Category: VW Phaeton Forum

Hello municipality, since last week I am proud owner of a GP3 V6 TDI with all the frills. What I notice – at the bottom when starting and speeding, he has really Wumms. At the intermediate sprint (from about 140 to 180/190) does not really do itself with Kick-Down. You have the feeling, the car goes first into the cellar, looks if somewhere still power lies around and drags it then laboriously up into the kitchen where then she prepares and tosssssssssssing under a lot the wheels are passed on. So just pull on the AB at 150 to the left and give light gas to start overtaking is not. There has to be a lot of space to the back. Sure – the weight. But there is already everything okay? Do you also feel that way? Is there a power syringe?

Hello together, dear suffering-stricken… I have with a V6 from 2011 the problem that the car after highway driving in the partial load area, like to switch down at 120 or 140 km/h while accelerating first, but does not happen. No drive. Then it switches again, results in a bang, from which I think it comes from behind and then speeds up a jerk and then it. Does anyone have an idea? VW sets itself up. It is a VW leasing vehicle to me connection guarantee, but the friendly says that he doesn’t know what to do without a tell-tale and an error memory. I have now recorded the whole thing via GoPro camera and put the car there. At first this was rare, by now more frequent. Does anyone have an idea or a tip?

Hi friends, I have read here in the forum about the painful experiences of the Phaeton brakes. I have now found a very good solution after the experience of an acquaintance. This looks like this: Front and rear brake pads of the company EBC from the Yellow-Stuff series (this is sports brake pads with ceramic composition) there is also a Red-Stuff series which is only 10 € per set cheaper. The special is on the pads that you have a stability up to 950 degrees bes This means that the rims are easy to clean because nothing burns. with the brake discs my acquaintances have installed the carpenter punched brake discs and I have chosen the ones from ATE. The brake values and delay are also after several brakings in the warm condition no fading no rubbing. Greetings dr.cisco

Hello, as the title says, my climate is only one-sided. That means from the outflows of the passenger side comes very cold air but on the driver side lukewarm air flows – this then becomes a little cooler but never as cold as on the passenger side. This concerns both outflows of the driver side in the switchboard sitting behind the wooden blinds. I mean the air from the outflow to the left of the steering wheel is a little cooler than from the left midstream to the right of the steering wheel. e Ejectors at the top of the dashboard cool evenly on both sides – at least I have the impression of it. I have read the Ssp271 – but I can’t circle the problem because there is probably only a cold air flap (v197) for the front and if it wouldn’t open – then probably no cold air should come at all in the front. The air flap for the left side opens in the middle and can also be closed manually via the button. Perhaps the temperature sensor from the left heat exchanger (g306)? St The coolant was felt 6 months ago at vw and two actuators were replaced. V71 pressure valve V113 umluftklappe But if the coolant were the cause the passenger side should not cool either…… Achja Eco is switched off reset the ZAB is performed by resetters (up to vw logo can be seen). Left and right is set to 21 degrees. Comes with an external temperature of more as ~25grad. V6tdi BMK 165kw 2006

Hello and a beautiful good morning, after I have been studying the forum for hours and have not found anything else in the WWW, I venture into the cave of the lion. I have had a Phaeton 3.0 GP0 BJ2006 for a week. Until yesterday afternoon he did everything as well. Yesterday my wife started her maiden voyage with the car. She “must use her own key of course. The journey to the destination went to her full satisfaction. Now I got all the rdings a daily call for help regarding the return trip. At first the car probably did not open via the remote control, then it opened the car with the key mechanically. Then the alarm system came in, but this was mentally deactivated by a pressure on the key. Unfortunately, for the order of the actions my wife can no longer give any guarantees due to the annoying load. Then at least her radio remote control worked again. Nell put in the car, Ignition key plugged in and with horror read the message “Immobilizer activated”. After some more excited phone calls I drove to her about 2 hours and could start the car there with my (first) key without any problems. At the sample on the example with her (second) key also I only came to the display message “Immobilizer active”. A battery change at the (second) key of my wife did not bring any improvement. What to do dami t also my wife can use her own key adequately again? The good Phaeton is again in front of our apartment after a successful return trip, using my (first) key. Greetings and many thanks in advance! The Goon

