Category: VW Phaeton Forum

I didn’t find anything suitable with the SuFu. I recently had the following problem: The first time I noticed this already months ago. I was standing on an edge (no curb) backwards on a slope and had to give a lot of gas to get over this very easy elevation. The same time in a parking lot, but on a flat surface. I had the impression that the Diva had to struggle hard to get over the light edge from the stand. Yesterday (I have now 80000 on the speedometer) I parked backwards on a middle slope and I had to give a lot of gas so that the party got a bit back in motion. One could sum up briefly: the whole seemed quite powerless. Already on the way there over the highway I was mercilessly pulled off from a pass on a straight track and even on a slight climb, and that in S-mode. I had the FSP read out a few weeks ago. No mistake. What can that be (again)?

Hello, I come back with the roof box from Sardinia, so that the Phaeton could also experience a proper ferry trip (Genoa-Porto Torres and back). In such a situation I am always happy about the possibility to drive up the chassis. But now to my actual question: In fact, in Sardinia a few annoying tiny Ameists have chosen my Phaeti as a shelter and live apparently below the openings for fixing the roof beams. I have al I don’t know what they live….but in the interior you get out of the left front window frame and climb over the amature board and then around the whole interior. Even in the trunk there were already some. That’s very annoying now and I have now taken up tips from other forums and put bait boxes in the interior. Hopefully this helps… Another idea of me is e s, sometimes with a garden hose in the openings of the roof carrier fixture to let water run in, but I’m afraid that it might not run out? I don’t want to break anything. The small flaps to cover are certainly not dense, so rain comes in, but where does the water come out again? Should I or shouldn’t I? I have a sunroof, by the way.

Good morning together, in the last weeks I had 2 x the effect that the following message was displayed in the display of the instrument cluster. Stop! Vehicle level too low. Last time this message appeared when I started the car out of the garage after a little longer service life. And today again at the start, however, the Phaeton was not 12 hours on a road with slope. Is that sometimes normal? After some time he pumps up and then the Mel disappears. I just want to be sure. At the moment I still have a guarantee. I wish you a lot of joy with the first rays of the sun and I would appreciate a short assessment. What I am surprised about. In the first year I did not have such a message at any time. Best regards AUDICLASSIC

Hello and good evening Netzgemeinde, after about 3 weeks of getting to know the Phaeton intensively and already some here in the forum as a “silent reader” of information, I would like to introduce myself briefly to you. As already in the title I am from Dortmund and have bought me a Phaeton 3D, V6 3,0 Diesel, 1.Zul. 2007 (GP1) 5-seater with 101,000 km. Some small things like exchange of the 1st glow candle, cleaning of the sliding roof drains, rep. of the right rear turn signaler has the Hä After a long time with a Pössl caravan as the only car. I have decided to move a car with a lot of comfort and I have to say, I am very pleased with the Phaeton. Somehow I don’t have the urge to drive fast at all – the sliding with the car is simply wonderful. But if it is in a hurry, there is a lot of torque – which I didn’t know so far (as with a I have already found the way to Zottel, he reprogrammed the door lock for me so that the doors close automatically from a speed of approx. 10 km/h. So, that should have been it for the time being. LG from DO Bernd

I want to open an extra thread here again, because the topic for some is not completely uninteresting and always new information comes to my ears. Here my current state of knowledge, after a longer conversation with a ZF operation, who knows all 3 possibilities of an oil change and also its pros and cons: Should I have confused something sorry I am not an engineer and the conversation was long and accurate. So, the 3 possibilities of a gear change are: a.) Be i VW leaves the oil, renews the sieve with seal and cleans the magnets including oil tray bottom and fills 9 liters of oil. b.) In a ZF operation the oil is also drained, but a special “suck/pump” is taken out of the converter 4-5 liters old oil !!! On request even an extra oil flush (with new oil) is carried out ! Sieb&seat are renewed, magnets & oil tray bottom are cleaned – as with VW and new oil filled. c.) Mr. Eckart ( http://www.automatikoelwechselsystem.de/impressum.html ) removes the oil, filters it and adds 600ml special cleaner to the Altoel and rinses the gearbox again. So he gets the “slag” out of the converter and cleans the whole system. This procedure is currently being tested by ZF and released in 4-5 months at the earliest. Otherwise everything is cleaned and renewed and refilled here as well. I don’t want to comment here because my knowledge base e is too small to praise or criticise any system. I’m only interested in passing on the information I’ve received! Unfortunately, the fact is that sometimes (1% risk) after a cleaning/draining or even the normal oil change still loose, jammed chips settle down and thus can lead to new problems already after 2 – 3000 km. I came to the topic because I sometimes feel a slight jerking when driving. I was told by ZF now advised (have 82,000 Km on the clock) to let us first see after the gear oil: “On the oil one can see how big the abrasion was and what has to be done”……so the exact statement. A fair suggestion, as I mean, before you let all exchanges/spins/cleaning…

