Category: Toyota Starlet, Yaris, Aygo Forum

Hello to the country. At 42000 km it has also caught my clutch. Clutch game equals zero. LUK Original – clutch set and 1.7 Ltr SAE 75-90 API – GL4 Castrol – gearboxoel ( bundle with 2 times 1 Liter Oel ) ordered. Costs 145 € and 100 € rental workshop. Expansion 1 hour. Installation 3.5 hours, in own performance. The whole process was quite simple. Screwing just 😉 However, I would like to rent a gear lifter, because weight stamping was yesterday 😉 Of course before removal the Getri ebeoel drained! Who does not know it yet, the battery and the battery box prior to disassembly, then you get really good at the screws from the gearbox. (was not mentioned here yet in the forum.) Conclusion: The old clutch disc was still tip top in shot, so you could drive another 50000 km! The machine was very worn out! The pressure springs were cut off about a third, the rear bearing strongly worn, and very rough when turning. The pressure springs from the A utomats were about 10 mm bent inwards (wearing and fatigued material of the pressure springs !!!), therefore one could no longer recreate the clutch. ” That was unambiguously the reason why the adjustment, the clutch was no longer possible ” !!! To the icing point according to factory specifications of the clutch game I have to make following experience. Because nothing fits over a ! Therefore I have roughly adjusted and am a round around the block . After that I could play the game again solve to get an acceptable result! Now the small purrs again really nice. After about 200 km I will check the clutch game again if necessary again.

Door locks in the Toyota Aygo built in March 2009!!! I bought a Toyota Aygo in March 2009. Half a year later I could not unlock my door locks from the trunk. The key did not go into the lock despite door locks. So I left the doors open for months so I could get into the car. I thought this was due to the minus degrees. But when we had warm temperatures the locks still didn’t go. I couldn’t plug the key in. n. When I went to Toyota, they thought that something like this never happened before. Since I had a guarantee, all three locks were completely changed. So that was nice and good. Well, unfortunately, the joy didn’t last long. Because now I have the same problem again, my door locks can’t open properly again, because you can’t get in properly with the key. Now the locks are changed again. It can’t be that I have to change them every half year now. . Which is why the guarantee does not apply! Did any of you also have this experience???? Thank you for your answers. Lg Snoopy

Hello Together as the title already describes, we have a Toyota Yaris hybrid. The light yield is miserable! The passing beam and driving beam (which is mechanically controlled) are really catastrophic. Birns are HIR2 or 9012 (USA type) Now I wanted to ask if I can also install 9006. I prefer a Xenon kit. Do I need adapter cables from connection 9006 to 9012 or is the connection the same? Have seen (youtube) that you have to “mill” the 9006 socket a little bit? I have to pay attention to something with the Xenon Kit Set, because it is a hybrid (I think rather no, because the voltage is 12 volts anyway) Does anyone have experiences with it? Thank you for your tips.

hello people my father wants to buy a car and brought me this anot what I should check or better told you! ez: 02/05 kilometer: 62419km power: 55kw/75ps diesel color: black metallic previous owner: 1 air conditioning electric window lift 4x airbag servo on-board computer leather steering wheel radio/cd colorglass abs cargo space cover zv with remote control immobilizer 5-speed manual price: 8990€ what can you tell me about the car? weaken, repair susceptibility, tooth strap change in tervall etc. I thank you for every useful answer!

Hello dear forum, I bought my Toyota Aygo year 11/2013 in November 2014 from a Toyota dealer. At that time the vehicle was 1 year old and had 7,500km on the clock. There was last an oil change or a service made. Now he has almost 18,000km on the clock. I read that you should do a fitness check about every 15,000km is that right? So I could almost still drive 4,500km with him like that until he has 22,500km down right? My question? What? Do I have to do a fitness check or a real inspection? He is now 2 years old in November. But no inspection should you do all 30.000Km first or? My question? What does such a fitness check cost on average at Toyota? What is done there or changed? Greeting Jan

Hello together I am still quite fresh here (quasi a rookie? ) excuses therefore if something does not end up somewhere where it should… I have a question: For my Yaris I need a few new Ablelllichter size H4. Have found at ebay which in xenon optics with 6000K. Unfortunately no information about the watts that the lamps need. Is there a upper limit that can be installed?? What do the cables/mounts/battery/sicherung at all hold out that I am not there in half dark before nem bre Is it necessary to register the (bold question but wants to be 100% sure) someone has even made experience with such xenon optics that he wants to share? I am particularly interested in the light yield that I can then gain from such lamps or whether I will have clear deficits in terms of range/visibility… Thank you and love greetings

