpet was dry. Only now I have a new problem. Now I have a yellow flashing spring symbol and a warning “motor failure: workshop!” in the fittings. I would like to visit zottel125 immediately doc h will my fat guy still make the about 100km? Greetings Thomas

Hello Phaeton municipality! My newly acquired Phaeton currently has several small problems. In addition to a non-opening tailgate (blinker flashes but no reaction of the tailgate), also a non-opening ventilation hood on the passenger side. The ventilation flap did not work already when buying the car, here was the suspicion of a broken actuator of the flap. After changing the actuator for the ventilation flap (the new engine I got with it when buying) the flap nac h turn on the ignition to drive. So far so well, after all, I now know that the flap would be functional again, however, it can now not be opened again. the LEDs below the flap remain still after several push around on the switch off… My suspected is now on a defect of the switch, does someone know how to check this or. removals? Thank you already in advance!