Category: VW Phaeton Forum

Hello forum, with my recently bought GP3 I notice a relatively hard switching. It is not always but from time to time, if you put in the reverse gear, with kick-down accelerated etc. Especially with regard to my old 2008er the automatic is partly rougher and less comfortable. When buying was also an invoice with a transmission flush from about 3 to 4 months ago. Whether the flushing was carried out due to the rough switching mode or possibly only since I don’t know what to do, but I don’t know what to do. Do you have any idea what to do? I know from older vehicles the possibility, for example, when the ignition is switched on and when the kick-down comes through, to bring the automatic into a kind of basic setting and let it learn again. Is this also possible with the Phaeton or do you have to go another way here? Ps. Basically, the switching mode of the automatic is fine, I just get it through the direct comparison on. VG Tom

Hello dear Phaeton friends. I have a little problem with my fat one. I drive a 3.0 Tdi built in 2013. I bought the car in October 2015 from a VW dealer with a mileage of 59000Km. As it was going towards winter I had the winter tires pulled up which I got nail new from VW. After a certain time I noticed that the car vibrates from ca 80kmh to ca 110kmh. The whole thing can be noticed by a citing in the seat and on the hand if you put it on the selector lever for example. I then drove to my workshop to which my cars go when they are out of the warranty because I have always had bad experiences with the VW workshops. The master made a test drive and also he noticed the problem. He then took the car on the stage and let the wheels run free. With a close look you saw the wheel slightly up and down the left. So off to VW because he during the guarantee there did not want to. According to VW the rim was cleaned out and everything was fine. Now the question arises to me why the at that time not balanced would when the new tires came up but good. The problem was not really gone but I waited until the summer to try it with the summer rims. Spring came up mature summer and the problem was still there. Since the tires were not the best I had new ones raised and even measured the axle of VW l assen. Now the problem is still there and today I noticed that when I push the whole car against the fender the whole car is shaking and swimming. In addition, the steering wheel is shaking during the ride. I soon wanted to have an appointment with VW again but asked if someone can help me here so that I can give me some reasons. Thanks already and a nice Sunday still.

Hello dear Fötus friends, an acquaintance asked me for help because of his strongly futile inner taillights, which could not be prepared any more. We bought used replacement and installed, so far, so well. Well, three questions to you: 1. How is this with the foam rubber seals, which should seal the luminaires ggü. the tailgate? When the rearlights were removed, part of it remained stuck to the tailgate, part of it to the taillights. With the new rearlights wa We did not install any new seals, but hoped that the two parts would “unify” to the flap and luminaires again. Is that clear or do we have to remove the sealing residue and then install new seals. 2. There is a kind of edge protection on the sides of the rear lights, which is clipped to the lamp, see picture. This one had a few cracks? Is this bad? Is this part also sealing? 3. In the test “Water We have found that it runs out in the middle of the lock, see picture. Is this a desired process or shouldn’t it be like this? Many questions, right at the beginning of the week. We look forward to your answers.

Hi Leutz, after I have not found satisfactory results about the SuFu, I ask here the question, whether it must be “immediately” VCDS or whether one is not equally well advised with alternatives. As a proud, relative new Phaetonist I wonder, if one really has to go for the screwdriver of his trust because of every fault report. Apart from the coal that one puts on the table, in my case it is more the time that I have to go every time for a We rkstatt visit to the smoke has to write. As a primal Ossi with screwdriver mentality, of course, the idea “can I get myself…” is immediately in the room. But you have to know where it crunches in the electronic belly of the thickness. So I carry myself with the thought of getting such a diagnostic tool. And now to the poodle core, must there be necessarily VCDS or are there alternatives that are also good? At Ross-Tech, the saving version for 3 vehicles costs more than twice as much as to m for example the tool from autoaid, which (only for the Phaeton) costs 115€ incl. shipping. Supposedly you can read out and adjust everything you find in the depths of the ECUs. I also have no problem with a used purchase from the VCDS at ebay, currently one for the 3-FIN saver variant, currently 130€ with 2 free FIN’s… So what do, bid or grab to the alternative product…???

