Category: VW up! Forum

Hello guys, we drive a black up of 2013. Last time it happens often that we have to make the outside of the windshield also the inside of the windshield ice-free. How can it be that the car gets so wet from the inside? We have no sliding roof and the floor mats are m.E. also dry. Older vehicles of VW (golf and co) used to have the foils under the door panels where water would come through. Does anyone have an explanation / solution? much read and found on the Internet but no solution yet!

Here are the changes to the up! new model year 2014: – Entfall take Up! 55kW (with and without BMT) – Entfall Sondermodell black up! und white up! + Lackierung white pearl ( nicht für take) + Modell Cross up! + Option chrome pack Volkswagen Exclusive for Highline + Option leather steering wheel for move + Option 16 mstellung von Langstab auf Kurzstabantenne + Maps & More now with Live Information Maps & More “live”: In addition to the previous range: – Bluetooth Terering – Live Information for weather, local search, traffic information Cost: 4 weeks free, then one-time €29.95 Prerequisite: customer’s own mobile phone with Internet access

Good morning to the gentlemen, I had my Up! for inspection in November and even before the warranty had expired, I addressed two defects that were to be repaired. Outer bearings clacked and a high frequency whistle when pressing the brake As far as the acquisition of the costs of VW to the AH was confirmed and the repair was started at the beginning of December. The outer bearings were also done immediately. However, the whistle turned out to be a faulty ABS system, which was also exchanged rde, but since now 6 weeks can not be connected to the engine control unit, because there are no correct codes from VW. Has someone experienced this before? Generally I have no problem with the duration of the repair, because I have a free rental car, but I would like to have my car back again.

Hello together, we are about to buy an up. The car would be used mostly for the rides to work (a distance 30 km, ~25 km highway, rest of town) as well as for smaller routes across Cologne and the surrounding area. Now the question inevitably arises which engine it should be. We tend at the moment rather to the 60hp engine, but get the 75hp motor to the heart of many other (not up) drivers. Is the 75hp engine on the highway worth? That the engines are the same and is the 75hp engine, especially at the desired speed of 120 kmh – 130 kmh, similar to the 60hp engine? Is there a big difference if you want to accelerate out of a construction site of 80 kmh? If in doubt I would just switch down. Does the 75hp engine consume more petrol at 120 – 130? How do I notice with the speed of the engine? the advantages of the 75hp engine? Does it speed up faster and has more reserves? I’m not a driver who likes to turn high, I prefer to swim quietly with. You can’t really give full throttle in professional traffic anyway. I would be grateful for your experience and know. I’m still quite undecided at the moment if it’s wrong to save on the engine or if the 60hp engine is not even the better choice (noise, consumption, etc.).

Hello, I had 3 strong battery discharges so far, which I can’t explain. The first time the battery was completely empty after a weekend. That’s 2 months ago. The last two times the car had to fight hard to jump on (the battery sign flashed on it). Only last Saturday it happened again. In the afternoon I drove the car out of the garage to pull the tire screws. When I drove it back into the garage and parked it I went a little too early from the Kup It did not make any jumper but it was noticeable that I went a tick too early from the clutch. In the evening it then came to the mentioned cause problem again. Can it be that at this too early from the clutch go the stop/start automatic was triggered or otherwise any electrical processes that lead to a fast discharge? Or is simply the battery defective? It should be noted that I have the car every day approx. 50km drive. Occasionally there is a day where I do not move the car, but that is very rare. Greeting Michael

