Category: US Cars Forum

Hello everybody, I’m new here and now looking for info, my Google search was unfortunately not very successful because as always a lot of things completely contradict each other. We, my husband and I, would like to have a US-Car Muscle Car. Only now is the question, is there ever a suitable classic car or is this just a dream? Because otherwise we have to use the 300c again However, my better half also likes with a Volvo Amazone, if the Car half-way suitable for everyday use ? Unfortunately I am still a bit unsuspecting about. LG Tasha

Since I intend to restore my astro from the ground up, this question arises for me. Yes, I hear it again, such a bowl is not worth the effort….. It’s just a matter of opinion, and as a Daily Driver I found nothing better for two adults and three dogs (and we are talking about the appropriate size here). Furthermore, almost ten years have already welded us together. Back to the topic: so galvanizing yes or no. Even in Oldtimerkreisen one is not there g. The frame and all more massive parts such as transverse handlebars, axle parts and holders should be treated. Pro with melting bath galvanizing, each angle is reached and one finds relatively easily someone who does it. Contra, pickling baths may eat further around the frame even after galvanizing, possible delay, and possibly trouble with the TÜV. Pro with injection galvanizing, no delay, contra, cavities are badly achieved, TÜV anger. Or rather just let shine and hempadur zinc on it, followed by eating epoxy primer and a chassis varnish? And which chassis varnish take? Questions about questions. Who has had experience and can help?

Hello! I have to tell you a strange story: Last night my Buick made problems. He stuttered, then he went out and didn’t want to.. Then pushed him about 20 meters far to the next parking lot where he then sprang up again. However, he had hardly any performance, he stuttered and the service lamp lit.. This morning when I wanted to drive into the garage everything was again like before. Service lamp was gone, he stutters no more and also has normal performance again.. Can anyone explain that to me?!? Greetings

Hello all to each other; my Park Avenue has had a little trouble with switching the automatic last time. But I can now exclude the automatic, since it does the same without automatics (in P). So: If you step the accelerator only about 1/4, the engine behaves quite normal, but: if you press a little more, then the engine grumbles around, and it stutters up the speed. So, what can that be???? I have heard something of a clog Kat, but how ka n n am testing this, or is it at all??? The GM people in Augsburg and Munich know nothing at all! mfg mike69

Hello Loide, I’m new here and have a little problem with my 440 magnum. Maybe you can help me. The maschiene doesn’t pull at all in the lower speed range (300 – 2000 rpm), or the engine almost sucks off when starting or with strong acceleration from the lower speed range and stutters if, for example, I don’t bring it to over 2500 rpm when starting at the traffic light. The same picture arises when accelerating from about 60kmh in 4 gear (4-speed manual): the maschiene krie If there is a full power drop (this doesn’t happen during gentle acceleration), the big block runs in idle mode at 300 rpm and is also running round (hot nock??). It is still striking that this power drop occurs only under medium to heavy load, i.e. if I turn up the machia in idle mode or very gently accelerate, it runs perfectly and there is no power drop. In order to fix the problem, the ignition was completely re-set 3 months ago, Zündk and the compression is measured (compression was very different per cylinder, but in the tolerance range specified by Dodge in the service manual). Now my question is to you: what can this be? Is the carburettor the problem? Do the intake spider, cam and carburettor may not fit together? How can I find this without taking the whole engine apart? Thx for your help!

Hello, so after some Air RIde screw , I came back to the BRremkraftverstäker… So today at the PRobefahrt …I have determined that as soon as I turn on the brake a hissing noise comes from the BKV / appearance …unfortunately the noise is constantly so until I go back off the pedal then everything seems to be tight !! at least you hear nothing !!!! What can be lazy !!?? Are there overtaking kits for such a thing and how can I actually find out the type there no sign / sign etc. seen on it ???? Greetings achim

Hello everyone, just put my Buick back the track Oklahoma – Los Angeles without any problems. Unbelievable how well it feels, despite its almost 300t km. The only drawback: the chassis is so softly tuned that I drive around the curves as carefully as with none of my cars – not because of the curve radius, but because the roads here are not as smooth as in Germany and a floor shaft sometimes results in the car flipping twice. In a curve is My question: is this normal with the Buick or do I have to change the Stossdampfer? My Ford Taurus wasn’t so soft, my sister’s Honda Odyssey is just as hard-tuned as “normal” German cars. Greetings from Los Angeles, Daniel

Hi! Besides the USA there seems to be the highest stock in Switzerland. Many US-cars were imported from Switzerland, as well as my Camaro. Was Switzerland the most supplied with US-cars? Seems to be going for quite a long time, you get almost every one there.

Hello I missed some time ago my vette a completely overhauled 350 4bolt engine for it was also an overhauled supercharger installed by the company pro-charger as carburetor have recommended me the amis a Demon 650 Mighti now we come to my problem the engine runs in stand until 2000 revolutions super the fitting valve is connected to permanent vacuum and works well is open in stand gas and closes with increasing speed so the system the charging pressure of about 0.6 ba r can build up until then I understand the history of the carburettor still has a vacuum connection which according to the description vacuum instrumentl calls itself now the question is connected here the hei distributor with a vacuum can or does it at all with such a distributor because somehow he must go in early ignition with the permanent vacuum connection at which also the fitting valve is connected it doesn’t go there he starts to become reversing is yes somewhere clear because the vacuum is losing and slowly the charge pressure is building up so people can help me or I need another distributor where is the hook I want to finally enjoy v8 again mfg

Hello We had a little us car meeting recently and there was one with a ́cuda with it converted to Hemi. Then the discussion came on which musclecar was the strongest which was running serially from the band. I was of the opinion that it was the Chevelle SS 454. But I don’t know so much about it. Can anyone of you tell me that ? Would super. Thanks in advance, Martin