Category: Mercedes Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

Hello together, today I tried it for a long time with rim cleaner, bath cleaner, chrome cleaner and polish to get my rims clean. But unfortunately without much success. That with the 1 shows the rim before cleaning, the 2 after cleaning. What can I do there. That bothers me immensely that the car top is clean, but the rims rot. As much as I know these rims would be used as winter wheels, ….. I still have the steel wheels with the original wheel caps.

Hi together I’m looking for a sports exhaust for my 230CE.Since I was driven in the back the day before yesterday, my exhaust is now defective and I have to buy a new one.Why not just a sports exhaust? Not one where you start the engine and think the world goes down. Rather a subtle one of the nen bischen “bubbert“.I find unfortunately not a single one for my car.Please help me. Thank you in advance 82er Daimler

Hello and good evening. I need some help. In my W123 Coupé I would like to install a new electrical antenna. I have already expanded the old one. From the car/radio a red, a black and a white cable arrive in the trunk. From the new Hirschmann antenna a red and a green one come. If I close the cables together as in the instructions of the antenna then you will not drive again. I should. Instructions connect the red and green of the antenna to the red plus pole cable from the car/radio. But what I want is that the antenna as before with the old antenna only shuts out when I turn on the radio. And when I turn off the radio it should start again. But when I have switched off the radio the right cable combination is not found. I have already connected the red cable from the antenna motor with the black cable and the green one from the antenna motor with the red plus pole cable. Then the radio leads on and see, the antenna runs out. But when I switched off the radio again the antenna has remained outside. WER CAN connect the antenna with the blue cable and the green one from the antenna motor.

Hello, my central lock no longer opened. After researching something and the exclusion procedure I noticed that the working element is leaking in the driver’s door. When the engine is running it blew out of the cylinder well. So I ordered a new one from Mercedes. On the Internet I still found that there is probably an early and a late model of it but both should fit. But that’s not so. The white is the new and the black is the old one. The hole distance that I can screw the cylinder to the door fits, then the cylinder sits so close to the doorpin that the “blech” is much too long in between. Is there an extra sheet of metal that I would have had to buy with it? Does this just speak against a sheet metal to bend and use?https://data.motor-talk.de/…/20171106-201117-56079687043088560.jpg

Hello w116 Community I’ve been on my 280se bj1979 with 286000 km a poltern or knock at the HA for several days. Especially to remember it was when I put about 70kg in the trunk and drove off. Easy knocking while accelerating but then at about 50-60kmh to drive into a left curve it was threateningly loud these poltern. When driving just out it was clearly quieter to almost not at all to hear. When I took the weight out again it was hardly to be heard. Has someone had such a phenomenon before? Would be grateful for any hint. Greetings Robert

Hello, a probably simple question: How do I open the rear doors on a W123-limousine without central locking when they are locked? Can you pull the small locking pin up again (ala Golf II) or do I just pull it through the door handle inside? The latter would be extremely impractical, but it looks to me as if the locking pin has completely disappeared when the door is locked, so you can’t pull it out manually. It’s about a vehicle of the 2nd series (built in 1980). I think the locking pins were longer in the first series and looked out even in the locked state. Thanks and greetings

Hello municipality, for a few weeks after about 30 years again a 123 – this time a 280CE . As far as everything is good, but with the autom. transmission is not quite iO. When starting normally softly the gearbox switches into the next gear, but then switches back again – the speed goes then naturally also high – but only for a few seconds and then goes back to the previous gear. If I drive hard at the stop, he drives as he should. I unfortunately do not know whether the car is driving in the first or second gear. After my memory this is a 4-speed gear, or? That brings me to another question: is there a gear indicator, which indicates the currently inserted gear or how to get to the pears in the dashboard? Vllt are the only defective. Can be good after 33 years … There seems to be something like this after 33 years …

Hi, so far I have been a silent reader, but now I have decided to buy (first) a MB old/youngtimer and hope for your advice. I have hardly had any screwdriver experience, but I am enthusiastic about the old coupés and would like to buy it as a weekend/holiday vehicle. Briefly to my situation: And these would be: Based on this, I have limited my choice to the following series. But I can’t get any further now. I can’t even answer the question if Old/youngtimer. I haven’t driven any of these vehicles so far and would be very pleased to get them. I studied the relevant websites, read here in the forum and bought a few magazines. But personal experiences with the models or your concrete opinions on my case would be very cool! Thank you!

Hello, I have a W115 220D in a garage and would like to try to get it back running again. There were already people from the ÖAMTC (like ADAC in Germany) and a Mercedes classic expert there to make an analysis. In any case, the biggest problem seems to be that the vehicles of the car are rusty. They are supposed to be not so expensive at all, but the work is apparently not very much effort. I myself do not do anything and have no knowledge either, at the most I could do something if you would tell me what to do. In any case, you have to – as far as the front – get the engine out and then to be able to replace the vehicles. It should be easier in the back. From below it seems that I don’t have to do it from above. It was not described to me as being enormously much work or. Probably there is also worse in the world, but how much effort is it really read now? Because getting the engine out is not a problem, because I know enough people who can do it. Have a pit in the garage, though I would like to make it more professionally.

Hello Mercedes municipality, for a few years I already look for a W123. From the thought of a fine weather car my attention has changed now to a Daily Driver. I would drive with the vehicle every day about 50 KM, in every season and weather, country road. I do not need much luxury, the base must be right, even a 200 D would be ok for me because it is a pure pendulum vehicle. But now the decisive point: carburetor vs. injector. I always wanted only injector I had favored a 230 E. Unfortunately, the market is still very empty as far as the 230er is concerned, which is why I look more and more often after 200er (109 HP version). I have learned from an acquaintance, however, that the carburettor engines are an ever greater problem because in many workshops there are no staff anymore that knows how to deal with them and gets the right settings. In my case, this would be impossible in principle, but what does it look like in a very hot or very cold climate, can the carburetor have that? Are injectors basically more reliable? Would you have a motor suggestion for me that is suitable for these challenges apart from this question? My criteria: _Limousine (no T/C) _1980–1985 _Schied roof _ZV _Servo _no velour _if possible still under 200 TKM (no need if condition is good) _Color: preferably silver/dunk elblau _Price: as long as the condition is good for now no price restriction