Category: Toyota Carina, Avensis, Camry Forum

Good evening, since I have been one of the Avensis drivers for a few days, I have a question at once. (Yes, countless threads in this forum and other posts on the internet on the subject of engine oil I have already searched … maybe I just stand on the hose.)The following car has become it: Toyota Avensis Combi Edition, 1.8 petrol, Built 11/2013 – Lt. Manual I can drive: 20w50 and 15w40, API class or SM multi-range oil OR 10w30, 5w30, 5w20, 0w20, API class SL, SM, or But ILSAC was filled up by the authorized dealer the 5w40 SXR, according to Google API SM / CF, partly SN, this should be here: Elf EVOLUTION SXR 5W-40 API SM / CF Is it possible that the 5w40 is filled up, which is not listed in the manual? (according to Toyota 0800er Hotline is the i.O. API SN would be “better” than SM. For the i.O.) That the 5w40 is not worse than a 5w30 I have already learned and the specification fits yes. But what are these then in the operating instructions “before I also had the mobile 1 0w40 in the garage, specification API SM would also fit. In theory, I could take it just as much to fill up if something is missing?! Would not like to mix things up and give the engine what it had from the beginning. But can it be exactly that in the context of the inspection a different oil comes up again. But what about the warranty, if there is something on the engine, if there is something on the engine. ? How do you see that? … probably think again about things that others wouldn’t itch. But I’m curious 😉

Good day, I’ve been having a high frequency pipe for some time, which comes from the engine compartment or exactly said where the flat belt and LiMa is. A visit to the workshop revealed that it comes from the LiMa. Was first also my guess. Now yesterday the LiMa was exchanged and today I notice it still whistles. It seems to me that it comes somewhere from below, but it is very difficult to say exactly. Early when the engine is still cold, it whistles more. Driving is not so much to hear anymore. With old ventilation it whistles somehow more strongly, however, also the speed increases something. So now does not necessarily have to have something to do with ventilation?! If you turn off the ventilation and other consumers, you notice no difference. It whistles then about immediately. In your room you can hardly hear it, only if it is quiet and you listen closely. Outside you hear it more clearly and if the bonnet is open and you approach the belt, h If you get some gas, you don’t hear anything anymore. Very rainy. If the speed goes down then you can hear a bit whistling in the interior. When accelerating in the first and second gear you can also hear a quiet whistle when the engine is still cold. The smell is very close to that, on the video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9j-yZ-TfVDw Data about the vehicle: Toyota Avensis 1.8l petrol 147 hp, BJ 2012, 35000 KM I would be happy if someone could say something about this problem? n new workshop visit can become very expensive again.

Hello, our recently acquired Toyota Avensis (T27) Kombi 2.2 D4-D (110KW/150hp) with a mileage of now approx. 111,000 km weakens a little with regard to the manual transmission, the circuit is rough at temperatures below 5 degrees Celsius, as soon as you have driven about 30 kilometers, the problem in the range of gears 3 to 5 is already noticeably better, whereby it is subjectively still “something”, in cold condition and below 5 degrees Celsius My question(s): 1.) Is there a gear oil change remedy here!? The Toyota workshop recommends this first – would like to make a test drive soon and then possibly carry out a gear oil change? 2.) Which specification must the gear oil meet, on the Internet one reads much, is the 75W90 correct and specification APL 4+? 3.) Could a change of brake fluid (DOT 4) possibly, because hydraulic brake and clutch system for improvement s 4.) Exchange or lubrication of the rope hoists (if any)? For advice, hints, suggestions I would be grateful and remain with kind greetings Poldi76 P.s.: …. always good ride !

Hello, since 07/07 have an Avensis Kombi D4D and the seat heating driver and passenger was defective from the beginning. The heating mats were then replaced on guarantee. However, it is now that the seat heating with full setting (rotary wheel) never brings the desired heating power. My wife is very sensitive there. Again with Toyota I realized that with 3 other cars of the same type a seat test together with the master brought the same result. atein now also at the end. It seems in his opinion to be a Toyoty Avensis problem. Who can help me? Is the problem known? Does it bother you too? What can be done? Thank you Greetings Finanzleibi