My last topic on spare parts supply has not even been completed (see here: https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…zteilversorgung-phaeton-t7156853.html – from the VW customer service after 14 days no answer), since my Phaeton acquired in May has the next disaster. It rained stronger yesterday and through a leaky sliding roof has apparently run half the car full. I noticed it only because my mobile phone in the apartment has connected to the VW phone via Bluetooth. In front of the T The driver’s door could only be opened manually via the key, the remote controls were no longer at all. Keys in the ignition lock, no reaction – except that he didn’t give the key anymore. In any case, the ignition could not be switched off. However, the alarm system went on for that. Workshop for towing was called up. Until they were there, the batteries had at some point also given up. r Status of the diagnosis: sliding roof leaks. For the examination of the ECUs must probably be disassembled half the interior. The towing mechanic said, after he had the bonnet on, there it would also smell burnt after short circuit. Does anyone have experience with the warranty handling in such cases? The vehicle is BJ 2015 and has just 42,000 kilometers on the clock. A new transmission had to be clean after the low mileage…

Hello, on the Internet you can read a lot about problems with the injectors with regard to the 3.0 TDI. Well, I have the 3.0 TDI (BMK) in my 2005er, MJ 2006 Phaeton. The following values I have read today by VCDS, km stand: 163.800 1 injector, which seems to be already at the end with -22, all the others are obviously coked. What is surprising is that I have never read about defective injectors with the 3.0 TDI here in the forum, at least I don’t remember reading about defective injectors with the 3.0 TDI. I’ve had at least 5000 to 6000 km before, before that my schedule is packed so full that I don’t have any real time to investigate the whole thing. What do you think? Do I still get 5000 to 6000 km far? What do you say to the values? Thank you, mfG Alex ps: Last oil change was about 1500km, since then the oil level has not risen.

Hello Together now the next defect. No water comes from the windscreen wash nozzles and also not from the headlight cleaning nozzles. How many pumps does the thickness have? Only one pump for everything or two? If two it is very unlikely that both are identically defective. All at the same time clogged also does not work. But fuses can it not be anyhow (look after) because the fuse is SD11 for headlight cleaning and SD19 for disc…. Am for each one Tip grateful Greetings Günni

Hello, I need to penetrate help though today my Phaeton happened the following. VW Phaeton, 3.0Tdi, 2011, 160,000km circa After 5 years of possession I put the car on the net and an interesting report and wanted to drive the car to Dekra to have it checked. Until then I had never had any problems and once said the employee he could not get the car in the car lifternodus. From the yard we tried this with the familiar, 5sec. damper and 5. Nivaeureg. pressed. t and vehicle was in the car lifter mode. Now it shows the following. Error: level. workshop! and curve light AFS. From Dekra out into the next master workshop. Error read, not deposited. Now I have these two errors on the speedometer “Error: level. workshop! and curve light AFS. ” and my car stands very high. Although with level control Normal is selected, there is nothing more. Please for help! …

Hello guys, I need your help. At my Phaeton one of the front spring legs leaked, so I put the car in the VW workshop. There were then both spring legs exchanged. Unfortunately, during the repair, why ever, the distance sensor on the brake power amplifier was damaged… currently not available. They log in as soon as the sensor is back in stock. Until then I must live with the fact that my ACC will fail as soon as the car has to brake more strongly. But what is much worse, since the repair the hardness adjustment of the dampers no longer works. The car is always maximum hard and really cruel around the area. There is currently nothing to feel about the raised floating. In the error memory there is nothing to find. In the workshop now they hope that this is also related to the defective distance sensor. Can that be? What do you think it can be? I also get no error message when I get the hardening On the display all this is well accepted, but nothing changes on the chassis. Thank you for your help!