Category: Mercedes Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

Servus beinand, I have a W123 300D Bj 1982 with automatic transmission and have overtaken the front brakes there. In other words, new pads, new discs and the brake calipers (ATE) equipped with new seals, dust sleeve and heat shield. This all went well so far, the brakes are mounted and the wheels also rotate. Now I have the problem that after the venting of the brake system (ventilation by pedal, rear right, rear left, front right, front left) the brake pedal s I thought I scraped the main brake cylinder and therefore installed a new one. But the problem remains the same. I’ve probably ventilated 5 times, but there’s no improvement. What I noticed, in my opinion, when the brake pedal is pedaled, very little brake fluid gets through. Bubbles haven’t been seen for a long time. What can it be about, that no pressure is built up? and no brake fluid from the storage tank and I can’t see any fluid leak on the pipes and saddles, so I assume that the system is tight. Thank you for your help.

Greetings Maybe someone can help me with my braking problem. I have a 190 DC with EZ. 1965. Front discs, rear drums. Despite multiple venting I obviously still have air in the system. Can pedal up to the. floor. If I quickly “pump”, I have a normal pressure point, which also does not change when I stay on the pedal. Drum brake pads are set, hand brake also. Have “classic” with a second man unaired, once first the Disc brakes, then the drums, a second time first the drums – longest line – and then the discs. Then I tried with a one-man vacuum device. Each time only bubble-free brake fluidity came, and each time the condition of the brake rack has not changed. What am I doing wrong, or what am I missing? Thank you for your advice.

Servus Dear community, I need a little purchase advice from you experts and I have been thinking about getting a vintage car for a long time. It’s been my big dream since I was a kid. About me: I’m 23 years old and I’ve saved a bit the last few years and I want to fulfill the dream of w123. Since I’m living and working in the city I use my current car almost never and would like to exchange it for a vintage car. A garage is also at my disposal. It will be a nice weather and Sunday car. PS and equipment are absolutely unimportant to me. My problem, I don’t know about cars and have no experience with the screwdriver craft. I would like to get into the hobby. I also need a neighbor who works in an old-timer workshop, which can occasionally go to my hand and could also accompany me to a visit. I’ve been looking at the following ads for some time.https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/2189811954-216-15243https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/2224419720-216-7403 I hope you can help me decide a little and maybe give me some tips. It’s important to me that I have as a beginner as few problems as possible at the beginning and also do something on my own. An important question that has occupied me for a long time: how realistic it is to drive such a car with my profile without having to invest a lot of money in the beginning. Do you think that is possible or maybe I should rather look at the successor, that is the 190. It is not quite as elegant as its predecessor, but I would also like it, but in the 190s only a VorMopf would be possible, since I am absolutely not a fan of the Sacco boards. How do you see that? Thank you in advance and say hello to Alex

Hello dear forum, I am interested in a 220 SE convertible, EZ 22 September 1960, until 1992 approved in the USA. In the original data card are listed the following equipment codes, which I would have liked to decrypt: 1. 55131 2. 1221/3-180 3. 10337/2 4. USA10014-128 5.55087/5 Point 4 summarizes what a USA version has made up. Of course, I would also be interested in what is behind it in detail. Would be grateful for any help! Greetings Peter

Halli-Hello, my 280 TE 1983, 3rd series with M110 starts hot/hot after a “cooling phase” of 5-60 minutes only after the fourth start attempt again. First it starts on a cylinder, for 3-5 seconds, then suddenly on all cylinders as if nothing had been done. No ignition oscillators while driving, runs as it should. Another hint; -if I warm up the car and start immediately again, it starts immediately again. So between one to four minutes of service life the engine immediately starts again. Only then from a service life of about 5 minutes until (…) it no longer wants, or – as described above – it starts very reluctantly. And if it is quite cold, (in the early morning e.g.) it starts immediately!? Greetings Tombi

Hello, the key of my W123 (1983 200 gasoline) is broken, so the black plastic mount and so the key falls from the key ring. The easiest way would be to get to the key service but there are only ugly blanks. An original key is available at Mercedes for 27 euros against presentation of the ID card and the bill. As far as so good, a few hours later the dealer calls, he needs the data card to order my car to the key. I have in the origi nal service booklet in the back a page with many numbers, among other things the tire size but there I can discover nothing that looks like this 3 digit number and also no indication to the key manufacturer. My dealer says he can request a data card for 150 Euro ! Does anyone have an idea where I get this number or an original blank? Thank you for your help

Hello, now that it’s under 10 degrees outside again, my 190’s problems with the cold start. Starting it does quite normal but the speed increase is virtually on and off. At warmer temperatures, the cold start is quite normal but sometimes it makes a garkein cold start pure. What could that be about? Thanks in advance already.

Hello people I’m in despair so slowly. I just can’t do it with the Stromberg 175CD carburetor. When the car is cold it runs well, when it gets warm and is, either high standing gas or it runs very fat and goes out after a short time. During the start attempt it only starts with full gas and then comes out of the deepest cellar. I already have rep. set and ultrasonic baths behind me. Only seals I didn’t get is the one from the fuel adjustment screw down to d He float chamber A0119973945 and a small screw on the left of the cold start device. An explanation of the adjustment screw and an order number would be very nice. Also a hint of adjustment work would be nice. I already have those for the 175 CDTU and the 175 CDT. But they do not necessarily help me further. Otherwise spark plugs, plugs, cables, cap and fingers as well as the benzienpump are new. I hope you can stand with advice and action at the side. Greeting XJPaul

Good evening, for a long time I inform myself about the 123 as Coupe, because I like this timeless design simply incredibly well! I would possibly consider the limousine even with a good catch, however, the coupé more liked me. Some purchase tips for this model are already in old articles here, however, these are partly over 10 years old… I would like to use the vehicle at least 3-4 times a week, so it will not be a Sunday car. arage is available It is important for me not to look at every euro, it is essential that I have my peace of mind with appropriate maintenance. Now a few questions: 1. Automatic or switch, apart from the slightly higher consumption, offers the automatic essential advantages over the switch? 2. Get one with or without H plates, what are your opinions here? 3. Where do you currently see a “fair price” for this car? With the condition that it can be taken care-free. 4. What about 2022 with spare parts? Are these still sufficient and affordable? 5. How critical do you see the mileage, with appropriate maintenance? From when would you say, fingers off? 6. Regarding the engine, which would you prefer here? Which at least makes the problems? 7. Last but not least, there are significant differences between the coupé and the limousine in terms of quality, engines etc… So, that should have been it for the time being. your trouble and another nice week

Dear Mercedes comrades, unfortunately a rubber bearing on my w115 240D was contested at the right rear angler and now I have to change it. Of course, I want to exchange both of them when I am already there. For this I wanted to loosen the angler first and then completely expand it. I could only get the bolt left out in which I have suspended the cardan shaft at the differential. However, I can’t get out the right bolt at all because it is standing on the body plate. so you can expand the entire rear axle to expand the angler? And if so, can someone give me a tip on how to best proceed? Thank you! Gruss, Michael