Category: Opel Youngtimer & Oldtimer Forum

Hello! I might like to buy this car here. www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx What about it? Is the engine robust? It should run in everyday life next year, can one get the engine a little cleaner from it? Speak kat, Klr or similar? MfG Marcus

Hello! I am looking for new tyres. At the moment I still have 205/60 R13 (too old!) on my Ascona B (freshly bought). If I understand the ATS parts report correctly, should I not drive it without broadening??? (“A sufficient coverage of the tyre treads on axle 1 is to be produced by mounting parts or other suitable measures.” No idea why the TÜV did not object to this??? Now to the point, I would like to now with all year round tyres Since the Ascona can be very difficult to rank, I have considered whether it does not also do narrow tires and look good. Can someone recommend me a size? Or do other wheel/tire combinations look stupid? I also play with the thought of a 4cm lowering but without new shock absorbers, because it is already hard enough for me. But supposed to work. Gruss, Bob

Hello I don’t know if this belongs here but I’ll try it! So 2 weeks ago I bought an old farmhouse, when searching in the old barn the shock!! behind a tractor was an old cadet GTE thought first I don’t really see because I had sold mine only 2 years ago. Now my question is if a restoration is worth it is from 1979 rust he has what I have seen so far only strobe he covered with straw. I want him as he stands there not without Since he loudly had the previous owner whom I approached a few days ago for almost 30 years, the man had driven him only briefly and had to give up everything because of illness. According to tacho the just 6423km should have driven My problem is that he does not let himself be pushed by hand at least!!He has to build out there because of barns, garage I have yes but if it is so good to pull out with the train machine I don’t know. What do I have to do with the car everything we So I can even start it without damaging anything?

Moin Leutz, a few little questions, since I’m thinking about getting a manta and I don’t really have much idea about the car….. probably comes from the call, but that’s exactly why I think it’s right now….egal; would be very grateful for a few answers: What does a manta cost in insurance? What does it cost in taxes? Is it quite reliable? What does it consume?

Hello, my Monza 2.5 E , Jg 82 no longer has the full power. Kilometer level 150 ́000 acceleration is no longer intoxicating(was never) but it was a little better before. Highway max. 140Km/(formerly about 195) and on the mountain on the track no more faster than about 80-90Km/h.(is depressing) Until recently I have always added lead to the 98okt until I have read in several forums that this will pollute the valve shaft seats and therefore cause a compression loss In addition, these people have been driving without lead additives for a long time and without any problems as they wrote. However, I only drive without an addition after he had no performance (of course only as a Sunday car) compression tested – on all 6cylinders 10-10,5Bar I find as too little, but if, why on all cylinders? I don’t find logically that all compression loses. In addition, too much oil (from the crankcase) accumulates in the suction hose, which pollutes the LMM. I replaced the LMM and additional air slide, because the cold start was also very bad. (Cold start now perfect again) Does anyone have experience with these problems and maybe give me a tip whether it’s the valves or the piston rings that could slowly give up the mind. Or maybe another idea? Thank you in advance.

I have an urgent problem: I noticed yesterday that my cooling water freezes below zero and my workshop only meant that I could do that with the draining myself. I can’t do that. I solved all the bells earlier, but the hoses are hard like stone, they can’t be pulled off. What else is there to do? It’s in an underground garage, but it’s supposed to be up to minus 12 degrees the days. I’m just getting full on the hose as it goes on now. or other workshops will certainly not bother to go there, towing service had once made me a scratch in the car. I can not do that either. What else do I have for possibilities? cut all hoses through? or does this even bigger problems? I could then fill nothing more with frost protection

Hello, I wanted to know what the 2.5 liter (Opel Commodore A 2.5S(88kw) with 3speed automatic) consumes. I already read a lot from 9litres to 17L/100km. What are your averages?

Hello people am new here first I greet all of you. Now to my problem. I have recently been a proud owner of a 74er manta a super car is very chic But to my problem now as a petite little line would be very nice to me a servo steering. But unfortunately there is no one for mine. My question is you could upgrade one or fit those of record and Commodore who have what??? Thanks for your answers ))

Hello forum! A few days ago, a friend who bought a rest yard pulled a Manta B GT/E out of a barn. There are no papers or similar information about the car. During the inspection, we noticed that the FIN was welded under the carpet on a 120×60 piece of sheet metal next to the passenger seat (bad). Since I am an enthusiastic screwdriver I played with the idea to make the car fit again, but this was due to the not original FIN The sheet metal is only dotted in and smeared with body seal. The numbers have probably been beaten into the sheet itself with hit numbers. Anyway, there is no lock sign in front of and behind the number (Raute or similar) Is the car worthless? What can you do now best? Demonstrate and scrap the body body and get a Rokarosserie with a letter? Is there still a FIN in the vehicle somewhere else? Don’t have any types either? Sign found in engine compartment. MfG, FaberCastell92

After having reworked the brake at the front of my manta, I now go to the . I take apart a drum brake for the first time and would like to work with this topic on the structure and the functioning of the brake gradually. I have attached a graphic to this article, in which I marked the components of the brake. I would be happy if someone – if I had interpreted something wrong – would point that out to me. I will use grinding paper to use the brake drum. inside (system surfaces of the brake pads) free as evenly as possible from the coarse rust. Since the wheel brake cylinders can be obtained very cheaply, I would renew them precautionarily. And since the pads also do not cost the world, a change would also be useful here. Thanks in advance once again for your help.