Category: Toyota Land Cruiser, C-HR, RAV4 Forum

Hey, I hope I’m right here, I need a little advice about the Rav4 and maybe also about the Audi Q3, since the two cars are interesting to me and my better half. So far I have driven a Yaris (2000) and was very satisfied with my Toyota. Now we want a bigger car, because it is getting really exhausting with the small 3-door and our 2 children (always crawling back and strap on or pull out) and there he is now on colder days. In our narrow selection are now the RAV4 or the Q3. Toyota is known for its reliability, which I would like to enjoy very much again. Especially I believe that workshop visits are significantly cheaper than with Audi. Can one perhaps choose something like this about on average, what running costs of cars are? With the RAV4 there are many hybrid models, which are still in our price budget, however, I heard that there are problems I would just like to have some opinions on the vehicles in comparison especially with regard to reliability and running costs.. Are there problem engines, if there are different ones? We are looking for a gasoline engine from the year 2016.

Hello forum, according to my workshop, the battery of my RAV4 is at the end. Although it was only 3 years old, it was already deep-loaded and therefore only diagnosis of the battery tester at 30% of its capacity. Now I have such a charger of a Swedish company, which has a ‘recond.’ function, i.e. the battery is deliberately overloaded with just under 16 volts, so that the gas formation mixes the battery acid and thus the capacity is increased again. But I would like to know whether the charging can be carried out in the built-in state (without jamming), or whether the on-board electronics may be damaged at a charging voltage of 16 volts. I would like to avoid the battery expansion because otherwise electronic settings may be lost, or other undesirable effects (here it was already mentioned that the steering angle sensor did not work afterwards ?) occur. . Can anyone help here? VG mt123

Hello, I have a youngtimer RAV4 from 2003 for about 2 months now. I notice that the engine first turns up after every start, at the cold start quite to about 2000 rpm for the first 1 to 2 seconds. After that the speed drops immediately to about 1400 rpm and stays there when I start. Is this normal? It is my first petrol for about 30 years, I am used to diesel, the idle at the cold start. That’s not good?! You should not have an engine high hen ?! I didn’t find anything in the instructions, but a bit strange to start driving. There it says: “After starting immediately, don’t run in idle” Next, a little smaller print says: “For vehicles that are not intended for the European market, let run after the start about 10 sec in idle” Is this due to our funny fuel murk mix ??? I basically let my engines run in idle depending on the temperature 10 to 20 sec before I start driving e, I think it’s better for the oil cycle. What do you mean, can you let it turn up after launch, or can you even adjust it?

Moin, I am now ready to go into the 2nd phase to acquire a RAV4 -> Angucking and testing. Should be an XA2 from Mod. 2004 (round fog lights, indicator in the headlight). Unfortunately, I find again and again contradictory information about the number of driving stages of the automatic transmission: Some offer 4 steps, other 5 steps… What’s right? Thank you very much Stephan

Moin. Now I am proud owner of a black C-HR. Black are also many plastic parts on the C-HR, and that should stay that way. My concern is that they become unsightly over time. For the black plastic parts in the engine compartment I use the spray ATOMEX plastic and tire care. This always looks very good. I am unsure if I can use this also for the many parts on the outside of the body. The manufacturer recommends this, but maybe there are better alternatives? Thank you for your recommendations.

Hello, Before I go to the workshop on Monday morning (I’m in Sweden), I wanted to ask you if you can see that the tyre has to be replaced (see picture). Am I pessimistic, but maybe I’m wrong)? I didn’t measure it specifically, but from the outside the cut looks like 8-10mm. The 6mm rule also applies here – but also for straight cuts? The spare wheel has hit on it. To the next workshop it is 30km, after home e are then 200km again, everything a little stupid. Thanks for your answers already!

