Category: VW Phaeton Forum

I have now got for my original 19″ Alufelge which I would like to use as a full replacement wheel. Here the question arises now whether it makes sense to equip this also with an RDK sensor? Is the system able to capture and monitor an existing spare wheel with it? Only then would I consider it useful. Because if I really need the wheel and I am on the road with it for a day or two I can probably live with the error message. I don’t think it’s necessary to buy ensor, but if I could constantly monitor the spare wheel with a built-in sensor, it would be great.

Hello guys, couldn’t find anything suitable in the search function (only similar problems). So, my fat guy doesn’t react with all three variants of the electric boot opening or lock. Manually it’s difficult..halt. When opening no display in the display, trunk has no light, lock button on the tailgate without light. Was in the workshop. They checked the wire harness … nothing. Computer also shows nothing. Batteries allegedly charged. But everything dead… Eide Werkstatt.: same procedure, nothing found, only assumption that the rear lock is defective and the control part should be changed at the flap. So are 1500,- Euro on assumption, only for the parts. I don’t want to do that to myself. I want to look now. Maybe the battery is the problem…? Which is it? Please help me. Gruss Robby

Dear community, I have fulfilled a long-happened dream and got a Phaeton from 2003 with the small V6 3.2 machine and 6 gear hand shift.I had already looked at some Phaetons before, but the higher-priced ones were not as good as this overall (because e.g. air suspension defective or similar). I have now actually a driving ready with 1.5 years Tüv,280000km which seems to be really good to use for under 3000 Euros even with gas system.Rolle It is clear, however, that he has already seen better times. I would particularly like to devote myself to three rather burning technical defects and I hope that you can give advice with a good tip or even some DIY. 1. Problem: The radiator fan always runs at the highest level with the running engine (right to hear the sound of the air, the fan sounds healthy, but always at the highest level). 2. In front of the windscreen wiper ern is a plastic cover, under it seems to be a blower for the heating / air conditioning, it always runs quietly yet audible, even if the car is standing and closed and I go back to the car after the night it still runs.Is that normal?Sometimes he surely pulls the battery empty… 3.The right windscreen wiper does nothing, but the other one goes. Maybe something of these things also hangs together, who has an idea to the procedure,I like to hand to put on dlas old (T) spaceship. Greetings!

Moin Moin I wanted to hear your constructive opinion about the idea. I have a V6 TDI from 2008 which I unfortunately set against another vehicle (the Audi 100 looked 10x worse ): To repair the front I have now picked out several vehicles. Among other things a V10 from 2004 with 130K KM down however with immobilizer control unit damage. There is probably water in and well. So I could shoot the favorably. First of all to my fully equipped! V6 to rep However, if the engine actually has so little KM down why not use the engine? WIE said the other car has a very well-preserved beige interior and a pretty ugly green color but only basic equipment. Therefore, it is no longer necessary for me to use this car especially since my only need to operate a pure part replacement without judging anything. In theory, the car should be able to pick up the engine easily. Now the question which Proble What else does it take to change the brake system, cooling and gearbox? Does anyone even have some experience? On my side is a very experienced Renault screwdriver with 30 years of professional experience and a setting that says: Everything is possible. But I want to get to the point with a clearer picture. I also have ETKA and all available repair guides from VW at my disposal.

Happy Christmas and a happy New Year, it’s not easy for me in these Corona-influenced times. It doesn’t feel right. That’s why I wish you the best I can wish for this time; health for you and your loved ones. LG Udo

Hello Phaeton lover since February proud owner of a Phaeton Gp3 V6 TDi and am new here. If there had been a question of you maybe someone can help me there. After a long research I finally found someone who unlocked the heater for me. Today the guy has connected a laptop A packet set ready the whole fun 75 Euro For two minutes! Has also worked before the place drove to work. Then I was looking forward to the timer at 17.30 Getting into a warm car Not even the heater is possible now! It has been made by a well-known company from Bielefeld, which is specialized for retrofitting for VAG vehicles. To my question, someone of you has let the heater unlock? How are your experiences. Thank you in advance.

Ahoi together, I discovered a coolant leak and suspect that it leaks out of the maggot screw at the bottom of the alternator, or drips it off there. I already checked the hoses above by endoscope but could not detect any leaks, the engine was washed today thoroughly so that I can look again tomorrow. Can someone tell me what happens if I turn this maggot screw out? I guess that the cooling circuit will run empty because the place nevertheless r really sits far down in the system, there is a possibility to clamp the inlet from above ? The idea would be to turn the maggot screw (if it comes out) out and cut the thread after it and replace it with a new Greetz

Hello everyone, I am now also proud owner of a Phaeton (the third one in the family – from the thickness there seems to be a great risk of contagion ) and I am happy to be here now also a little more active than only mostly reading as before. A few key data: GP4 (built in 2014), 5-seater long version, 3.0 TDI, beryllium grey outside and Corn Silk beige inside (a admittedly somewhat daring combination), 60,000 km ran. A few more photos follow probably in the coming days on my profile. But now to my actual question: The thickness (engine CEXB) produces in the partial load range a quite clear nailing/clagers. A nailing, which I am not used to in this clarity of the other Phaetons in the family (but they all still have the “forerunner engine” BMK). It occurs exclusively in the partial load range and ONLY with warm engine. In all other conditions it runs absolutely calm. The engine buzzes nich t, does not produce white smoke, oil levels remain constant. The correction values of the injectors are absolutely inconspicuous (photo in the appendix). Where else could this come from? Possibly AGR? Was there something fundamentally modified at the CEXB? On a good relationship and still a nice evening Philipp

Hello, Does anyone have any experience of what the costs are? My friend at the friendly thought that VW does not provide for a transmission oil change for the thickness. Except in “Hotlands”… Hmm he said he could still arrange it, but he wouldn’t even see how much oil has to be in the program. He also said that the oil costs about 100€ per liter and I certainly would have a bill of minimum 1000€ with the action. Is that realistic???? Looking forward to your answers. LG

Halo together, I gave my Dicken last week to the friendly because at the driver’s door the pull-up aid no longer wanted. After initial expansion error: rope hoist defective. Insurance with excess of 150€ covers this. When he was driven to the yard the pull-up aid no longer went. New diagnosis: lock defective. Since other assembly again 150€ self-tilting… Does anyone have an assessment whether 300€ for the function stand in proportion? Maybe I am nimble as the lock a I find the 150€ surcharge in the same process rather strange about otherwise impeccable works. Especially since I can not understand whether the rope pull was finally defective. Occasionally the soft close was still going on. Is it worth it to make such a request? Where do I do such a thing at all? With the VIP service?