Category: US Cars Forum

Servus I have recently been a quit out of the engine room. What amazes me: – it only occurs after 1-2min – only from the 3rd gear at the slanting – then it only stops for 1-2min and then remains silent the whole driving time. – hummed when I walk from the gas – comes from the passenger side. – after 30min parking, the procedure stops. I switched to the WE OIL and had only the assumption that what came on the belts, but nothing can be seen from above. s the next agregate hang short? Otherwise nothing inconspicuous can be observed. Before I buy new straps and spanners now, did one have an idea or similar?

Hello people I am looking for headlights housing with aluminum frame the new must and headlights according to our standards to explain the Caprice has indeed 4 headlights the outer with dimming far light the inner only far light and a small hole for a small stand light lamp. I found only Ami norm and not available. More important to me, however, are the plastic housings where the headlights have their seat and the alu frame that I would like to find new nowhere. Maybe someone has at home The front of the Caprice should become new with the time. I add photos so you know what I’m looking for by the way, thank you to all a super forum here

Moin together, next construction site. The door panel of the driver’s door dissolves so slowly. The material is a kind of insulation board. This is now soft and shabby, the corners are sometimes no longer available and the fastening nipples are torn out. From the chrome strip down it is really gammelig. For repair I have thought of three different possibilities. 1. Glue with a mixture of wallpaper paste and Ponal wood glue. The secret recipe from my teaching as Schaufenstem a) Punch in, pull in and let dry several times from the inside with the stuff, so that it becomes stable again. To hold the shape, you have to fix with plastic foil, two wooden plates and screw clamps. b) Do not mix missing parts with several layers of paper generously overlapped. Also fix here. c) Cut the overhanging corners suitable after drying and cut holes for the plastic nipples. 2. GRP, the hardcore a) The part completely from the inside with fluüssi (c) After drying, cut and drill holes for the nipples. To protect the leather or spray with silicone spray. 3. Rebuild plywood cladding. This can only be done with straight spots, such as the bottom part from chrome strip. Armrest and handle groove are OK. (a) Place and mark cladding on plywood, saw out b) With polyester and S Toffbahnen connect the transition between the original part and the replica. Which of the three possibilities is useful here? Or is there something else? After that the decoration comes with a new carpet. Whether I should stick it again in the original green or rather match the car in red I don’t know yet. Greeting Achim

Hi guys, my Coyote (BJ 2014) has been suffering a little for over a year. The following problem: Every few months I have the problem that the engine control lights are concerned for a few days or weeks. When I start the engine, it runs noticeably round during the first (approx.) 5 minutes and is much more prone to swabbing. As soon as it is reasonably warm, the problem disappears. When reading out the engine control unit, the following result always comes: Error code P0204 – Injectionve ntil (cylinder 4) – static. But the strange thing is that this phenomenon did not occur once this year for almost 6 months at a time. Now I have it almost daily for about 3 weeks. My workshop, of course, as the first solution, had to exchange the injection valve/nozzle. The whole is supposed to cost 225 euros (125 euros for the valve). The price seems fair, but maybe that’s not the problem. The master had also offered me that I spontaneously before However, the way to the workshop is longer than 5 minutes, so that the error would have disappeared again; possibly until the next day or significantly longer. My question: Does anyone know these symptoms and/or has an idea where the actual cause might lie? (Not that it is on the engine control unit or anything else and I had a new injection valve installed completely for free). EDIT: Vlt still relevant: a few months e before the first occurrence of the problem I had a gas plant installed, because I drive about 35k km per year. While the problem occurs acutely, sometimes the gas plant also refuses its service.

