Category: US Cars Forum

Hello, with my 79er Camaro I would like to change (let) the windshield (with disc antenna) this year. I would like to see how the antenna cable is actually attached to the disc. At the front I can see that the cable is somehow attached to a contact point. Is this soldered on the disc, or is this a kind of contact area where the new disc is simply put on? As I understood (information from the US parts dealer) is at the new sc And then I read the carglass changing windows with OIdtimer. Has anyone ever had that done there? Can they do that? I thought that because they also offer the disc exchange at a home would be an alternative.

Moin together, on the weekend I got a tachometer. Now I wanted to clamp the HEI distributor (MSD replica). Occupancy etc is clear. But is that normal that on the Green cable is always juice on it? So ignition on – Full Pover 11,75 V. Electricity would not have to come after the engine runs. Who knows here advice? Greeting Achim

Hello everyone; I hope someone can help me with my problem with the TÜV! Bzw. I got a Shelby GT-500 Bj 2007 with Originale SVT alufelgen VA 19 the problem is that the Tüv, without a valid ABE or at least a data sheet of the rims, does not want to/can enter the new tires for me and proposes me to make a single purchase for 800€-1,200€ again. Where I would get almost a new set of tires for it… Since the rims are from SVT and you can buy them also by Ford, should somehow be possible to get the technical data, where on it stands with which tires can be driven and thus my new tires a The Ford dealer at my place around the corner told me that US-Ford vehicles had no idea and could not order spare parts either. So I’m here now! Thank you very much!

Moin Together, I’m new here and unfortunately I didn’t find anything suitable for the fast one. If it’s present please just point out. My problem is that I want to have my track set next Saturday. Drive a 73 Ford Ranchero 500. Have all the data from an original repair manual, however, there is nothing to do with it. Are applicable e.g. 3/4N to 2 3/4P. Can help with someone like me now change these values, so that our machines can do something with it. are degree minutes in this country. Fast help would be great. Thanks in advance! Greetings

Hi I wanted to know what the dinger need so much sprit e.g. the 5.9l motor for de dodge dakota!!!

Hello together. Actually I wanted to buy a US classic car, but after test drive and ample consideration I came to the decision, that a young car is probably the better decision, because I just missed the acceleration with the V8 oldies. Now I got a little into the Corvette C5 and already know the vehicle a little, because a friend drives a C5 and this has really impressive driving performance. Now to my questions : I have f The C5 is almost always more expensive than the C6. What is the reason for this ? I personally like the C5 also much better optically, because the folding headlights simply look sporty. Are there other reasons why the C5 is mostly more expensive ? And which engine would you recommend ? LS1 or the LS6 ? Is there anything you should consider when buying a C5 ? All models, which I currently have in mind, have a mileage of 40,000-80.000 KM and have been They look as if they were just running off the line. Nevertheless, there are certainly things to watch out for? Look forward to your feedback. Greetings from Switzerland Andreas

A wonderful day I wish everyone with the Ami fever, I am currently looking for the best combination of braking performance, little brake dust and durability for the brakes of my Camaro Z28 from 2001. At the moment I have the Turbo Groove discs of EBC and the Hawk Performance Ceramics coverings in mind. However, since I have heard more or less contradictory statements about ceramic coverings with perforated and slit brake discs, I wanted to turn to the crowd, I’ve seen on Rockauto that PowerStop sells a brake kit that sells punched and slit brake discs and ceramic brake pads together. Apparently it’s no problem with them. I actually want an upgrade which gives me a little more braking performance. I don’t know if they have any experience with it. I’m currently driving punched and slitted front and smooth back. I don’t know if they’re quite old and no numbers or text are recognizable. bt as well as durable. Yes I know punched and slotted brake discs are more aggressive to the surface and carry them out faster, which also creates more brake dust. If I take smooth discs for the best braking performance or I will also be happy with the EBC discs and ceramic coverings. I would be very pleased about your experience if you have any and what your opinions are about it. Greetings Lion

Hello, I have a Cadillac Escalade from 2017. But the cooling water systems are similar everywhere. I have to catch up first. I changed the hydro plunger left bench with me. ( Lifter tick ) Therefore I had to drain the cooling water. So everything was assembled again and filled up water. As far as so good. Now I have to push myself slowly. Engine on, heating at the rear and front on HI and lid to get the air bubbles out of the system. Engine will sink warm level and I tilt After that he then demanded nothing more ceiling on it and well. Then when cooling it sank again by 3-4cm. So I have refilled to “Filling level with cold water”. First test drive: Pointer goes after 7km quite fast on 1/2. Then falls after 1km again to 1/4 then to 0 then it goes again on 1/2 etc. Then I thought OK he opens up the individual cooling circuits and swings because of that (with Audi and co the software remains simply regulated in the middle) od he still made air in the system?! So again this venter play with lid off etc.. First question: I then when he was warm once gave a small V8 gas shock and then shot me a Fontaine cooling water out of the container. May this be right ? I then filled up everything again. On several trips I then found that under the car were always a small puddle after the parking. I tried it is cooling water. I could under the balancing tank Feuc I also noticed that I have 0 pressure on the system. Had I dared to take off the lid after driving and not hissed anything. I then had a pressure test done 1Bar 30min no loss. Ha? So it could be the lid. But it is only wet under the balance tank, nothing on the lid or insulation from the bonnet. Must say that under the container can also be old cooling water. How can the system keep the pressure with a test but after a ride there is no pressure on it? Are there printless systems? What can I check? Unfortunately, always have to wait 2 weeks to order something from the USA. Cheap shipping is also not. Thanks already and sorry for the long text.

Hello all, I have a 95 Cadillac Eldorado. Recently he started to jump back and forth between gears 3 and 4 all the time, as if he didn’t know which gear he should turn into. If I switch manually to the third gear, the problem is gone. The problem is not always there right away, sometimes it only comes after 10-15 km, so if the car really comes to temperature. Can someone help me there? Greeting from Cologne

Servus once again… After spending some time searching through the forum and not finding a satisfactory answer, a question about the frequently addressed glow candles: I have a Chevrolet K30 6,2l ex-army with original pre-glow system and would NOT like to convert it to manually!…. This one, the colder it became, was always shclechter start, until he did not want at all. (With start pilot still in case of emergency) It is certainly due to the glow candles. .. So I checked this time and found out the following: I have on all supply lines to the candles 6V when glowing. The voltage is switched on during pre-glowing always kuez, falls off and comes back again. One hears the realais again and again click. I don’t know if this is normal, at least the shocks are charged and that with 6V. Shouldn’t that be 12V over a certain period of time? Now I got new candles here at a dealer: – according to my vehicle verka If he took me from ACDelco 8#60G candles. Since my “specialist screwdriver” has his workshop on his way home, I stopped there to borrow a long, suitable nut to pull the candles. He then immediately said that these are the wrong candles. They are for the civilian version and not for mine. They would break directly again. That would be seen at the too wide plug connector…… So, now my question: –> Which candles do I really need and what can I do with this? Thank you….. Oh, I’m creating a page on which I document my stuff here for myself and posterity. I’ve already installed a banner from the forum. Below is the link…