Category: VW Phaeton Forum

Hello guys, I’m new here in the forum and a week ago I got a Phaeton 3.2 V6 with EZ at the end of 2003 and 179 Tsd km. Before I drove a “DICKEN” Chrysler 300 C Touring …. a magnificent copy, 22 inches, low, louder, bulliger … well had a lot of fun with it, ride now more solid 😉 The “NEUE DICKE” has full equipment such as KeylessGo, digital sound system, massage seats and all the other advantages and I’m very pleased with it …. but I need a BASS i m Auto! I’ve been reading through here for a long time and have already received good tips for the DICKEN related to Mulitmedia . Like the digital media player, with which I can now hear MP3 … But now on the topic. I want to install a subwoofer, wires from the battery to the external amplifier is not a topic, is everything freely accessible. But so that I get a signal for my high/low adapter I need a signal from the bass boxes in the vehicle interior which I use current thieves. I tried to get out the left fuse box, because behind it the digital amplifier hides itself from the DICKEN, but that seems impossible. The thick cable harness over the fuse box, with the “many colorful cables” are clearly the cables for the boxes. I then dismantled the left panel in the trunk and see here, the cable strand can be “edited” well here. Here I could easily tap the cable …. but of 12 boxes the verba ut are, are only 4 bass boxes out of the side doors. Maybe someone has an idea what color one of the 4 bass boxes has? Would also tap directly from the interior or from the door, but the door panels have no nerve and there are just too many switches on it. Now I have seen here http://www.ta-group.at/phaeton/images/ssp273_d3.pdf on page 76 Indicator 8 (speaker) that behind the B column panel the cables of the boxes are laid. Is it possible the B- Pillars “simple” to jump off!? Maybe someone else has a better tip!? It must be the bass boxes because I think that over this ALWAYS a signal is running, which I rather exclude with the middle and tweeters .. Thank you in advance

Hello, it’s time for me, both turbochargers have to be replaced at my V10 TDI (2005). The workshop requires 5-6T Euro for it. Is this the normal price, someone knows a workshop in 200km radius of Hamburg that makes something so cheaper?

So, … it’s time, aluminum corrosion at all doors. Twice right doors at the top of the window bay strip and clearly visible. And twice left, down there at the back corner. Keyless entry and pull-in aid are to be considered – with my Phaeton. Some things you could prepare before being driven to the paintr. (And of course everyone says that all this is done on site. But who has for example dismantled the door gluing, knows what everything is broken. ann … ) Procedure seems to me to be useful as follows and there are already helpful contributions to some points. A few first links to this: https://www.motor-talk.de/…/tuergriff-demontieren-t6928576.html?… https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…adventuregeraet-schloss-t6750981.html?… https://www.motor-talk.de/…eren-beifahrerseite-t5939835.html?… https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…rleiste-abmontieren-t5811899.html?… https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…adventuregeraet-schloss-t6750981.html?. . https://youtu.be/A4OZhfT_WYU?si=2okLfi8DYgQZdKPP Possible order (to be checked) In advance: m.E. the door lock can remain installed on the unit carrier and also the ZZH (must be suspended only the Bowdenzug) gaskets and dampings remain unaffected 1. Door panel from 2. Lock cylinder removed 3. Window frames and support frames dismantle 4. Unit carrier dismantle (disc drive in position) 5. Door handle with Keyless-Entry cabling expand 6. Middle trims abba 8. Degrading window bay strips

A question to the specialists who work air conditioning in my Phaeton, however, I have the following problem: If it’s really hot in the car, the air conditioning system is running normally, but then tries to conduct the cold air over the large grille on the windscreen. However, this actuator or the corresponding valve does not seem to work, i.e., you hear something is moving, but there is no cold air coming out of the grid and also no longer from the open nozzles. Since I don’t want to disassemble the entire dashboard my question: Can the actuator or the connected flap be deactivated via VCDS? Or can you separate the actuator from the power supply without much effort? Or is there any other way to solve the problem without disassembly of the dashboard? It’s enough for me if the cold air comes out of the nozzles on the dashboard.

