Category: Mercedes Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

Hello star friends, I have the following problem, maybe you have some advice? My 230CE automatic with the M102 simply went off during the ride – and didn’t let it start any more. Organs yes, but jump on: no. The buzzing of the petrol pump was also no longer heard. So probably the KPR. Arrived in the workshop we measured whether the power was connected to the pump: no. Then the KPR was pushed – and the pump was running. The engine also ran. Good: we have an old MB relay in the Who kstatt found (a 6-pole) and used: Lief, or runs. I sent my original KPR to a repairer and soldered it. In parallel, I bought a KPR with the same part number as a used part – as a spare part if that should happen again. Now to my problem: If I use both the repaired KPR as well as the newly acquired used part pass – NOTHING! No surrence from the petrol pump – and thus no jumping. a loaned W124 230E KPR he surrs, starts briefly, but then goes out again, if you don’t press it on the gas. (Has surely something to do with the PIN occupancy – my KPR is 9-pole, the 124er KPR has 10 poles) A fuse for the KPR is not in the fuse box, is it? Does anyone have advice for me? Thank you, always enough pressure on the pump and many greetings from FFM, Taner

Moin, purely out of curiosity, because the thoughts just drifted a little into my automotive past: Whether my 1981 W123 still exists somewhere? Type 123.123 (Limousine 240 D) oriental red sliding roof ZV Servo inside beige an AHK retrofitted by me along with matching warning flash switch heating system for operation with vegetable oil (dumb idea, sorry….) EZ 1981, ordered 1977 I had the car from summer 2003 to summer 2007, last on red oldie number (MK-0728). WDB12312310259321 [edit] was the FIN (seen on the existing copy of the letter) Would be happy to see the car again in pictures. When I sold it, unfortunately the rust was sitting at the bottom of the door. Otherwise he was quite neat together. Thanks for every hint.

Hello together! I have a quite profane question: I have noticed many times that the instrument lighting on my 230 W123 is significantly darker than when I’m driving, so the speed is higher. Is this normal or does the alternator possibly bring too little power in idle mode? Sometimes the instrument lighting suddenly gets a little darker while driving, but shortly after that it gets brighter again. The poti works and I have it up to full brightness. Do you have an idea or Have you had something like this yourself? VG Dominik

Hello dear Mercedes-community, I am actually from the Audi area and have now lost my way to you due to a grief. My father unfortunately died far too early and leaves a cared for w123 which he inherited from his father. Unfortunately, now apart from me no one really wants to burden himself with the car and my father would certainly not have wanted him to leave the family not even a year after his death, which is why I want to take care of now. Now to the car it is a 200 petrol truck with carburettor and retrofitted catalyst BJ 1982. During the lifetime of my father and his father the car was only serviced in the Mercedes-Benz car dealership. Now the TÜV was at the also bravely passed only unfortunately not the AU. According to the test program the car should deliver a CO value of 0.1, but delivers in idle mode proud 4.9 as well as under load 1.9. Now I can fetch it myself only next week, I had hoped because of the good condition The TÜV would be a pure formality. Now my question: the car was now almost a year ago. Before that he was driven only very little there is the hope that a longer exit than the 20km to the TÜV the car again “free to run”. Then again with glowing engine to the TÜV? Maybe again carburetor cleaner fill in and fresh fuel? Does someone possibly have a similar error picture and can give me a good tip, like Lambda probe temperature sensor or similar? Am for each n Tip grateful and best regards

Hello dear ones, I haven’t found the topic, so I’m opening a new one. So far I haven’t done anything myself, but I wanted to get involved slowly. I’ve had a car for 4 years. I’ve had a 1979 280CE and recently I noticed that the engine temperature is rising, even while driving, but mostly when it’s just on and standing. I’ve filled up the fan and coolant. Thermostat was changed about 3 years ago, so it also changed when driving In the photo there is no ignition on. I am very grateful for the ideas.