Hello dear people, I have a question. I have a Phaeton of an acquaintance who complains about it already a few weeks ago that his car is jerking in the stand so you can even notice it in the seat. Worst of all it should be when it is cold and reduces the ride. For example when driving at a traffic light or something. Unfortunately I have no exact data about the vehicle. I only know that it is a Phaeton with the 3.0 liter diesel engine. He was probably already in a free car Workshop where it was determined that it should be N to the engine bearings. I have read something in this and in other forums and came to the realization that it could actually lie on it and that it was important for many! However, the acquaintance would like me to change the bearings to him. Then I searched everything for a guide for it but unfortunately did not find out on this point. I am indeed a mechanic and my motto also says that the work the But still I wanted to ask if someone can give me a small or even large guide???? Keyword-like would be enough. Only that when the car comes I know about already where I start and what must be dismantled in any case. And what is most important is of course also to know what one might have to pay attention to. About help from you I would be very grateful.

Hello, with my “thickness” the following problems have occurred for some time: At the start, ignition oscillations occur in idle mode. With the acceleration and warm engine there is nothing to feel. Curious is the following error: Engine warm, idle speed remains stable at around 700U/min. OK Speed up the car, no problem. Now come on. If you go completely off the accelerator pedal, the current consumption goes down to 0, until 1100 revolutions are reached, then sets the gasoline injection, ohh e to touch the accelerator pedal again, and accelerates the car to around 1400 revolutions. Then it regulates again until 1200 revolutions are reached. This speed he tries to keep, regulates itself. Sometimes also stops up to 1400 rpm and back. If you slow down the vehicle under the 1200 rpm until the standstill, the idle speed remains and he does not try to come back to the 1200 rpm. Anyone an idea? Greeting Gerd

Hallöö, my brother-in-law bought a Phaeton from a dealer in Germany today. The Phaeton (BJ 08) was registered in France until 2014, was then bought by the dealer and imported to Germany. The dealer had the Phaeton sold a month ago at the Dekra, but had no data sheet issued. My brother-in-law has now received the following documents from the seller (to allow the Phaeton on Monday): -Buy contract -Franz. Fahrzeugbrief/Schine -Tüv Papiere (Gem. §29 StVZO) I am of the opinion that to allow either the CoC-papers or a data sheet from the Dekra is needed. However, the dealer said that one can easily allow the vehicle with the existing documents (the data sheet would be only a “translation of the French vehicle letter / note” and would cost at the Dekra 15€ if necessary) My question (or that of my brother-in-law) : Does he need a data sheet for registration or would it work without it? And if someone was very friendly would be: Can someone send me the Coc certificate by e-mail (vehicle ID can be censored, but it must be from a 3.0TDI with 240hp) MfG

Since I’ve been phaeton owner for a few days, there would have been some questions. 1. Steering wheel heater switch is available but no function, no error message, 2. Set the chassis to sport always back to normal. Do I do something wrong 3. Glove compartment is a plug next to CD changer, I can connect hard drive, USB memory when I buy the cable 4. Switch TV free while driving

Today I had the AHK retrofitted. Westfalia incl. E-set. Those, which would also offer VW as “original”. I was surprised that all the trailer functions work without a VW unlocking. However, the return camera no longer works (PDC works). Plug and fault diagnosis have checked it all again shortly before the end of the evening. But nothing found. Is the camera function the reason why the VW the E-set still has to be unlocked? Or gives e Is there any other surprises that have not yet been noticed? Today it was too late to make a presentation at VW. But I would be interested in it now. Does one of you have a knowledge of the problem? Thank you and many greetings Thorsten

Hello together. Drive a 2003 v10 since recently,and look at me now already used summer tyres. Sufu was tried,and the search limited to three variants. Performance with 255 tyres Omanyt 19 inches with 275 with Et 35 or 40(towards later) Megara 20 inches with More!? Current winter tyres:255 Dunlop 5 on original Champion 18Zöller Et 40. Whereby I have to listen to the following quote about this same tire,from a friend. I had to agree with him that my ego could handle something like this and that the 255ers are more than sufficient for the winter. Even on his 08/15 Ford Escort are registered original 235ers. The 2-3cm game to the fender also somehow gives up bathtub optics. What leads me to the Et question and track plate option. V10 was delivered (temporarily) with individual tire Omanyt Et 35, so technically-placewise no problem. Here now finally my questions. Experiences regarding comfort losses at 19 inch or larger? Maximum tire width on Megara rim? Use of track plates without risk-possible? Would like to keep my v10 as true as possible to the original, but still to put it visually into the scene without drifting into the red light field. Thank you for your experience. MfG Michael