Hi, everybody, we’re just about to buy a car. So far, my better half had a polo (9N3) and I had an old Vectra A that now has to go at the aged age of 24 years. So, since we also have a cottage with garden, there’s always something to transport with the trailer or bigger in the trunk. So a station wagon should come from… From budget it will probably be something up to 7000 or a maximum of 8000. In the selection I took some easy: Avensis T25, Ford Mondeo, Opel Ve ctra C and Skoda Octavia. Now every manufacturer and every model has its own quirks, that’s why my questions. It’s supposed to be more of a gasoline truck. We drive everyday rather short distance, only on weekends times over land. Overall also rather cozy than fast. Rather a quiet, quiet car, than a sporty drone. For the Avensis thus only the 1.8 or 2 liter gasoline truck is considered. I avoid the Xenon headlights if I can. There is something else to consider. or tips? I also found one that would agree to us, especially since my girlfriend knows someone at the car dealership. Is probably more overpriced at such a car dealership, maybe I can still make them feel the AHK incl. assembly from the cross…. http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?…

The days as an autolaie fell from my eyes like dandruff, that the sounds in the warm-up phase, which I have observed for a very long time (years?), could come from the control chain. However, I also read here that it is doubtful whether such old Toyotas have a control chain at all (alternative seems to be a timing belt). According to the information in the vehicle certificate it is probably a Toyota Avensis Liftback 2.0 T22. Automatic and petroler from the registration year 1998. the steering chain? If I remember correctly, a rotational exchange of the timing belt (?) had been made after maybe 60 or 75,000 kilometers. I could probably still read this in the corresponding booklet. I avoid driving with the vehicle at the moment, because it is supposed to be dangerous if the part is tearing. Since I will take the car somewhere in the next week – unfortunately I am here in the counter despite some contacts with workshops not yet enthusiastic about a voice – want to be present, I try to find out something here with you. Should one in such a case better visit a workshop specialized in Toyota? Thank you!

Zühülf! Wouldn’t have thought to post here so quickly because of a defect … Sister just on the way with the Avensis (T27) when suddenly the warning check parking braking system is displayed. Apparently, the brake was automatically solved at the start. Just checked the responsible fuse in the engine compartment and that is ok, cables look good so far. Manual operation of the parking brake switch does not result in any feedback. chem on/off the engine, short drive and a new attempt. If, despite the warning signal, you continue driving, you quickly get an annoying acoustic warning … Means: the parking brake can no longer be pulled. Question(s): What can be the problem and is there the trick17 or must a workshop be consulted (possible costs?)? Thank you very much!

Hello together, have a new problem with my 97er Picnic. This has ABS and as far as I know no load-dependent brake force distributor (LSPV) on the rear axle. For a short time the rear axle is immediately blocked with a slightly sharper brake and then the ABS starts to regulate. I do not have to drive fast. Already at approx. 30-50 km/h a little stronger stepped on the brake, already it squeaks at the rear and the ABS regulates. The whole happens well before the front wheels start to br The whole thing started about 1-2 weeks ago. I noticed it when braking before a traffic light. Now it gets stronger and comes almost with every slightly stronger braking. About 9 months ago I had a fixed brake cylinder at the front (cuff of the guide bolt was torn, therefore water penetrated, guide bolts rusted and clamped). After a freeway ride the rim was hot and steamed. I made the brake caliper again popular and with new machines. For safety I was also connected to the TÜV and had the braking effect checked. All values were ok. Also a month later at the HU the brake values were impeccable. What could be the overbraking of the rear axle? Thank you and greeting, Niko

Hello, I drive the AV 2,4 VVTi and have had the following problem for about a month: if the engine is lukewarm the car takes sporadic no gas. Sometimes it happens when starting up, the car then rolls in the range between 2000- 3000 rpm only the pointer of the rev meter the car rolls in front of it and only from 3000 rpm the AV gets thrust and runs. In this speed range between 2000-3000 rpm the car does not react at all to the accelerator. d nothing happens until 3000 rpm is reached. It happens when starting up and also while driving, when the engine has not yet reached the operating temperature. After that it runs again without any problems. Does anyone have an idea or know what it might be? Thanks.

Hello dear screwdriver, I searched for a long time in the forum but unfortunately did not find what could help me further. It is about the t 25 2,2 l with 177 diesel hp. On the topic: There was no fire on any of the three control lights. The car has never passed into the emergency run until then. Nevertheless, the car did not pull around as desired.. I cleaned the AGR and determined that the valve did not close properly. But I still installed it again. At the test drive from the beginning the three Lamps (vsc, trc and engine) lit. The car ran the same way as before. At some point the lights went out again, but came back again. This game repeated itself and then the engine went into emergency run at irregular intervals. By restarting the engine you could outsmart the system for a short time again and again. Error code P0400 would be read out? AGR defective. So new AGR installed (of workshop) and, yes, everything in the old. Nothing changed. Lamps A second AGR would be installed, but it did not come to a new result. What to do now? It worked everything except for the loss of power at the bottom before. Once expand and install again and everything is broken, it can not be, or. Can it be that there may be a cable break. Hope you can give me a little motivation. Greeting Stephan