Category: Opel Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

Hello in the round! First of all I introduce myself briefly: My name is Dominik, I am 39 years old and I have already driven some vintage cars, especially in the area Altopel (among others record D/E). I have already started the hobby “Oldtimer” for about 20 years, at that time with beetles. For the next season I want to fish a Kadett D. My view has fallen on this museum piece, which is probably already known to one or other: https://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Adett is said to have less than 10,000 km on the clock and is completely original in the new car condition. The price is fine with m.M. Unfortunately, the “serious” dealer has extremely bad reviews and the car is very far from my home town (300 km). What do you think of the car? You must know that I have always only bought firsthand vehicles from the 70s/80s and was always satisfied so far. Rather spend a little more than invest thousands in repairs afterwards. … Currently I have a 1985 MB 190E from first hand with just 40,000 km on the clock. You see, that’s possible. 🙂 Maybe someone from the corner of Overath comes and could look at the vehicle for me? If it is actually as jewellery as in the pictures, I would buy the part for the coming season. The 1200 sewing machine engine doesn’t bother me – it depends on the overall condition. Also the lean “luxury” equipment doesn’t bother me. The vehicle will be with me anyway. r as second-oldie moved in nice weather. Thank you and many greetings Dominik

Super 95, Super 95 Plus or what they’re all called, Super 98? Lead additive needed or not? It’s an Ascona B 13N, BJ 04.1980, 60 HP; There’s already a similar question, but couldn’t really read something out.

Moin, I have the following problem: the Choke-Hebel at my Ascona C Built 82, can only be pushed in half and the car does not start any more. I drove to work this morning still quite normally, everything was good. I drove with the drawn Choke to work, because the track is quite short and I was in a hurry and I did not push the lever back in when I turned off the car. Grade when trying to start it I heard that the Choke was still a The battery was dead shortly afterwards and the bridge cable didn’t use anything. I looked at the lever on the carburettor and everything can be moved well. The Bowden train runs free as well. I am now a bit helpless, because I am not driving an old car for long and I have only recently been dealing with the technology. n must. Is it because of the cold? Can’t imagine that 0 degrees already take care of it and this morning he also jumped. It was probably the very short distance he doesn’t like, right?

Dear Opel municipality, I’ve got a fire-fighting guide vehicle record E1 Caravan 2.0E with automatic. The vehicle stood there for about 2 years still. A jump was very heavy, but the engine runs great and has a really good performance with its 110 hp. The record still has the L-Jetronic and is original from Jan. 1981. 50tkm. When the car stands 1 day, it starts just as hard as originally after 2 years. I made the AU today and he had a CO value of 0.28 Super like I mean, without a cat! Why does he always start well, except after more than 24 hours? Does anyone know advice?

Hello I’m new here, but maybe you can help me.I’m driving a ’73 record-1,7l. because the driving performance is anything but a record suspect I would like to know if it would somehow be possible to help my second best piece to achieve a bit more performance. since I want to let him run this year on h-marks are things like motörchen out and motor pure not possible:-( there are companies that have such a thing or have someone like that–what costs something–what brings-gi bts except weber and solex still other double carburettor for opel???questions about questions how much can I actually pack on it without having to install on brakes etc. I am very grateful for every tip any help!!!!! oh how difficult is it to connect a speedometer ???have one of nem gt and would like to have it with me in-possible?? with best greetings jürsche

Hello, if you drive a C-Kadett, then I would be interested in what kind of engine you have in it? What rear-driven vehicles were delivered by Opel with G-Kat at least with the option. From when did Opel install injectors. I know that the Omega G-Kat has, but this engine is difficult to fit in the C-Kadett. Since I still have time I wanted to build up a C-Kadett with G-Kat. Because oldtimer and then new technology under the sheet metal would be my taste. Can I also use Lin ks if you know any. Thank you and greeting Edsel

Hi! I drive an Ascona-C 2.0i with G-Kat and now have the following problem… When I accelerate I feel a slight jerking (nothing extreme, but very annoying!), it feels like the car would fall into a power hole again and again when it accelerates. Even with normal rides e.g. at a constant 50Kmh it jerks, even if I don’t speed up. that makes itself most noticeable when driving downhill. I have already replaced the following parts: – all Ignition lines – all spark plugs – Distribution cap – Distribution fingers – Air filter – Gasoline filter I also had the car connected to a tester. The ignition image says that with the ignition everything is ok. Furthermore, a master from Opel told me that it could not be the Lambda probe or the air quantity mixer, otherwise the indicator light would light up and thus a mistake would be made. What can it be about? Can anyone help me? I thank you already in the ahead!

Hello, I have here an Opel Ascona C, 1987, 1,6i Kat, 75 HP. 4-door. My problem is now the handbrake. In 1 month I have to go to the TÜV and it can be pulled up to the 5/6 rest. That means it should be repositioned. The rope is extremely loose below. The two wheels with the drum brake still brake evenly when I pull down on the rope. Well, however, it can not be easily adjusted, since the nut is rusted on the thread rod. Spraying with Mo was so far erf Could anyone help me here or give me some good advice?

Hello together, my Manta B GSI, BJ 7/86, was shut down for 13 years and now I am in the process of activating it. I had to replace all fuel lines. At the front everything was easy, at the back it is a bit more complicated at the moment from the procurement side. Since I am a learned screwdriver, I hope from my post here maybe a few tips. In the back I have the with, and dismantled. The hoses fell apart – are now also 30 years old. I could also buy and replace most hoses without problems. Alone a very thick (a short piece of this hose was also ) was for me with no car parts dealer (Blöcker, Schneider, Büge, Matthies …) to find. My next attempt is the one with the local Opel dealer – maybe the area spare parts (for old-opel?) can help me. On the other was a second petrol hose, which had a relatively thick, but only an inner diameter of approx. 7.5 mm. A uch this one was quite rotten below the floor plate, so I want to exchange it. But that also does not seem to me to be a “normal” petrol hose. Since I did not know until a few days ago which parts are installed below the tank, I would be happy about explanations about the components , and . My thin knowledge is based on Internet research. Who can explain these parts and the function to me a little bit more? I have packed four photos in the attachment. 1. The dirt of the years 2. De r coarsest dirt must be lowered 3. The two hoses to the tank 4. Extensive carrier with old components 5. Extensive carrier with partly new components A nice weekend!

I got n Commodore and I want to make it right. you can find my ideas at http://www.phase-3.de/opel/oplcom.htm and it didn’t take even 3 days. Maybe there are some more creative heads among us who have a different idea. For next year in Oschersleben he should be finished. The car is ‘n Berlina with automatic and real 86 tkm on the clock. Unfortunately was only lantern parker, and you notice that on doors and wheel runs. Motor purrs like kittens. But original it is – so I think that, just worth it. Do you friends, am really excited what comes out of it. GRZ Corry