Category: Mercedes Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

  • Mercedes W123 200 – Brake pedal hard

    Hello dear car friends , I hope with my request here right I bought me a 123 half a year ago, got on the first day immediately TÜV and so far I drove only 50km. PROBLEM: I noticed now several times that the brake pedal is occasionally (until often) very hard, can hardly be kicked and the car then has hardly any brake force. The pedal can be moved zero, I thought maybe also the discs “glazed”, because it feels like it would disappear after a while. I changed engine oil and brake fluid last month and had hoped that the brake fluid change is away from the problem. (air in the line o.ä.) Was now in 3 workshops, which were rather asked or had no desire for a vintage car Can someone give me advice (clear is difficult over ́s Internet) where I can start or give an approach to what this can be? I thought about the brake power amplifier, could it possibly also be sold out or had no desire to do what disks with hard pedals now – but I am also not an expert and I am happy about it ^

  • Mercedes Benz W123 230 C Coupe Classic Car

    A nice evening or a nice night I wish the community I’m new here & hope I landed right here It’s all about the following,I found a car that just knocked me over,it shot me directly a “wow” through the head.A Benz,there’s also a coupe and an oldtimer! More precisely,a 230 C coupe from 1978. 92,400 Km, manual gearbox,109 PS Newly painted in silver,beautiful from the outside,inside partial leather in black,the fabric has a slightly “pink” touch with an “undefinable” pattern (see pictures)Leather steering wheel in black Now my question is: What do you have to pay attention to in the car? Is it susceptible to anything? Even unreliable? I didn’t find much about the car,only that the W123 series is the most sold series of MB. Does anyone have experiences with the car before I buy it out of my belly? Oh yes, price 4,000€,that seems absolutely not too much to me.

  • Kauf W123 Kombi

    Hello people! I would have a lot of interest in a W123 station wagon, but I haven’t dealt with the vehicles in detail yet. So I would like to ask what to consider when buying such a vehicle. It would also be interesting to have consumption, insurance classes (because of Kat or so) and everything else that is interesting when buying it. I would like to drive the car as an everyday vehicle, do you think that is realistic or is something to do with the models more often at that age? So thank you in advance for all your information!

  • Start problems 240D /8

    Moin Moin Goes around our W115 Has a little history, it is an OM616 with 72hp from the W123 installed, this comes from a vocational school and was laid down for a long time. The original was the /8 a 200D, the engine was however up. Well, it does not start, has already 6000km on the clock, battery was weak, because wedge belts are too loose over a long time, think thus the LiMa has not charged properly. After the battery is now full and the engine also makes a good enough speed, comes still nothing. I tap on it the The glow candles through the long professional school life are already short before the end, or end are which values should the candles have because if I hold an Ohmmeter or the current fair ? I have heard if the through are the resistance to infinity ?

  • 240 D leaks oil

    Hello guys, for a few days, oil drips from my 240 D. I checked all this time, and for me it looks like the oil tank seal is through. The oil seems to be mainly on the screws on the seal (back area). From above apparently no oil comes from anywhere. Have cleaned the place once and wanted to check it again in a few days. Has any of you ever had experience with it? Thanks and greetings to the round Willy

  • Back-turned old cars in here! From 604,000 km to 265,000 km

    Hello, this morning at the daily look out in the automobile exchanges a vehicle seemed very familiar to me. The car was near me, at the beginning of April and still had rest TÜV. As Dailydriver I would have liked it, but then wanted to drive no switch, so I had not looked at the car more closely. Now it has been advertised again today with new TÜV and only 265,000 km and almost 1,500 € more expensive! In the area Böblingen, before that the car was in Schorndorf, about 50 km I have searched for the old ad, a tip if you want to search for old ads that are no longer available, enter the keywords (mostly the ad header), in this example “mobile 230E 2.500 € chimney village”, then click “in cache” (the green triangle) and the old ad will come. Have taken a picture of where the cache stands. To hold on I made screenshots, but without the phone numbers, you can get the same The alleged fraudster didn’t even bother to make new pictures, but saved the old ones and took them over. Everyone could put something like this here, if you had the ads, sure it would advise someone to be cheated by their purchase intention.

  • Questions on W111 – reconstruction, parts procurement, etc.

    Good evening parish, I came to the W111 like the virgin to the child. Unfortunately I did not have any literature about it, nor have I seen this device (built together) from the inside. But I couldn’t say no either. And when my mechanic learned at MB, the boxes were already over 30. Soon the box will be in the postcode area 04720. Maybe there is someone nearby who has such a model himself and can give me tips in terms of technology etc.. The 111 ́er is in full swing. ig disassembled but completely, i.e. all parts are available and so I pick it up. New thresholds have already been welded in, the new floor sheets are as new parts in the car. Further massive welding work has to be done, such as at the lower C-pillars, end tips, HA, spray wall, injection wall sides, front and rear car. Since partly on the right side of the spray wall a piece of approx. 30x40cm is missing – there are somewhere documents, how ́s there to look? About tips, where you can repair liters I would be grateful if you would also get here for bodywork. There is still time for a W124 T to be restored. We know more about this.

  • W123 220D, automatic

    Hello together, after longer activity with the newer models (S205) I have now gucked into an older model (W123). I probably on Monday a test drive with a 220D with automatic. I looked at it about two weeks ago already. The interior is clean, the trunk as from the factory, no rust recognizable on the body. The engine compartment is not washed and makes a good impression. I wanted to ask once in the round, what I still pay attention to during the test drive. after all, he now has 166 tkm (Bj ’78) down. Has probably remained in first possession for a long time, was passed on in the family, but the niece has no pleasure in it. The H-mark is available, TÜV anyway. I wanted to take a closer look at the typical rust spots of course, but I am grateful for every tip, especially the opinions regarding the automatic. Cost should be the fun 5,300€. Just don’t know if I should really hit him. Wanted him for the Arbe Use itsweg (route: 65km; about 26tkm per year). Garage space is available (at home and work). Thank you very much for your help Greeting Willy

  • Do the vintage car buyers all expect a new car?

    Hi Together, I tried to sell my 240D ( W123 ) this year. But ALL supposed buyers expected a new car condition. My W123 is now 33,5 years old and has already run 186,500 km. It is without dalls and without bumps. The engine runs perfectly and does not rust. But then is searched and every still small rust spot creededed. I decided for me now to prepare the complete car and all rust spots expertly b What always bothers me the most when one tells one that there is viiieeel better at a cheaper price. But then when one fears where one finds the offers, is only great silence. I personally find it a pity that one can not negotiate at a certain level, to make the car without reason bad. Did you also have such experiences, or do I always come to such strange people? Greetings from Ludwigshafen John

  • 200D – Conversion of the radiator fan

    Hi, I have read that there is a conversion from the permanent drive of the fan. Instead, an electric motor is installed, which is controlled by a thermostat valve. This should lead up to additional 7hp. Does this conversion make sense???It doesn’t matter to me on the 7hp. 🙂 Does this conversion lead to the loss of the H-mark??