Category: Mercedes Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

I am proud owner of a 209D year 1987 from my father’s estate. It is a van converted as a caravan. To the problem: the fog lamp does not work. Two lamps were mounted at the lower part of the rear bumper. The left lamp had no bulb at all and the plus line went to the right lamp and from there a white cable into the interior. Unfortunately there is a floor there so that I can not continue the cable. The cable is without spa nnung. Question: Is the fog lamp running over a fuse? Since I usually only see a fog lamp mounted on the left on most of the pictures of a T1, but in my case the cable is in the interior on the right, I assume that for whatever reason Father has moved the original line from left to right and then laid a bridge from right to left. If I don’t find the error, I will move a new cable and only install the left fog lamp. Connect the cable: directly at the light switch or is there a relay or another point in the front room so that I can save myself the expansion of the light switch? Thank you!

I actually dared to buy a small rear fin W110 2.0 Diesel. I was in love immediately and could buy it cheaply. Had three previous owners. I now look for someone who comes close to me and helps me to change the cylinder head gasket, as exhaust gases are pressed in the cooler and the brake is stick hard. Either something is wrong with the vacuum or the brake power amplifier is gone. I am just a hobby screwdriver myself, but I also like to fan, which means I’ll hang a par picture on it and if you want to take a look at it with me, you’ll be very welcome in Gladbeck. Gasoline and so on. Of course, you’ll be happy to contact me via PN. Report! Lg Robert

Hello, I have a problem with my W123 230TE from 1984, which unfortunately starts badly. The problem occurs irregularly and is not reliably reproducible. The following happens: When I turn the key, the starter goes off normally, but the engine only lights up when I give gas. My feeling tells me that the engine starts properly only after a little oil pressure. On some days the engine starts immediately, without any problems. On other days, however, I have the problem m, that he starts, but doesn’t really come up high. He stutters, stops and acts as if he’s going out immediately. Without giving gas, the engine would probably go out directly again. Does anyone have an idea what this might be about? I am happy about every tip! Thank you in advance!

Moin dear forum community, in the diesel filter of my 240 D 3.0 was water. So there is probably also water in the tank. Actually incomprehensible because this year I have already consumed 4 to 5 tank fillings. The car runs now again but the water has to be bound. Which of the many available on the market is recommended? Would it make sense to thank the Benz over the winter e.g. with Ultimate Diesel?

Moin, I have a problem with my 230er with my lowering. I bought H&R 60/40 springs in conjunction with Koni dampers. Only the car is just 40 all around lower (lighter edge) in the back it is good, so I don’t want to put it higher back again. I already have 1er rubbers in the back and at the front I am ready that I have taken the rubbers completely out. For whatever reason it is too high in the front. It stands on 17 x 8.5 et35 with 215/45 tyres. I I’ve been driving around for two weeks in the hope that he’ll sit down, but there’s not really something going on. He’d have to go down 10-20 in the front. Is there anyone who’s offering something? Or any other tricks without flexing the feathers shorter? I’m asking for constructive answers that will reduce driving comfort, or will the cart be horny, let alone capable of being Tüv, I’m aware and don’t care, because he’s just standing around anyway. Thank you very much for any help.

Good evening dear forum users…. Bin Maik and have a w123 Coupe with a 2.3 liter gasoline engine…unfortunately the car has some problems and I hope you can help me there??? So it starts hard when it is on and so slowly comes on the road, come at the gas always give misfires… Also it runs restlessly in the stand… all candles are new as well as the ignition coil… The crackers become partly red when I run it a little higher in the stand… while driving or in the stand takes He doesn’t really gas…This brings me a bit of despair…can you contain this thing???He has a lambda probe s23 with control…For every tip I would be grateful to you… Lg

Hello dear fan community, I would need an assessment regarding two Mercedes pontoons. The one is well preserved, was painted a few years ago completely new and provided with underbody protection. However, it is a US model which is still there. My question would be if it would be worthwhile to bring such a well preserved car to Germany. The second one only serves to rebuild or as part storage, I am not sure if the overshipment costs are there I’ll put on some photos and would be happy if you could give me an opinion or give me a purchase recommendation. The information about the beautiful white man: Type: 180 b Year of construction: 1959 Miles: 53000 Engine: 1.8 Petrol On the type plate in the engine room, the year of construction is not visible, possibly with the years. The green man also has everything, however, in a modest condition, is also a petrolman but I know just nic So as I said, I would be interested in where the white one is priced as a US re-import and whether it is worth shipping an old pontoon with, maybe even one of you is interested. Hope you can help me. Greetings Steffen

Hello star friends, I have the following problem, maybe you have some advice? My 230CE automatic with the M102 simply went off during the ride – and didn’t let it start any more. Organs yes, but jump on: no. The buzzing of the petrol pump was also no longer heard. So probably the KPR. Arrived in the workshop we measured whether the power was connected to the pump: no. Then the KPR was pushed – and the pump was running. The engine also ran. Good: we have an old MB relay in the Who kstatt found (a 6-pole) and used: Lief, or runs. I sent my original KPR to a repairer and soldered it. In parallel, I bought a KPR with the same part number as a used part – as a spare part if that should happen again. Now to my problem: If I use both the repaired KPR as well as the newly acquired used part pass – NOTHING! No surrence from the petrol pump – and thus no jumping. a loaned W124 230E KPR he surrs, starts briefly, but then goes out again, if you don’t press it on the gas. (Has surely something to do with the PIN occupancy – my KPR is 9-pole, the 124er KPR has 10 poles) A fuse for the KPR is not in the fuse box, is it? Does anyone have advice for me? Thank you, always enough pressure on the pump and many greetings from FFM, Taner

Moin, purely out of curiosity, because the thoughts just drifted a little into my automotive past: Whether my 1981 W123 still exists somewhere? Type 123.123 (Limousine 240 D) oriental red sliding roof ZV Servo inside beige an AHK retrofitted by me along with matching warning flash switch heating system for operation with vegetable oil (dumb idea, sorry….) EZ 1981, ordered 1977 I had the car from summer 2003 to summer 2007, last on red oldie number (MK-0728). WDB12312310259321 [edit] was the FIN (seen on the existing copy of the letter) Would be happy to see the car again in pictures. When I sold it, unfortunately the rust was sitting at the bottom of the door. Otherwise he was quite neat together. Thanks for every hint.

Hello together! I have a quite profane question: I have noticed many times that the instrument lighting on my 230 W123 is significantly darker than when I’m driving, so the speed is higher. Is this normal or does the alternator possibly bring too little power in idle mode? Sometimes the instrument lighting suddenly gets a little darker while driving, but shortly after that it gets brighter again. The poti works and I have it up to full brightness. Do you have an idea or Have you had something like this yourself? VG Dominik