Category: Mercedes Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

Hello, the clutch of my coupé (C123/230CE) suddenly behaves quite strangely. The car recently stood up for about 6 weeks – but before the clutch functioned completely unobtrusively – a week ago I first noticed in the garage that the clutch pedal felt funny soft and resistanceless. When driving it was noticeable that the clutch was coming very early, so much earlier than before. After a short ride, however, the whole thing completely normalizes again; also in the stand the pedal pressure is normal again, the clutch is used to tight. The effect showed up today, after about a week of service life again. The clutch is only four years old and has not yet 5’000 km on the hump – so what could it lie about? Thank you in advance! MfG Jablonski

After I have now my darling in the garage I have made a list with things I want to do/must to bring everything back to work. 36 years have of course left traces. For all those who have not read my “return post”: I bought me w123 240D from 1979. Probably still the first model, because rabbit ears. Is not at 79 so easy … And now my questions, which have so posed themselves during the first driving and inspecting: 1) Was the ZV serially with the vehicles? If I have one it does not close, or has no function. However, all locks are also very difficult and the buttons are not as good as not to press. I type on 25 years no care and resin. I have to look at myself in the spring. 2) Does the fan run on the engine with the model IMMER with it? With my previous W124 200D it was not yet the case that I had to keep up with the light. In the current W123 it is always funny. Maybe the thermostat in the bucket or the fan is simply set on continuous plus. Before I did not want to ask for the light check. But I did not have to have to give a lot of time to ask for the light.

Evening together. Short to me. My name is Tim am 25 and come from near Ulm. As a everyday car I drive a higher-mounted T4 Syncro with everything around it. Now a vintage car is supposed to be here for the summer. Have found a nice w123 200d near me. Condition fits everything. However, the brake does not build up any pressure, means it is difficult from front to back. You have to press Mega on it to slow it down. Screwdriver experience is available. Is this a simple problem? He thinks it is a membrane. Greeting Tim

Moin Am OM616 (“240d” diesel engine is installed between vacuum pump and brake device, resp. suction bridge hoses to transport the vacuum from the pump to the consumer. Sometimes there is a problem and engine oil is stored in the hoses. In a hose (to the suction bridge) we find a kind of valve, probably to prevent oil from finding its way. Now come the questions: Does anyone know about the valves a part number or name? Do they belong in both hoses such valves? If I have found it right, the hoses made of polyamide PA12 PHL are in the dimension 12.5 · 1.25 mm or 12 mm outside diameter and 10 mm inside diameter. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks and Gruss Michael

Hello people, our grandmother gives up driving. She is 93 years old and thinks it’s getting too dangerous on the road ;-), no, she doesn’t get basic security from the community and can’t afford the car anymore. She is the first owner and bought the car 25 years ago (then with her husband). The car was always maintained and maintained in a Mercedes workshop (the two had a flower shop and no idea of the bolts). The mileage is correct. The car was recently partially painted (cot wings and doors), the engine compartment looks very clean. The dashboard is not torn (garage car), the seats have no holes, the construction board looks quite good so far. I once put myself under it and could see that the Simmerring on the differential gear (to the cardan shaft) is leaking. Also the Simmerring of the gear shaft seems to be leaking. At the oil tray you probably only have to pull the screws or replace the seal. Color: this Mercedes green without a metal effect, slightly brighter than the Olivgreen of the German Army?

Hi friends of the /8er. Wanted to show you what happens if you always give a car only underbody protection, but do not clean the water drains in the car and neglect the disc seals, or not keep them tight. We have placed the car on the side and will now give it a NEW underbody and renew all other rotted sheets. Also the tank, the radiator carrier and the shock absorber shots – for the time being -!!! Will report about it at regular intervals. Tomorrow I start at my green 280 CE. There are then also pictures, Many greetings Dieter

Hello dear w123 driver and connoisseur, I have a 230ce year 1983 with which the springs have to be changed in front and rear, because the previous owner has put the thing “unfortunately” deeper. Now I need original feathers regarding H-marks on approval. With the data card drawn according to chassis no.. Special features: 410 sliding roof electric 420 gear automatic center circuit 466 central locking 470 antilock system [from list 31] 470 fan coupling [only list 16] 504 exterior mirror right (electrically adjustable from inside) [from list 35] 531 antenna automatically (in case of radio installation) 591 thermal insulation glass all around with heatable rear disc (ESG) 640 light metal wheels 5-fold 835 coconut mats 4-part (natural colors) Fzg has NO air conditioning. Now my question: Which springs vo + hi (color code) do I need for the Fzg. Would he like to spare me and he likes to ride him with the low-down of 2001.

Hello dear community I have a problem with my 230ce. My 230ce runs great when it’s cold, but when it’s warm the worst it’s in city traffic, he starts shaking and sawing himself at the traffic lights until he goes out. If he stays on it sounds as good as it goes (automatics) as if he has misigned. As soon as I’m back in the running traffic he runs well until the next stop. In addition, I come with a full tank only 350 km makes about 18 liters on 100 km. I don’t know so slowly any more since it runs until it’s warm so great without problems. Have already installed new ignition cables and a new distributor with finger but without improvement. I have already exchanged some underpressure hose connections. Hope you can help me

Hello together, with thorough washing of my 230ce a few days ago I noticed that the seal of the right rear light is no longer 100% dense. New seal is ordered, will be picked up and installed on Monday. Apart from that everything is unfortunately dense (backpane seal has been made recently). However, so that this remains so, I would like to check once all the water drains present at the C123 for possible constipations. The water seems to flow from the sliding roof forward into the A-pillar and then comes out between the fender and door, to the rear it flows out below the rear side windows. Then there is a “gumminase” at the bottom of the threshold. Everything in the area of the hood hinge pockets is also free. Where are there still procedures? What if, for example, water enters through the disc seals of the rear side windows (100% densely there are not undeings) – where does the water flow off? Thank you and all of you a beautiful Sunday! MfG Jablonski

Good evening, I have some questions about the Mercedes w123 and w124: 1. Are these models recommended as everyday vehicles? 2. How strict are the guidelines to get an H-mark? Would it be allowed, for example, to replace worn leather seats of the one model with identical seats with fabric cover? Should only colours be used when repainting, in which the car was delivered ex factory? Would retrofitting a parking aid be allowed? 3. Are these models relatively robust and maintenance-friendly, so that one can carry out simple maintenance work itself? 4. How high are the monthly insurance contributions for vehicles with H-marks? The insurance contributions for these old models seem to be very low anyway:http://www.autokostencheck.de/…/230-ce-123-c_14184.html