Good morning together, my Phaeton showed on the speedometer, error: level, error memory has been read out, 2 errors: 01049:008 (Currency close after terminal 50, low voltage) 01780:003 (Mechanical malfunction) back everything is fine, lifts and lowers easily. Thanks in advance for your help and tips. MfG

Hello together, with the latest information on the Phaeton Edition 6 (prices, equipment, colors…). The vehicle is identical from the colour scheme (lacquer/leather) with the Phaeton, which stood in Geneva or on the AMI in Leipzig.

Moin to the technicians I’m still looking for the cause of my elevated tire wear and the occasional flapping at the VA. I have changed now the couplersStangs and the lower rear handlebars Since I have occasionally/more often still a flap when driving over a small paragraph, we went yesterday and looked again. At the same time we noticed that when the steering wheel moves quickly to the left to the right a sound to hear that wi e play between two metal parts listens and comes from the area of the steering gear and the trackStangs. I would have hoped on the axial joints , because these are not so expensive but when lifting the Fzg on one side this noise is clearly heard on both sides and also to feel at the trackStangs It is not the trackStang heads that are fixed. In order to be able to explicitly exclude the axial joints, one would have had to take the Manchettes off,that I did not want yesterday evening I don’t think it’s normal, but maybe only I see it that way. My friend means the sound comes from the steering gear. I’m going to drive to a friend today.The confessing Phaeton is a fetishist and sings the praises for this automobile to the night rest to heaven. His P is supposed to be absolutely fault-free and I’ll see if he has this game on the steering wheel too. If not I have another construction Does anyone know this problem or does it happen more often that there is a game in the steering? Greeting Martin

tach, together since Thursday is a phaeton GP3, bj. 2011, 3.0TDI V6 with approx. 165,000km in my possession. so I would like to present myself to the official public: I’m called michael, am 45 and live in the tranquil phalz, near mannheim. so I’m geologically a border-pfälzer, in the heart but rooted in the middle of it my vehicle before that was a volvo S80, from which I have now separated myself with a bit of wistiness and exchanged for a contemplative phaeton. pictures come natural h still. in the course of the sunny weekend I will do it and set it here. I wish everyone a nitter-free ride and look forward to a pleasant together in this forum.

Hello on Friday I bought a Pheaton V6 Diesel BJ 2007 96000km. I got the car from HH everything was top when I refueled after about 150km and so made 30 min break I drove again with a wide grinning further home towards Kassel After about 10 km then the terrifying beep beep and the error ^Abgas workshop^ I then carefully drove to home. Next day I drove to a free workshop and let the error read. There was somehow dDross I couldn’t read exactly as the car master had already deleted the error. I drove away after that. About 10 km the error came again. Can someone help me and give me types what is defective. Thanks in advance. LG Kadir

Hello together, as maybe in the one or other post already read, I changed all the handlebars VA (original parts TRW/Lemförder), the coupling rods (Meyle) and the track rod head (Meyle) with my 3.0 TDI GP3. Axle is now also correctly measured and adjusted. Tires all around new. Nevertheless, I still have a vibration, which is sometimes weaker in intensity. Most noticeable at approx. 60-80 km/h, but also at 130 km/h cruise control. In addition, I feel a slight flap on the front axle with bumps on the road in urban traffic. The problems were already there before the exchange of the handlebars. Also with the summer rims and almost new tires. The summer bikes have 19″, the winter wheels 18″. Have tried different air pressures, sometimes at the lower limit, sometimes a little more. No difference. Vibrations are also there when I switch to neutral when I roll. Axialge steering on the steering gear have no play, wheel bearings at the front do not make any noises and also have no game. I can only think of the drive shafts now. But would it be new to me that a drive shaft clatters in unevenness on the road or only causes vibrations but does not make grinding/knocking noises. The cuffs are not ripped or greasy. One of you might still have another idea where the problem might lie? VG Ulti