First of all, I am 1.86 in size and with 130kg also well equipped on belly. Drive at the moment a Skoda Kodiaq, in front of a Seat Tarraco, sometimes also the Seat Ateca or the VW Tiguan. None of the vehicles has made so little interior out of as much vehicle length and vehicle width as the RAV 4. If I put the driver’s seat on me, at the back of the Tiguan sometimes 7-8 cm legroom for the passengers. I find that frightening for the second largest SUV in the Toyota range. M in comparison to the Kodiaq or the Seats it feels like in a Sardinian box (ok exaggerated, but I felt freer in the Astra H 5door than in the RAV4. Unfortunately I don’t get around to having to choose a Toyota due to change of employer. I can’t really imagine a holiday with 5 people right now, especially because of the small space at the back. Or are there still differences between 4×2 and 4×4?

Hello everybody, I haven’t written a few years anymore, so I hope everyone here is doing well, just before the holidays. I would like to ask the specialists here for assistance with a small problem: I received a Land Cruiser Prado, built in 2011, from a friend who is soon to move from Marrakesh to Asia, and I would like to register it in Croatia. Last week I am from Marrakesh 4,400km to mi The car was not built for the European market, so the whole thing runs out of here on a single permit, in any case it is possible in principle, but it is more cumbersome, because it can not get CoC papers for it. Now I really lack all the information about the car that one would like from a car, for example – engine capacity – PS – the exact type designation (or the European counterpart to it), that is a J15, ode r? – maybe even a link to a detailed description (equipment, operating instructions) Apparently I will retrofit fog lights and closing lights (or don’t I just find the Schlater?) for the typing, but this comes here at about 500-600€, so I would spend that already.The individual approval comes to about 2-3 T€ Basically the car is well in shot, makes itself well in the Moroccan desert, where I leave it all out last year a few days now the car has new tires, a new clutch, brakes, etc… I would be very grateful to you for all the information or links to this model.

Since the 1st annual service of my RAV4 Plug-In Hybrid 12 days ago I have now several times, recently almost daily the message “Motor is started to protect the system. EV operation is not possible. I start in the morning with a fully charged battery with an indicated range of e.g. 71 km in EV mode. I drive in “Auto-HV mode”. Suddenly, after only about 20 km, the display shows the following message: “Motor to protect the system started. EV driving is not available. However, the display still shows the power consumption and not the fuel consumption, as would otherwise be the case if the vehicle can no longer drive electrically. In the MyT app the computer displays the approximately correct 50 km for details. A mess! And above all, despite the fully charged battery, I do not have the possibility of my RAV4 plug-in hybrid electric or as Hybr id, but has to drive it as a pure petrol with unused heavy battery. However, the fuel consumption is not displayed, but the power consumption, as above. By the way, if the battery had previously driven empty, was simply continued without text message in HV mode as it should be. From my Toyota workshop, my dealer I have already received the many reasons mentioned by Toyota for this message and the “motor start”. However, this is unsatisfactory. end, because the vehicle can then be used even less than in hybrid mode, when the “engine start” occurs again and again, and even less so than the RAV4 Hybrid. Otherwise, I can come to the workshop for further investigation, which I must then do.

Hi guys, I’m looking for a little SUV that’s a little bit more off-road, and has more than just the normal all-wheel system. In the last or the penultimate car picture “Offroad” I read a snow test with different off-road cars and SUV ́s and the author wrote that there probably is an additional off-road button in the Tojota RAV, which causes something like a lock in the gearbox or lower gears. Do you know what I mean? Who knows if or which small off-road vehicles or SUVs may have such a thing. I know that the big ones have such off-road characteristics, only the problem is that they are actually too big for me. With usually 500 – 800kg more weight must move, and I want to avoid this, if possible? Where I am sure this is the Suzuki Grande Vitara. Only there I do not know exactly how reliable and qualitatively the W Agen ist.??? The X-30 looks quite ok! Then there are also such additional equipment, I mean for the terrain which supposedly does not bring anything up to not much. Maybe someone drives one of these or knows someone who drives such a ride. So greetings from the south of Germany`s p.s. What impressed me was the x-mode at Subaru Outback I think that the also really what is good combined with the 2nd liter diesel Unfortunately I find in still a little expensive or optical not so appealing. I just look at myself more often.