Category: Toyota Land Cruiser, C-HR, RAV4 Forum

My Rav 4 / 177 hp / 4 years old / 31000 km has VSC/ engine problem / 5. Injection nozzle has been renewed and announced that the expensive repairs will only come, as I only drive short distances and p.a. 8.ooo km. Another workshop recommended me to push out the expected expensive repairs ( Turbocharger etc.) by driving 100 km at a time each month (of which 50 km to warm up and 5 km with 5000 rpm in high gear for free burning in the loader. Does anyone have any experience? White jem and reasonable alternatives?

Hello, we’ve been having the following problem for a few days: blower doesn’t work, ABS control lights up, therefore ABS doesn’t work, hand brake control lights up. Not always, but often. Just come up together. When the control lights are off, ABS and blowers go. Also noticed: when giving gas blowers went on, when taking gas away or braking blowers went off. Hangs with gear or movement together, because in the empty run (gap/take off) it doesn’t spark. in the latter fa ll the control lights remained on. Although it does not have anything to do with it, the brake lining HL outside is held only by a pin, the second is stuck next to it in the empty, the layer sits crooked on the disc, but does not block. Must have been like this since purchase (used) in 2006. Would be grateful for ideas.

HALLO, THE RAV 4 DOES A GPS SENDER ON BORD, OR? The search function when the car is turned off, does it also work via the mobile phone?! Do I need a “separate tracker?

Hello, I need your help/opinion with my Toyota Rav 4 2.2 Diesel 133 HP ,BJ 2008. Abrupt power loss during the ride and sometimes from the beginning. (As if the turbo shuts down and sometimes doesn’t turn on at all) Error memory is empty and no messages either. – Underpressure hoses all renewed – Air flow meter renewed – Diesel filter renewed – AGR cleaned and contacted – Turbo controls and knows no damage or loss (if it clears, sc Does he also mention ) – Injection and nozzles also contacted and ok I’m already at a loss … Greeting and thank you in advance AS

For “driving information” the average consumption is displayed for each minute in the form of a vertical bar. If an “E” appears in the bar, then that means that 30 WH have been recuperated. Questions about this: 1. Sometimes one of the bars is interrupted. What does that mean? 2. Occasionally only part of an “E” can be seen. What does this mean? It cannot be a pixel error, because the respective bars migrate with their fragmentary E or their interruption after link s.

Hello dear community, I searched for a suitable and economical Fzg for a long time and landed at the new C HR. I drove 2x sample and found it quite pleasant, except for the noise, which did not stop me from buying, because I got a good offer in my eyes and the ride was quite good in itself. I drove some AB up to max. 170 km/h, otherwise around 130..; it was actually louder in the car, in addition maybe the wind, the route was quite hilly. I drive about 4x a year longer routes (500-1000km) and according to weather conditions and other factors drive more quickly (about 150) on the AB. Does someone have similar paths behind them with the new C HR and can report on the acoustic load, respectively give warning? Maybe the car will be a bit quieter if it gets warm well..? Would there otherwise be reliable workshops that perform efficient noise insulation? Greetings and thank you for all good tips and tips. iDrive

Hey, I hope I’m right here, I need a little advice about the Rav4 and maybe also about the Audi Q3, since the two cars are interesting to me and my better half. So far I have driven a Yaris (2000) and was very satisfied with my Toyota. Now we want a bigger car, because it is getting really exhausting with the small 3-door and our 2 children (always crawling back and strap on or pull out) and there he is now on colder days. In our narrow selection are now the RAV4 or the Q3. Toyota is known for its reliability, which I would like to enjoy very much again. Especially I believe that workshop visits are significantly cheaper than with Audi. Can one perhaps choose something like this about on average, what running costs of cars are? With the RAV4 there are many hybrid models, which are still in our price budget, however, I heard that there are problems I would just like to have some opinions on the vehicles in comparison especially with regard to reliability and running costs.. Are there problem engines, if there are different ones? We are looking for a gasoline engine from the year 2016.

Hello forum, according to my workshop, the battery of my RAV4 is at the end. Although it was only 3 years old, it was already deep-loaded and therefore only diagnosis of the battery tester at 30% of its capacity. Now I have such a charger of a Swedish company, which has a ‘recond.’ function, i.e. the battery is deliberately overloaded with just under 16 volts, so that the gas formation mixes the battery acid and thus the capacity is increased again. But I would like to know whether the charging can be carried out in the built-in state (without jamming), or whether the on-board electronics may be damaged at a charging voltage of 16 volts. I would like to avoid the battery expansion because otherwise electronic settings may be lost, or other undesirable effects (here it was already mentioned that the steering angle sensor did not work afterwards ?) occur. . Can anyone help here? VG mt123

Hello, I have a youngtimer RAV4 from 2003 for about 2 months now. I notice that the engine first turns up after every start, at the cold start quite to about 2000 rpm for the first 1 to 2 seconds. After that the speed drops immediately to about 1400 rpm and stays there when I start. Is this normal? It is my first petrol for about 30 years, I am used to diesel, the idle at the cold start. That’s not good?! You should not have an engine high hen ?! I didn’t find anything in the instructions, but a bit strange to start driving. There it says: “After starting immediately, don’t run in idle” Next, a little smaller print says: “For vehicles that are not intended for the European market, let run after the start about 10 sec in idle” Is this due to our funny fuel murk mix ??? I basically let my engines run in idle depending on the temperature 10 to 20 sec before I start driving e, I think it’s better for the oil cycle. What do you mean, can you let it turn up after launch, or can you even adjust it?

Moin, I am now ready to go into the 2nd phase to acquire a RAV4 -> Angucking and testing. Should be an XA2 from Mod. 2004 (round fog lights, indicator in the headlight). Unfortunately, I find again and again contradictory information about the number of driving stages of the automatic transmission: Some offer 4 steps, other 5 steps… What’s right? Thank you very much Stephan