Hello and good day, I’ve been researching here for a while and I’m still a little unsure: I’ve been a happy Twingo driver for 5 years (year 2003 without climate) and I’m going to sell my car next week. That’s how it turned out and I get a higher price than it’s even worth. Now I want to buy a Yaris and I’m a bit overwhelmed with the product range etc. I’m thinking about whether it’s the 1.0 cool or the 1.3 cool. My Twingo has 43 kw (no idea how much horsepower that is) and my only concern is that I am not under the road. My Twingo easily manages 150 km/h on the AB and is quite fast in urban traffic. I would also like to have my steering wheel remote control for the radio again. The seller thinks that I have to take the Yaris team for the 1.0 cool I should pay 13.300 € (ink. registration, transfer, metallic). Is this realistic or too expensive? For the 1.3 he cool with the same equipment etc I should pay 14.300 €. The 1.0 team should cost 14.700 € (including as above + steering wheel remote control and height adjustable steering wheel). Unfortunately I can not test the 1.0 cool because it was sold last week as a demonstration car. You expect the new next week and there brew On the Internet there are also very bad opinions about the 1.0 he cool. Many advise against, because he is too loud and too slow. I would be very happy about a few opinions. I have the appointment with the seller tomorrow and then hopefully I am a little clearer about the purchase decision. Thank you!

Hello. my friend has (for a long time) taken backlights from the internet (black, lasered) in the description was that they are Tüv tested and deprecated are marked, with a (SE or ES ???) sign. He has also been stopped by the police for this reason and they let us drive skeptically. An acquaintance warned me and said: “If someone drives in behind him and he says that he has not seen the brake lights, my friend at the accident uld is.” someone already had experiences about it or knows about it? I would be very interested! thank you!

Hello, I just registered here, because my Yaris has been having problems for two weeks. He was first admitted in February 2005 and has now almost 50,000 down. I had the following problem: After several rides (so after several starts) the brake pedal became harder and harder and the car started to brake on its own. I could hardly accelerate any more and when I went off the gas, he also braked me with inserted gear to zero (stronger than normal the motor brake brake t). Without gear the same thing only worse. After driving the brakes were very hot at the front. So I took him to a Toyota workshop. There I was told that the brake caliper was broken at the front and that the repair should cost 850€. Since the Spanish seemed to me, I drove to another Toyota workshop today. There I was told that the brake caliper was perfectly fine, but the brake hoses were not ok anymore. They then kindly defrost them for free. On the return trip no problems. Now I just drove again. On the return trip he did not fool at short notice on the highway, but does not necessarily have to be because ( the 1.0 is in some situations a little weak on the chest..). When I then parked at home, however, I had to find out that the brakes were hot again in front. Otherwise he drives normally however (brakes not independently, brake pedal normal). are hot brakes normal?! Please help me love greetings

My Toyota Yaris diesel with BJ 2005 (460k km) is making a mess again. Slowly I have really no fun since this year already a big repair has been done with the exhaust and in the two years before I had to replace two wheel bearings at the front and both brake cylinders at the rear. So Toyota is not so problem-free then. But first of all no matter. Yesterday after the start of the car the yellow engine control light did not go out any more. So I looked in the manual what this is Of course, everything! That’s why I started to detect a change. This was then in a slightly lower performance. Since I was about 200km away from the place of residence I got the ADAC and he looked at the error memory once. But there was only one error in the engine control unit. No more precise definition. He then deleted the error and looked through it again. We then drove together another lap and everything w ar ok. Then I drove another 100km until another power drop occurred and this time the overheating light turned on. This then suddenly and I was lucky that there was a parking lot nearby because I was on the highway. So again ADAC was fetched and this time was searched for longer and found that the fan of the cooler is broken. fuses are ok and thermostat also seems to be ok. The yellow angel now taps on the engine itself or due to the previous error on a defect of the engine control unit. Car was towed, I got a rental car and tomorrow the car with car transporter comes to the home workshop. Now I would be interested what such a Toyota engine control unit can cost if that is it? What could it be from your point of view? I hope the engine from the propeller is cheaper because I think it is cheaper. Will not put so much money into the car since already relatively old and meanwhile e r is always more unreliable.