Category: Mercedes Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

Moin, I have a problem with my 230er with my lowering. I bought H&R 60/40 springs in conjunction with Koni dampers. Only the car is just 40 all around lower (lighter edge) in the back it is good, so I don’t want to put it higher back again. I already have 1er rubbers in the back and at the front I am ready that I have taken the rubbers completely out. For whatever reason it is too high in the front. It stands on 17 x 8.5 et35 with 215/45 tyres. I I’ve been driving around for two weeks in the hope that he’ll sit down, but there’s not really something going on. He’d have to go down 10-20 in the front. Is there anyone who’s offering something? Or any other tricks without flexing the feathers shorter? I’m asking for constructive answers that will reduce driving comfort, or will the cart be horny, let alone capable of being Tüv, I’m aware and don’t care, because he’s just standing around anyway. Thank you very much for any help.

Good evening dear forum users…. Bin Maik and have a w123 Coupe with a 2.3 liter gasoline engine…unfortunately the car has some problems and I hope you can help me there??? So it starts hard when it is on and so slowly comes on the road, come at the gas always give misfires… Also it runs restlessly in the stand… all candles are new as well as the ignition coil… The crackers become partly red when I run it a little higher in the stand… while driving or in the stand takes He doesn’t really gas…This brings me a bit of despair…can you contain this thing???He has a lambda probe s23 with control…For every tip I would be grateful to you… Lg

Hello dear fan community, I would need an assessment regarding two Mercedes pontoons. The one is well preserved, was painted a few years ago completely new and provided with underbody protection. However, it is a US model which is still there. My question would be if it would be worthwhile to bring such a well preserved car to Germany. The second one only serves to rebuild or as part storage, I am not sure if the overshipment costs are there I’ll put on some photos and would be happy if you could give me an opinion or give me a purchase recommendation. The information about the beautiful white man: Type: 180 b Year of construction: 1959 Miles: 53000 Engine: 1.8 Petrol On the type plate in the engine room, the year of construction is not visible, possibly with the years. The green man also has everything, however, in a modest condition, is also a petrolman but I know just nic So as I said, I would be interested in where the white one is priced as a US re-import and whether it is worth shipping an old pontoon with, maybe even one of you is interested. Hope you can help me. Greetings Steffen

Hello star friends, I have the following problem, maybe you have some advice? My 230CE automatic with the M102 simply went off during the ride – and didn’t let it start any more. Organs yes, but jump on: no. The buzzing of the petrol pump was also no longer heard. So probably the KPR. Arrived in the workshop we measured whether the power was connected to the pump: no. Then the KPR was pushed – and the pump was running. The engine also ran. Good: we have an old MB relay in the Who kstatt found (a 6-pole) and used: Lief, or runs. I sent my original KPR to a repairer and soldered it. In parallel, I bought a KPR with the same part number as a used part – as a spare part if that should happen again. Now to my problem: If I use both the repaired KPR as well as the newly acquired used part pass – NOTHING! No surrence from the petrol pump – and thus no jumping. a loaned W124 230E KPR he surrs, starts briefly, but then goes out again, if you don’t press it on the gas. (Has surely something to do with the PIN occupancy – my KPR is 9-pole, the 124er KPR has 10 poles) A fuse for the KPR is not in the fuse box, is it? Does anyone have advice for me? Thank you, always enough pressure on the pump and many greetings from FFM, Taner

Moin, purely out of curiosity, because the thoughts just drifted a little into my automotive past: Whether my 1981 W123 still exists somewhere? Type 123.123 (Limousine 240 D) oriental red sliding roof ZV Servo inside beige an AHK retrofitted by me along with matching warning flash switch heating system for operation with vegetable oil (dumb idea, sorry….) EZ 1981, ordered 1977 I had the car from summer 2003 to summer 2007, last on red oldie number (MK-0728). WDB12312310259321 [edit] was the FIN (seen on the existing copy of the letter) Would be happy to see the car again in pictures. When I sold it, unfortunately the rust was sitting at the bottom of the door. Otherwise he was quite neat together. Thanks for every hint.

Hello together! I have a quite profane question: I have noticed many times that the instrument lighting on my 230 W123 is significantly darker than when I’m driving, so the speed is higher. Is this normal or does the alternator possibly bring too little power in idle mode? Sometimes the instrument lighting suddenly gets a little darker while driving, but shortly after that it gets brighter again. The poti works and I have it up to full brightness. Do you have an idea or Have you had something like this yourself? VG Dominik

Hello dear Mercedes-community, I am actually from the Audi area and have now lost my way to you due to a grief. My father unfortunately died far too early and leaves a cared for w123 which he inherited from his father. Unfortunately, now apart from me no one really wants to burden himself with the car and my father would certainly not have wanted him to leave the family not even a year after his death, which is why I want to take care of now. Now to the car it is a 200 petrol truck with carburettor and retrofitted catalyst BJ 1982. During the lifetime of my father and his father the car was only serviced in the Mercedes-Benz car dealership. Now the TÜV was at the also bravely passed only unfortunately not the AU. According to the test program the car should deliver a CO value of 0.1, but delivers in idle mode proud 4.9 as well as under load 1.9. Now I can fetch it myself only next week, I had hoped because of the good condition The TÜV would be a pure formality. Now my question: the car was now almost a year ago. Before that he was driven only very little there is the hope that a longer exit than the 20km to the TÜV the car again “free to run”. Then again with glowing engine to the TÜV? Maybe again carburetor cleaner fill in and fresh fuel? Does someone possibly have a similar error picture and can give me a good tip, like Lambda probe temperature sensor or similar? Am for each n Tip grateful and best regards

Hello dear ones, I haven’t found the topic, so I’m opening a new one. So far I haven’t done anything myself, but I wanted to get involved slowly. I’ve had a car for 4 years. I’ve had a 1979 280CE and recently I noticed that the engine temperature is rising, even while driving, but mostly when it’s just on and standing. I’ve filled up the fan and coolant. Thermostat was changed about 3 years ago, so it also changed when driving In the photo there is no ignition on. I am very grateful for the ideas.

Hello municipality, I’m new here, but I often read in the forum because of tricks and ideas. Now I need help myself. I own an MB C 123 year 1975 with 109 hp and a Stromberg CD 175 carburettor. The MB was in the workshop because of start-up difficulties. He jumped for a long time crappy, the engine wobbled, went out again, ran like a sack of screws and sounded like that. Repair, three months, because locksmiths holidays, sick, etc. No matter, paid 1200€. The engine then ran very high, but it jumped on and ran. Then came something new, 100km driving, 6 liters of water used. Crack in cylinder 2 and 3. Other workshop, done great work, but the car does not start. 2200 € paid. Since the MB has no rev indicator, I set the ignition free muzzle. Lief, ha he ran. I drove, nearly 1000 km and was happy. So, today in the garage, wanted to drive, but the MB does not want to drive. I’m standing there, I don’t know what to do anymore. A nice car, owning it for 18 years, put money in for no longer. I’m looking for someone in Berlin / Land Brandenburg who wants to help me honestly, that I can drive the sweetheart even further. Hope here in the forum on help. You all have a nice Sunday, HotelVolvo

Hello dear community, my name is Bernd I own a W123 240D and am new here in the forum, I have recently a problem. If the engine is cold, even at summer temperatures, the engine has hardly any power, as soon as it gets warm, so about 60 degrees, it runs completely normal and has the full power, while it does not jerk, runs calmly and does not smoke, also it starts in the cold worse, in the warm condition everything is great. last trip to the mountains. Maybe one of you has experienced this before or an idea what that can be. Thanks already ??