Moin, let’s ask a question about the possibility to upgrade the original heater of the Phaeton with a telemodule. Is it possible to activate the heating by phone (either as sms or via app)? I would like to activate the Sztand heater in the car from a distance, because it is outside the FB range during the day and can be preheated for work in winter. It is a GP3 TDI long from BJ 2013 with VA outside refrigerator and R Dear Seat, otherwise everything is installed. Many greetings and thanks for replies kt 14101

Dear forum, in advance, please don’t let it degenerate into legal advice or error advice! I had picked up my diva almost 6 months ago in Ettlingen, a long way to Berlin. At that time the heater seemed to be unreliable. meanwhile it is locked and also some other minor problems are present (PDF sensors on front over react, suspension sinks after 3 weeks “critical” stand, GPS antenna has cracks). On the last day of warranty (conversion) is In addition to this, the thickness is almost as new from the inside with light leather and the history is good. With 8990€ for the GP2 and 160tkm it was also not at the top end of the equipment. The VK did not react to my efforts to find an economic repair for both sides. Only on the last day of the deadline, I was now offered a pick-up date (including threat that also the transport costs to over of course there is no car rental. Now there are three possibilities for pessimistic like me: 1. Undo the purchase contract if the repair without a rental car is not reasonable. Search for new Phaeton. Probably two months without a car (don’t use it professionally, it’s only luxury) 2. Let the car pick up in Berlin, pay for the return transport (even pick up hardly, since no hotel overnight stays are possible), notice that the defects are not completely fixed. Then the possibility 1. 3. Pay yourself for the repairs. So for me at least up to here stands firmly from private rather than from the dealer to buy.

Hello everybody! I owe you a photo of my little fat guy… On the occasion of a wild accident here yesterday at around 24 o’clock at speed 100 unbraked on a federal road. The animal jumped unexpectedly from the side in front of the hood. The animal had no chance. Those who see the picture more closely why. Hopefully my beloved fat guy is again quite the old one after the repair, because the so far 11,000 kilometers in about 4 months were just tra umhaft and *on wooden knock* without any problems and zigzags of the Diva. So, and now wait and see what the reviewer says… Dear greetings, Diamant ###edit: Only look at the picture if not sensitive or just when eating…

Moin Together, 2 weeks ago bought the thickness with steering wheel heater (have played the sales brochure extra and now read it again). After handover I found that neither the stationary heating goes nor the steering wheel heating. Today it is at VW since this morning. Now I read in the forum that there is thickness, which have the button for LRHzg on the steering wheel, but have nevertheless no Hzg installed. Then the button would be without function. Could be with me like that. Only I did the function Assuming they tell me today, this function does not exist, how can I behave then, because I have paid in principle with it. Improvement financially, subsequent installation of the LRhzg(is that possible at all, wooden steering wheel??). Write your opinion and experience to it. VG Rudi

Dear forum, I have a problem and need technical and moral support. This is the continuation of: Problem with the starter in the V8 and white smoke the second – V8 with now perhaps better fitting title… My Phaeton V8 year 2005 with 250tKm was about 4 weeks ago with Zottel, has received many new wear parts (brakes, crossbars, xenon burners, oil etc. ) a few codings and fresh TÜV. With plenty of 3t€ less I am the 500km again happy courage home g The sporadic problems of a non-rotating starter and the loss of cooling water could not understand Zottel. However, he did not suspect a defective cylinder head gasket and at some point the working day is also over. Understandable. However, the problems when starting were increasing. My free “house workshop” (that much I had not yet to do at the Phaeton in the two years) now diagnosed a defective starter. Costs approx. 1300 Euro plus material. For some time, however, I had suspected the cylinder head seal and now researched it: Cooling water loss: Abundant (10l in 6 months) tendency rising, without being visible from the outside. Check. When cooling water enters the combustion chamber, the exhaust mists especially in the cold season: It has sometimes fogged properly in winter. Check. When starting, there may be misignitions in the relevant cylinder: VCDS reports (not always!) when starting up up to 100 misignitions In the cylinder 1st check. I can handle tools and today dismantled the ignition module and spark plug from the cylinder 1 and found a “cooled water paddling pool”! Water up to the spark plug! Can I safely assume that I have a defective ZKD? (If important: A year ago the valve cover seal was renewed due to oil loss.) Did I damage the engine very much that I have driven some tKm with the damage? What for repair costs do I have to reckon with? I do this at the year of construction, considering that the rest of the vehicle is usable but also not necessarily in top condition? Greetings Benjamin