Category: VW Phaeton Forum

wanted to know the backlights on the backgate don’t work first it was the one side now it’s both sides what can it be ??? are the backlights on the backgate individually secured if yes what security ??? if broken what or what ??? and you can repair it or re-pick it ??? doesn’t want to put the whole holiday money in the thick now Thanks for every help

Hola Together, briefly introduced, after 6 years of abstinence I could not resist the urge to get a 2009 GP2 (black/beige) with excellent equipment, that was for me condition. Now I have the guy there, with his 150tkm he looks like new and confirms that also on the road. I will have some services still to do, but then the next 150tkm should be on it! Not the same despite a two little things have already occurred to me: Thanks for a short time. s feedback.

It is known winter. After several days with rides of about 30-50 km I notice that the battery performance a bit decreases. Of course, heating, cold start, ventilation, heating, seat heating, driving light, rear window…….. All in all many consumers who also pull proper juice. Well the question: I want to charge the two batteries once to 100 %, with a battery trainer, so identical to Cetek. Can I connect the device to the two connections in the engine compartment, think yes. d are both batteries charged or only the starter battery. ???

Hello together, since my Phaeton is always standing longer I wanted to ask if someone has had experience with jump starters, battery boosters oä at the Phaeton? I’m thinking of getting something like this (Maxtools JS500, has sufficient power), but has concerns about the electronics. Can this damage when using such starters (which is to be assumed that the booster is used correctly)? I didn’t find out about the SuFu. PS: must the starter battery be learned/programmed at the Phaeton after exchange? So says my thanks already and best greeting

2004 I decided to change my front brake discs. Details about the reasons are in this thread. The estimate of the local VW factory stable was EUR 1040,- the local BOSCH workshop was EUR 700,- So I brought the car to Bosch. The next day a call came from the workshop. Both brake calipers are stuck and have to be renewed. Estimated costs EUR 3000,-. I said “okay, make”. H There was another call: the brake calipers are there, but they “do not fit”. He said something about “inside ventilated” vs. “double ventilated inside”. The correct brake calipers would not be available, but they would still be looking “worldwide”. Is it really such a witchcraft to change some brake discs or does the workshop here become dubious? Or maybe I’ll make myself dubious? What would you advise me to talk to the workshop. What options do I have, what can I use? Ng?

Hello together! Had a slightly high oil level with my Phaeton v6 TDI 2007 and the lids on the injectors sucked… I then had them tested and cleaned. I installed them again, using new clamps, lids and seals. The operation, which tested the injectors, gave the old injectors new values, which I entered via VCDS. In idle and under 2,000 tours everything is wonderful, only as soon as I start to require some performance I hope for a little something that I forgot to infect again, but if I check several times, I don’t get on it! Does anyone know advice? No mistakes were filed, but I didn’t drive far…

The oil filter is hidden under the right air filter bottom in driving direction – and in order to get this part out you have to perform the below mentioned ‘pre-operations’ -underrun protection off -exhaust screw oil tank on -infeed air filter passenger side out -intake hose to throttle flap out -isomatte out -detach wiper cover -air filter box top out (4 cross slot) -air filter out…(must be new anyway) -Zündkabelkanal (2 screws) and na press down -pull out 3 ignition coils -air filter lower part (1 inbus screw on top of fender flange) from the two lower rubber bushings and ‘fold out’ – there is hardly a centimetre of air to the head -oil filter cover on and then return; have fun Jürgen

Hello, my VW dealer has told me that VW does not give any recommendations to allow the transmission oil to change,because one would have a longlife oil in the transmission…now I know the recommendations of ZF and they propose to allow all 120,000 km to replace the transmission oil. Since I am already used to it with my E-Class anyway regularly allow all 60-80.000 km to change the transmission oil, I will also want to do this with my Phaeton and because ZF is the manufacturer of the transmission from Phaeton “I intend to let ZF in Dortmund do the same because a colleague had it done there on his S 8 hat. Someone here in the forum had his transmission oil changed regularly, or you trust in the recommendations of Volkswagen to trust in the longlife oil.I prefer to change oil every 120,000 km,as at some point with a gearbox damage.So far I have had good experience with all my automatic models,with gear oil changes. e round ask how your experiences are like… Thank you for your info ́s gruss Uwe

Moin, I ask because I noticed that the temperature in my 3.0 TDI from 2005 (GP0) was always around 90°, while in the new GP3 from 2011 it is always 100°. Both values in normal average operation, i.e. neither particularly hot or cold day, nor crazy highway hats or hours of traffic jam. My question to the TDI drivers: Can you give me your values under these conditions, year of construction and GP “level” would be helpful additions. Background: My dealer or his workshop manager thinks that the 100° would be normal, but to me the value seems quite high. Or was the value of my GP0 too low? Greeting Andreas

Hi people who gave me a hint? Yesterday I gave my RSN810 a new M5 drive and now the RSN doesn’t give any sound anymore. The fuse for the infotainment system (right in the fuse box under steering wheel. I did something wrong (hopefully nothing broke) but I don’t know what. I already checked the flat cables in the device on a fixed seat. How could I limit the error?