Category: Mercedes Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

Hola, I finally got Mr. Adenauer to run. Unfortunately he has a felt gasoline build-up of 132 liters per 2O km, and totally black lost exhaust. In my operating instructions stands for this case, thermostat for the cold start slide defective, replace or repair. Is it about the thermostat in the housing on the injection pump ? Or hides another Choke-like part somewhere else ? Who knows ? Greeting

Hello, a probably simple question: How do I open the rear doors on a W123 limousine without central locking when they are locked? Can you pull the small locking pin up again (ala Golf II) or can you just pull it through the door handle inside? The latter would be extremely impractical, but it looks to me as if the locking pin has completely disappeared when the door is locked, so you can’t pull it out manually. The second series (built in 1980). I think the fuse pins were longer in the first series and also looked out in the locked state. Thank you and greetings

Hello,have a motor om 616 from the transporter 207,speed transmission,which should now be in a w115 car with normal manual transmission,can it be that from the transporter the flywheel or clutch are deeper? Ca 2 cm,so if I have this under tension together I can separate the clutch, what can you change? Or screw the transmission bell from the transporter gear to the pkw gear? Thanks a lot Gruss Frank

Hi have a question…we are currently traveling with our new (atten) mercedes 309d across Europe. Currently in beautiful Austria. What is your experience, can this car drive well over steep passes, just slow in the 2 course with 30-40kmh or is this car not built for it? Thanks already for your answers.

Hello! In May 2021, the HU is back in the house. I had it done by a DeKra expert in the workshop next door for the last three dates. In February, however, the car master approached me that the requirements for both the H-entry test and the H-entry tests would have been enormously tightened and that his master examiner would now also be very strict. Therefore, I should rather try somewhere else. Today, I was at a TÜV-Nord branch, where I was impressed with an excerpt from the new guidelines. Therefore, paint breakers on the door edges, but also their repair with a paint pencil, would be obstructive. Co-paintings if the new paint differs from the rest of the colour and otherwise improper paint treatment such as excessive polishing or lightened varnish by sun effect. Further cracks or color changes in the dashboard, sitting, door panels and carpets. On my demand, therefore, whether a new car with Mind age 30 years needed, the engineer thought shrugging, the cars should look nice too. Did I now only deal with spinners or has the wind actually turned like that? I would like to know that very urgently, because then I get away cheaper with it, if I smell normally and then pay the 8oo € p.a.. Thanks in advance for industrious reply Greeting

Hello to all W123 experts. I am looking for a new everyday car, forced, because my W202, due to several defects, whose repair does not pay off financially, will soon be shut down. The vehicle should be robust, reliable and (regular maintenance provided) durable (20 – 30 years), with manageable costs and easy maintenance. It would be ideal if the vehicle is already completely protected against rust (e.g. by “flooding” with MIKE Sander Since I like particularly “classic” Mercedes models, especially the W123, possibly also W124 and W201, I would like to know if the “rust problem” with the W123 can be managed somehow, so that I can possibly buy such a car without a bad conscience? I drive about 10km to the workplace (there I have a garage parking space), otherwise 10-20km to the city, rarely longer distances (up to 400km Gesa) At home, the vehicle would be standing outside, as I don’t own a garage or the like. I had visited a W123 once, which was treated with corrosion protection by Mike Sander until the stop, practically everywhere it could be “dangerous”. It looked like new and probably keeps “eternal”. But I have never seen such a car offered for sale … . I look forward to helpful answers!

Hello, I drive a W123 engine, 3 liters 5 cylinders in a 207D with 3.3T travel load. About 150 TKm. vehicle stood six years. Since the approx. 6000 km driven. Now I noticed yesterday at night that the exhaust manifold on the mountain, under full speed red glows. Oil consumption goes already to the limit of one litre to 1000. But even if the engine has to do a lot, otherwise less. Rowe Hd Mineral15w40. In the stand gas it blows out of the open oil filling nozzle, if I The compression is in order, between 26.5 and 29.5 bar. The pressure differences between the cylinders are all in the permissible range. Oil pressure stand gas cold 6.5 bar and warm stand gas 2 bar. Under full load warm 6.5 bar. Engine has long run out. After setting and replacing the old injection nozzles it no longer rusts anymore. What else has been done is the replacement of the control chain tensioner. The injection pump is partially overhauled before 20000 km and is new. My question would now be whether the glowing crumb is normal and if not what it might be. Thank you in advance Wieland

Since July this year the following ad is already online:Mobile:https://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?…eBay:https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/1473179866-216-1759 The starting price was originally, I think, overlaid 13,500 euros. Since then the seller has repeatedly taken the vehicle in and out and gradually adjusted the price downwards, except for the currently current 9,600 euros that I rate as relatively fair. Now my question to you experts: how b Let’s take a look at the given data! A few details about the rating: – there is no printed checkbook – the car really has an annual car character from inside (sit in it) – the circuit is for me expressly no exclusion criterion – the champagne tone is beside astral silver one of my favourite colors Would you buy the vehicle and find the rating fair? Are there still points on which I pay attention should? Only the inner wheelhouses I noticed a little negative. They seem to have a kind of patina, no rust, I can’t judge that exactly – everything looks a bit brownish/black started. Thank you for your feedback/your opinion!

Hello friends of the old stars, I currently have a bit of problems with my clutch hydraulics. The first two three KMs it is relatively difficult to switch with, after that no more problems, so probably air in the system. Taker and encoder cylinders are not soooo old (about 3 years) so that I could imagine that it might also be on the clutch hose this time. Now I looked at the “Russen-EPC” and saw that there are apparently two different versions (see photo).Does anyone here know which type of hose has been installed in which cars? (I know I could get the information from Mercedes and then order there, but both versions cost 150€ each which I am not ready to pay for a hydraulic hose).The second question would be if someone changed the hose recently and could provide relevant information for installation and removal: Is it very fuzzy or is it possible? Do you have to pay attention to something special? e perform the repair in a self-help workshop, which is why it is always very practical to consider possible complications already in advance. Thank you in advance for your help! Best regards The scrap metal fanatic

Dear forum! We are just about to decide to buy a vintage car. My preference would be a 114er coupé (250 CE), while my wife would like to have a R107 (380). The differences between the two are of course enormous and difficult to compare. Nevertheless, I would ask for your pros and cons! Thanks in advance and sunny greetings, Thomas