Here are the exterior parts so you can upgrade your up a little. Chrome aperture for front fog lights: 1S0 853 399 A 2ZZ – Cover ring front fog lights left – 8,27€ 1S0 853 400 A 2ZZ – Cover ring front fog lights right – 8,27€ Chrome side panel 2 Doors: 1S3 853 515 2ZZ – Protection panel for front door left – 34,99€ 1S3 853 516 2ZZ – Protection panel for front door right – 34,99€ 1S3 853 753 2ZZ – Protection panel for rear door left – 19,40€ 1S3 853 754 2ZZ – Protection panel for right door h inten – 19.40€ Chrome side strip 4 Doors: 1S4 853 515 A 2ZZ – Protection bar for door left front – 34.87€ 1S4 853 516 A 2ZZ – Protection bar for door right front – 34.87€ 1S4 853 753 A 2ZZ – Protection bar for door left back – 19.34€ 1S4 853 754 A 2ZZ – Protection bar for door right back – 19.34€ Mirror caps Chrome: 5Z1 857 537 A 2ZZ – Cover cap mirror left – 94.96€ 5Z1 857 538 C 2ZZ – Cover cap mirror left – 94.96€ Emblem black/white: 1S0 853 433 B 4M1 – Emblem Black – 10.53€ 1S0 853 433 C 4M1 – Emblem White – 10,53€ The interior parts. Aperture steering wheel with up sign (attention only for high-up!): 1S0 498 685 A NOR – Aperture steering wheel at the bottom with UP sign – 15,41€ Aperture for shift lever “pure white” 1S0 711 144 A WB8 – Aperture switching lever pure white – 6,25€ 1S0 711 113 F LIZ/LIY – aperture leather action guide – 40,10€ (I see no difference between LIZ or LIY, but here best ask your friend) light switch (without light automatic): 6R0 941 531 F APV – Lichtsc holder without front fog lamp – 56,88€ 6R0 941 531 G APV – light switch with front fog lamp – 56,88€ (If I can do this with the automatic light, I’ll carry it) Climate control: 1S0 819 045 G OQP – climate control without air conditioning – 53,49€ 1S0 819 045 N OQP – climate control with air conditioning – 53,49€ A complete door panel would have to be ordered for the door operation, which I spare you

I ask here in the round of renowned VW drivers and inside It has been discussed again and again in make thread here, but output I have not seen yet, therefore I would like to open up an own topic. According to up! drivers but also as shown under www.spritmonitor.de , probably with many drivers , there is a deviation of the BC to the real consumption. so on average by half a litre, that are expressed in % with the low consumption already worlds… I ask so stupidly, because with my old Smart, I had retrofitted a BC and it also showed deviations at first. but there I was able to adjust again and again by a few %, until after approx. 3-4 refuellings then quite exactly tuned… So, is there any possibility there to adjust something? LG from Vienna

I’ve had my up! for a few weeks and I’ve noticed that the steering is kind of uneven. When I steer with a lot of feeling, I notice minimal rest when you can put it that way. Nothing bad, but once you notice something like that, you always pay attention to it. Is that normal with the up!, unlike my last beetle, for example, or can a ball bearing or similar be defective?

Hello, with my small budget I have long thought about which car it should be. For me it is the UP! in the Take Up Version (Cool and Sound) , the Skoda Citigo and the Hyundai I10 (Mod. 2015 ). The cost is all pretty much the same (with the equipment at VW and Skoda is almost identical and the Hyundai still has something on it) He is meant for my wife, who drives with it maybe 1500 kilometers a month. Somehow I tend to the VW. How do you see this?

Hello, wanted to ask today at the “Friendly” (well, more or less) winter tire prices for the up my wife. As summer tires are from factory “185/55 R15 82T”. Wanted to know the price for this size, or “175/65 R14 82T”. Prefers steel rim, because my wife slightly overlooks curb stones in the snow. I was then told that only the size of 165/70 R14 82T registered in the bill would fit on the up. On my note of the delivery size (185er) and the still 5 other size I then got the answer, which only applies to summer tyres (?) for winter tyres went only the 165 (others they wouldn’t have). I know that not all sizes have a snow chain clearance, but so? In the EC certificate there is no restriction (summer/winter) with it. Can anyone tell me if the statement of the contract workshop is correct, or if “only” should be sold. Thank you.