Category: Toyota Land Cruiser, C-HR, RAV4 Forum

Had the pleasure yesterday as a replacement car for a few hours to drive a C-HR – I take on basic model without many extras. When starting you have to make sure that the engine is already running but you hear. When driving off then the petrol engine switches to it – the stepless transmission or whatever is installed there, is more than getting used to – yes it turns partly very high you come to the right area of the display whatever this may be called. The design is very striking, e.g. you can put the tea cup on the attached eyes or spoiler – at the first sight 2 years ago we thought an insect comes to me. The trunk is very small – due to the coupe shape. I have more or less the predecessor model the U rban Cruiser – I am happy with it – would not be an alternative for us.

Hello together, I might want to buy a RAV4. Gen.4 Now I’m not sure whether diesel or petrol. Whether automatic or manual. The most important is the economy. When it comes to consumption it’s clear the diesel, but there’s more. Service and repairs. Which engine is more reliable, has generally less repair costs. Are the service costs different? Does the automatic machine have other disadvantages that can turn into costs besides additional consumption? In short: Which version Is in the long term the cheapest and most reliable? I live in the countryside, ride 5-10tkm annually. Rare under 10km, mostly about 25km per route. Important! Insurance and tax please do not consider other countries other tax models! Greeting motoquero

So, now it has happened … I say goodbye to the RAV4. Since 2004 it has been an absolutely faithful and reliable companion. Does anyone remember our time together in the Jumy forum? Long ago, my RAV was probably one of the last survivors and still wears the sticker on the rear door. Last night the sale was sealed. I hope that the second owner has a long and much pleasure with the car. THANK YOU, my fat guy! St.

Hello, I need your help. I need to replace an H11 bulb. Have looked under the bonnet and you can get there; but not so well. And you don’t see much. Now my question: how do I go before? How is the lock for the bulb base? Have somehow no plan! I’m also not so the “screw”. Read here just that it should be very easy. Thank you very much

Hello, good that I sold the RAV4 in the summer of 2017. Now it will be much more expensive in the insurance (from old type class 27 to new type class 31 in the partial cascade) and it was already “expensive”. Conditioned by the new 2019-ner model I pushed again on a new RAV4, but – no diesel – hardly towing load (1,650 kg RAV4 Hybrid Allwheel vs. 2,500 kg Tiguan 190 PS Diesel) – and again a strong sip on it in the insurance When there is again a RAV4 diesel with four wheel and more trailer load? Greeting

New question about RAV 4 (2023). Why does it always take so long that the phone connects to the Bluetooth from the car? So listen to music from the phone via Bluetooth in the car. Feels it takes an eternity!!!

Gude! Unfortunately you don’t read anything about the new model here. Do you have to switch to the Buschtaxi side for this? After a Defender 110 D300 I drove today (temporarily relatively short) with a J25 Executive and was very positively surprised. Had the Defender a 6 cylinder with 300 hp, the J25 only 4 cylinders and 204 hp. But I was quite fast and relaxed on the way. The turning circle was also felt smaller. Extremely annoying however, I found the tinkering when you allowed the speedy It only slightly exceeds. I’m also sometimes high with a reduction in the hill … has also tinkered all the time. Can’t be normal? But can anyone give me the following missing values? Acceleration 0-100 turning circle Beautiful WE already.

Hello, recently the Toyota Rav 4 (built in 1995, about 240,000km) of a friend starts to buck. Since he and his free workshop don’t know any more, I thought that I could possibly get the one or other useful tip from the MT forum. The problem can be described as follows: The car usually starts normal. However, the problem appears after about 15-20 minutes driving time, because the gas is not properly accepted and it comes to ignitions, so that the engine goes off. If the engine is still on, it should also be noted that there is a power loss. When starting again, it takes a certain time until the engine is running properly again. It is very noticeable that this problem arises when the car was driven before and this is started again after a short time. (So it has not become cold yet) In individual cases, the car does not jump again after it has gone out. but an employee on the phone rejected it directly on the grounds that nothing would be stored there if no engine control light was burning. (I am used to it by the way of my C-Class, since errors are also stored there, if no lamp is burning) The workshop master from the free workshop then started to switch to the spark plugs, which did not bring any change. He told me that at the 1st spark plug oil vo However, this could also result from the fact that the spark plug was not tightened enough. After that 1 set of ignition cables was replaced. However, this did not remove the problem. Furthermore, the throttle valve was cleaned and the contacts in the ignition distributor were sanded off. Since 3 question marks were also visible in the face, my friend initially stopped the project to change the ignition coil, ignition distributor and ignition distributor fingers, since no clear diagnosis was found. But this can only be a coincidence. And now the question to you: Is there possibly someone among you who has had this problem before or has heard about it? Or does someone know which direction to go in? Thanks in advance

At the beginning of the year, the new C-HR is starting to sell and the first dealers have already been supplied with exhibition vehicles, as I noted yesterday. Also, many interesting videos and vehicle presentations are now available:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9_r3B0NfT8https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgU4lLqTEK8https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAypVN_e0Rc How do you rate the new C-HR? few previous owners of the previous model in the near or distant future on the note to change. Or are the current prices too high for you? A good but not overly equipped team D is at least very fast at over 40k € and in this price class the competition (now also many pure electric vehicles) is not exactly small. Qualitatively and optically but certainly also very successful. I think about the new Lexus LBX (if you Toyota and a fullh The new Hyundai Kona fully electrified fits into the price category, the Volvo EX30 probably the same. All three did not exist yet at the market start of the first C-HR and are only a small selection of alternatives. What does the C-HR offer for the really ambitious prices more than others? Design is anyway pure taste matter and the technical competence is certainly considerable also in the competition. Especially in the BEV models (Volvo EX30, Hyundai) Kona). So I don’t think it will be easy to repeat the market success of the previous Coupe High Rider, given the new competition.

Hello dear community! My girlfriend owns a CHR Hybrid (Bj 2020) with which she regularly has problems. It happened more often now that she had to make use of Toyota’s Eurocare because her vehicle could not be started anymore. Sometimes he can not even open with the key. She was after each time at the contract workshop and left the car there for the first time a week, hoping to reproduce the problem, but everything in vain. The workshop repeatedly presses the key into her hand and says everything is fine. A change of the battery was not considered necessary and there are no solutions. The only suggestions that came were that she should drive the vehicle more or get a power bank to the start aid….Great tips for a vehicle almost costs 40 K. The problems with the battery usually came as soon as she was on holiday (10 to 14 days), but recently also after 3 days and my girlfriend slowly gets crying with the car. She usually drives four times a week to work and back again (each 30 min for 17 km) and sometimes smaller rides like e.g. shopping, washing a car etc.. A few times a year to her family in southern Germany. We have now brought a power bank for the purpose of starting aid (Flylinktech) and she had watched the last time as her Eurocare started aid, where the Lord has attached the clamps. After their vacation, we wanted to give a boost to the dead starter battery and realized that the cables are far too short to attach the places that Eurocare used to each other. We both are now little car-wandered and of course want to break nothing wrong and perhaps. All power banks at Amazon have such short cables, so I assume that you can attach the one used elsewhere as well as to the place used by Eurocare. The question is now, where do we fix the minus cable? My guess would be the screw in the “power box” at the bottom left, where the red cable leads. To illustrate, I added two pictures. One of the complete engine compartment, the circles are the places that Eurocare used. And a picture of the power box, where at least the plus cable comes in. We are grateful for every help.