Hello dear people, I have now driven the new gearbox at my Continental and eliminated all the errors all around. But the automatic makes trouble. When switching up the machine is relatively strong, when switching from the 1st to the 2nd gear. As oil Mannol Dexron III Plus was filled with Mercon V specification and now I wonder if it is also the right oil. I have telephoned with Mannol and got another “Universal Oil” recommended. According to Ford, Mercon must be in there This was changed as far as I know, so that everything that should run with Mercon should now run with Mercon V. The US car dealer from my vicinity was not sure either and I meant to try it with Lubegard Platinum first. This could do wonders, but I really don’t believe it. But well, I have now tipped it in and drove about 80 km with it and noticeably changes. Someone knows this oil and knows if it might be the wrong thing for my gearbox. ? I have built an AX4N. I look forward to your answers.

Hello together. I got a ’65 Chevy Impala 327ci from USA. To register I still need a data sheet for the 5.7l, 350ci the lt. previous owner was installed in 70s. At tüv nord it was said, it is no problem. Will take 2-4 days until the papers are there. If you only need an extra data sheet for car and one for engine. That was about 3 weeks ago. Yesterday it was for engine have not found a data sheet yet. In 1970 the 5.7l was also installed at Impala. Can anyone help me? Does anyone have a data sheet for 3970014, 350ci, 5.7l original Chevy engine, or Impala with the same engine? Thanks in advance… Vedran

HallO people.. yes.. the topic of car import has already been worked on ten times… so far everything is clear…. two cars are bought and paid.. I just want to ask if someone has already had experiences with ASI or Rinkens…. are there recommendations? It is about a transport of two cars (Chevelle SS and Streiach) from South Dakota to Munich – front door. I am happy if you tell me about your experiences.. and please only facts.. I have read after chewing through the third person. further Threats saves.. there is simply too much polarized and laughed. 🙂 Many greetings and a nitter-free season Sascha

Hello together. Had today had a discussion with my work colleague (who thinks all evil comes from America) about the regulated cat. He believes that the Europeans have introduced the regulated cat. I don’t quite believe it. That’s why I would like to know since when exactly in the USA and the EU the regulated catalyst has been prescribed by law and who (car manufacturer) built the first unregulated or regulated cat !? Thank you

Hello together, let’s start with the most important thing, the idea. My name is Felix, I’m born in ’74, married and have 2 children. My real hobby is Star Wars and there specifically the armament construction and of course the dressing. I am a member of the 501st, on the way in many forums and even Forenadmin. Now the technical idea:-) 2 left hands I have not, but more than one Vespa 50N motor split, tune and rebuild, I have not done yet. I just want to consume and have fun. For some time (about 20 years) I’ve been on the oldtimer trip, especially US classic cars. I just find the cars beautiful and strong in character. Especially pick-ups did it to me. Now I thought it was time to get one too. After a little research I came across this forum here. Since I prefer a Chevy C20 (1960-66), I thought I was quite far away. Car also found here. I find the car great! But now some forum posts about this dealer easily irritated me. I can do this at Stormtrooper-Aüstungen. Again we have dealers who place a lot of value on great pictures, but the armor is the last scrap. These dealers have fans, enviers and “meider”. I think that’s the same at RDC. Well my questions (sorry because of the long intro): – is the model a useful entry into the pick-up topic? – is this car also found here. Offer ok, in the sense of: get in, go off? I can say little at the price. But to me the price seems ok with this condition. (TüV and H-certificate on top) – are there other dealers in D who offer a similarly large offer and a similar service? Puh, I think that’s it for the first time. If not news from you now like: are you mad, give me the money. …would I of course look at the car before buying (also with a mechatronics engineer who, although not sure, would give me the money. … Cheers, Felix.

Hello, I’ve informed myself a little bit but I still want to get some more information. I know there are many thread on this topic but my phone calls differ greatly. I live near Osnabrück and I am looking for a company that seals my car hollow space and install an underfloor protection. I read prices of 200 400 euros again and again. I called some companies. They said about 3 days work with dry ice floi d film transparent several layers about 1300 Euro. With photo documentation etc. Everything is glued on and built apart. Now I am not a professional and have obtained several information. Do you have any tips or experience whether an expensive coating is worthwhile. I want to drive the car also in winter. With friendly greetings