Category: Mercedes Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

Hello municipality, have for a few weeks after about 30 years a 123 – this time a 280CE . As far as everything is good, but with the autom. transmission is not quite iO. When starting normally gently the gearbox switches into the next gear, but then switches back again – the speed goes then naturally also high – but only for a few seconds and then goes back to the previous gear. If I drive hard at the stop, he drives like he should. I unfortunately do not know if the car It’s a 4-speed transmission, isn’t it? That brings me to another question: is there a gear indicator that indicates the current gear or how to get to the pears in the dashboard? Vllt are only defective. Can be good after 33 years… There seems to be something like this below the speedometer. Say thank you very much in advance.

Hi, so far I have been a silent reader, but now I have decided to buy (first) a MB old/youngtimer, and I hope for your advice. I have hardly had a screwdriver experience, but I am enthusiastic about the old coupés and would like to buy it as a weekend/holiday vehicle. Short to my situation: And these would be: Based on this, I have limited my choice to the following series. I can’t get any further now. I haven’t driven any of these vehicles so far and would be very happy to get them. I studied the relevant websites, read here in the forum and bought a few magazines. But personal experience with the models or your concrete opinions on my case would be very cool! Thank you!

Hello dear car friends , I hope I am right here with my concern I bought me a 123 half a year ago, got on the first day immediately TÜV and so far only 50km ridden. PROBLEM: I have noticed now several times that the brake pedal is occasionally (until often) very hard, can hardly be kicked and the car then has hardly any braking power. The pedal can move zero, I thought maybe also the discs “glazed”, because it feels like this and would na I changed engine oil and brake fluid last month and I had hoped that the problem was away from the brake fluid change. (air in the line or similar) Was now in 3 workshops, which were rather over-examined or had no desire for a vintage car Can someone give me advice (clear is over’s Internet difficult) where I can start or give an approach to what this can be? I thought about the brake power amplifier, could it possibly also be a block e/Displaying? Didn’t know what to do with hard pedal discs now – but I’m not an expert either and we also notice you’re inquisitive / desperate ^^ Thank you and I’m looking forward to your approaches

Moin Moin in the round We own a Mercedes T1 309D with motorhome structure. The OM617 is built. A 3 liter 5cylinder with 88hp… I register here in the W123 forum because the same engine was installed in the W123 300D… The engine has run 195000km. I think about changing the injection nozzles… At the cold start it shakes 2-3 times. Then is good. But most of all I think about it because it no longer has the full steam… Previously it ran on a straight level with viieel inrun 110-115k m/h according to Tacho… In the meantime, he doesn’t do more than 90-95km/h on the plain… He just manages to climb the 100km/h… Is it worth changing the injection nozzles after 35 years and 195,000 KM? Can one say about how much power a few old injection nozzles take? Valves I will also adjust in the same course… Would buy outdated injection nozzles for 265€… Have a leak on the injection system… Does that come from the nozzles? . I’m a car-technically really smart but I don’t know about the injection system… Hang up some pictures… Greetings Thomas

With my 300 Adenauer 4 pieces of the things are installed in the petrol lines, also for the return. Some time ago I broke one during the assembly. So I have one less in the system. I believe that the engine since then consumes about 186l/km. The damper tanks are made of zinc injection molding, so can not be soldered so easily, and whether soft soldering makes sense I don’t believe. At a company in Mannheim costs an almost one five hundred EUR !!!!!! Inside is only a diaphragm under spring pressure, that I believed there is the air pressure in the mountains regulated. So if I leave one away, before or behind the injection pump ? Does anyone know ? Or is the consumption result of a leak in the tank ?? Hi Hi….( Picture no. 45 )

Dear community, Since I don’t know any more, I hope for helpful feedback from you. I recently bought a Mercedes 280ce of 79 (EZ). Technically fine, but optically rather bad. According to the vehicle letter, it is brown. One of the previous owners, however, has foiled it black. The foil dissolves already in some places and you can see that in some places the foil rises slowly (Rost). I was recently at the TüV (continuously). The examiner told me that if he Starts with the test, I would lose my H license plate (rust, foil, rims no longer original) – From the inside (except for the “modern” radio). So if I want to keep the H license plate (I am of course interested in the originality of the car), I have to free it from the foil first and then have it removed from the rust and painted. Therefore, my question about a good workshop for painting in Berlin (Neukölln if possible) and a workshop that can I have no idea what such a painting costs. In which range I move here (something between 1500 and 10,000 is too imprecise to me) if you start from a few smaller rust spots and run out of an external repainting of the complete car. In addition, which black varnish must be taken to ensure the originality? ps: (I also need original rims (hard baroque rims). Where can you find this or which dealer is trustworthy- E Thank you in advance. I’m curious.

Have a small transformer (T1-Bj 1985) Diesel and suddenly have the problem that he no longer accepts gas and after that he died and I remained “laying”. The breakdown service meant that air is in the fuel line and I should replace the one hose, which is already brittle. I will try this tomorrow, but can’t it be something else? Ok, with the transparent lines You can see that air is there. Can still seep in air? If I have changed the hose, do you have to vent it after that or is it possible? Thank you very much!!!

Hello friends, After 14 years of deep sleep, I woke up my father’s old W123 230. Unfortunately, I have the following problem with the car. As soon as he reaches his operating temperature about 85-95 degrees, he starts to stutter & ruckle, barely accept the accelerator pedal and even goes out when you push too much on the accelerator pedal. In idle man notices nothing of the problem, cold he runs perfectly. The following I have replaced that could be related to the problem: -Zündkerzen -Kraftsto fffilter – Krafptstoffpume Just by the way: I put in a lot of work, my goal is to get an H-mark, but the Tüvler meant that with the “typical” cracks in the dashboard, no H-certificate can be issued?! Are you serious? I thank you in advance for your help!!

Hello municipality, I would like to get back into the W123 scene 3 years ago a 250ger BJ78 now is but the longing again great and I am looking for I am currently looking for a Limo/Coupe 230 E or 280E – but while looking for one with the color combi blue/date and find the dare simply optically super! – but it is a 240d. Now I am hard to ponder – I know petrol is comparable to diesel like apples and pears but I would like your Erfa I think the diesels are indestructible and technically easier to wait and to repair?! And what do I have to pay attention to when buying? Thank you very much! Greetings

Hello, I asked in a workshop, the old cars (mostly MB) restored, about the estimated costs for a (complete) painting of my W202. The answer seemed to me quite high (would not want to blow out the exact span first). They told me especially Metallic varnishes are more expensive. First: Yes, it would be wise to have an offer made by a paintmaker. Unfortunately, my car is currently not so 100% traffic safe, so I don’t want to drive around unnecessarily. So:1) What would be appropriate in my case?Colour: BRILLANTSILBER – METALLICLACK (744U)Quality: so good that the average person perceives it as a normal painting and does not identify it as a bad quality – but doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect (hope you understand how I mean it).2) Have you had your vintage car painted before & what did it cost? It would also be interesting: which color is the one that I think will answer? / how long ago? Think the costs shouldn’t vary a lot with W123, W124, W201 and W202. Thank you for your help Greetings