Hello municipality, I’m new here, but I often read in the forum because of tricks and ideas. Now I need help myself. I own an MB C 123 year 1975 with 109 hp and a Stromberg CD 175 carburettor. The MB was in the workshop because of start-up difficulties. He jumped for a long time crappy, the engine wobbled, went out again, ran like a sack of screws and sounded like that. Repair, three months, because locksmiths holidays, sick, etc. No matter, paid 1200€. The engine then ran very high, but it jumped on and ran. Then came something new, 100km driving, 6 liters of water used. Crack in cylinder 2 and 3. Other workshop, done great work, but the car does not start. 2200 € paid. Since the MB has no rev indicator, I set the ignition free muzzle. Lief, ha he ran. I drove, nearly 1000 km and was happy. So, today in the garage, wanted to drive, but the MB does not want to drive. I’m standing there, I don’t know what to do anymore. A nice car, owning it for 18 years, put money in for no longer. I’m looking for someone in Berlin / Land Brandenburg who wants to help me honestly, that I can drive the sweetheart even further. Hope here in the forum on help. You all have a nice Sunday, HotelVolvo

Hello dear community, my name is Bernd I own a W123 240D and am new here in the forum, I have recently a problem. If the engine is cold, even at summer temperatures, the engine has hardly any power, as soon as it gets warm, so about 60 degrees, it runs completely normal and has the full power, while it does not jerk, runs calmly and does not smoke, also it starts in the cold worse, in the warm condition everything is great. last trip to the mountains. Maybe one of you has experienced this before or an idea what that can be. Thanks already ??

Hello together, I don’t have an H license plate yet and wanted to ask why I didn’t get an environmental badge at my 123er 230E. In field 14.1 he is keyed with 0405 – which suggests that he doesn’t get one. Today at noon I saw a 230E bj. 1981 at a vintage car meeting. – green badge ?! Can someone say something? Thank you!

Hello and good evening, I’m interested in a 123er but it has a lip at the front is also the engine room should be called the mud flights (inside) are black and not in car color. It is a switch. Engine runs smoothly. Color is appearance bronze. From the outside it looks ok. E-window lift at the back and front. E-sliding roof. Year of construction should be 1976 but maybe not true, I find out another time. The 4 eyes face consists of each square and a round eye. On the other Se ite too. Somehow this lip doesn’t fit anywhere at the front. What should I consider? Would also like to have a 123 and hope for you. Thanks already. Sorry for the cryptic way of expression, I just wrote from memory.

good tomorrow! in advance: I was not sure if this topic belongs to the oldtimer or nfz forum (it is about an nfz-oldtimer)… and now to the problem: my daimler l508d (t2/model 309/”tanne/düsseldorfer”, motor om314, bj. 1976, ~300,000km) has fever. normally the coolant temperature is around 83°c (thermostat opening temperature), whether summer winter uphill below load/loaded or empty. for some time the temperature has risen to 90° (also relatively constant, no matter what operating condition, and no matter whether heating heat exchangers on or on), and the cooler has remained cold below. I then tried to narrow down the source of errors piece by piece: I changed thermostat and temperature encoders for new parts (doesn’t cost much), then the water pump tested (runs), the cooler decalcified/washed (even all good)…it all didn’t work out and I was pretty perplexed. at the end of the week I then got the nigelnagelneue thermostat once removed and see there: suddenly neat flow in the cooler, which was also warm down again as it heard, also the net was evenly warm – temperature overall of course not higher than ~50-60°c. then I drilled n few holes into the thermostat and made it again installed, car warmed up and a proper test: I live directly on the legendary Krähberg in the rear odenwald (some maybe from moped riding or the mountain race a term). uf the table laid” and my car with full gas chased up the mountain. temperature at ~75°c (so almost normal temperature), then descended naturally to ~50-60°c. what do you think is the problem? why does a new thermostat obviously not open? I have to drive next week with trailer after eating (total distance approx. 700km), pick up a ton of coal, would you do that in the condition? for the car it is actually “no big thing”: empty weight currently 3.5t + 1t charge ung = 4,5 t total weight. and the car is designed for 5t + 3,5t at the hook (total weight 8.5t). many thanks already for your answer, matha