Category: US Cars Forum

The car what it’s about is a Chrysler Dodge Ram V8 with 5,XX L and a Van So now have the part that I mean expanded, and look there are transistors and resistors in it and then everything is welded in such a funny mass. At the front there are two plugs, and a hole which is fed with a cleverly from the front with fresh air ( exactly where the hole is the transistor, suppose the hole is to cool, because of the fresh air) So now again my question: W ofür ist das ding??? http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/2456/11010620587xy.jpghttp://img72.imageshack.us/img72/4579/11010620592vx.jpg it sits here http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/7770/02010619538gb.jpg And here’s another question. The car runs in the stand free of charge. it picks up gas and responds to every gas-giving. When I drive and give half-gas, it still drives as if I always give gas and take it away again. when I then give full gas, he thinks about what he should do and then leaves. I already have the second carburettor on it and that’s the same thing. If I inject brake cleaner or petrol into the air filter it runs free of charge. if I keep the air valve (stater valve) half closed also. it’s a Holly carburettor 2 times. can unfortunately not take another because I have a gas system in it and the connection only to this paste. I have already removed the petrol pump and another pure, nothing different. Filter on the petrol pump is also a new one in it. Also all underpressure hoses agreed and nothing. Distributors Finger and cap are also new. It is a “Hall” encoder in the distributor cap. So can not lie at the ignition?! But will look today with a flash lamp how the ignition behaves with load. Does one know or has one already had this problem?

Hello the door seal rubbers at lincoln are pretty much in the A…. see photos: http://www.groovious.de/linc7/Dichtungen.htm Now I’m looking for a cheap alternative to buying new ones, as this would cost me about 1200 dollars. offer I had got from americana for all new door seals on 4 doors. I found this product at ebay americana:http://cgi.ebay.com/…/eBayISAPI.dll?… is this a kind of door seal rubber from the tube with which I can repair cracks? or l any glue to attach seals??? as far as I can see, the seals are all attached to my lincoln with metal rails and screws. does anyone know an alternative?? standard seals are eliminated due to the complex construction of the seals, I think… are there perhaps dealers who offer seals cheaper than for 1200 dollars??? Thanks and greetings, Stefan

Hello, I have found some interesting articles at ebay-motors. however, some of these dealers sell only within America. I am now looking for people from America who make these purchases for me and then send the articles to Germany. Of course against advance payment and expense compensation. Thank you… greenetz, g.

Hi guys, heavy heart I have to sell my Buick now. But it’s not about this fact, but rather about that no pig enters for the car. The car can now be found for more than 2 days in Ricardo.ch from 0 Sfr… So far exactly 6 bids have arrived to a total of 52 Sfr.. To explain: My car is from MFK (TÜV), from service, is in good condition, has 215000 km and runs great. The auction can be found under ricardo.ch and the No. 406163084. Do I don’t understand the world anymore. What’s wrong with the car market???? There are some freshly tested Peugeot 205 GTI in it for 200 Sfr. and no one offers! The cars don’t intrude anyone! On the other hand, old rotten Opel Corsas are sold for 1000 Sfr. and more.. without MFK.. What do we do wrong??? I ask for your opinion..

……somehow I need your help. I have been offered an Olsdmobile Cutlass, year 1994. The Olds has a 3.1L machine installed. The one has EURO 1. Is there perhaps a way to get such a vehicle somehow to EURO 2? He has, although he was already on German roads, “only” an American letter …..so no German. Then the last inspection was according to maintenance booklet in 2008. Is there something like that???? …… I thought that i The car drives, but when braking, the electronics start spinning around, the gears change and the engine goes off. What can be such a thing? I would be very happy about helping people of this forum. Thank you very much!

Hello to all fans bubbling V8! We are three students who want to find out in the context of a project at the TU Munich/Chair of Entrepreneurship:Who are the typical US car buyers? Do you all have a similar age or other similarities? What makes your scene? Do you drive a “original” or a “new” (i.e. a new car from year 2000)? Why do you drive a US car? Our goal would be to describe the typical customer. Especially if you bought yours as a new car: How do you inform yourself before buying (e.g. magazines, friends)? Is it just about the brand or rather the technology? How do you get your vehicles (e.g. dealers, self-import)? What do you pay attention to with your importer/dealer (e.g. warranty, spare parts supply)? Maybe someone has stumbled on numerical material, what are the most popular US cars in Germany, how many are on the roads / were registered etc.? (That would help us everything, since numbers are hard to find here sin d) We are happy about every answer, you help us very much!

Hello guys, I want to introduce myself briefly. I come from Dortmund and am now proud owner of a 1969 Chevrolet Impala Conventible. I have to admit that I’m not just technically gifted screwdriver. I bought the car from a dealer and he has fresh TÜV and an H approval. Now to my question, I have a few things on the car that I would like to eliminate, such as a crack in the top, some small rust spots, bursted varnish, in the big and whole search After a good workshop in the Dortmund area, which is familiar with such cars, I check it out once, which your work is fixed, without wanting to have a fortune for it. I would like to thank you for your answers. Greetings from Dortmund Eko

Hello people today in philosophy we have started with a new topic which is hotst “how are we mobile in 40 years? “.As HA we should now ask different people what they think we will be on the road in 40 years.That’s why I could just ask the question here in Motor-talk.Our interviews should be presented in the form of a lecture in the hours on Friday.The hotst of your opinions will then be incorporated into the paper. r. e.g. the Tehse represents that if it really should work with the KERNFUSION a new age of energy winning could break in ! He explained to us that one could get as much energy from a liter of sea water as with 300 liters of oil. Quote: “This would be the greatest human dream fulfilled” What do you think ? I would reply very happy greetings from NRW

Hello everybody, I’m new here and now looking for info, my Google search was unfortunately not very successful because as always a lot of things completely contradict each other. We, my husband and I, would like to have a US-Car Muscle Car. Only now is the question, is there ever a suitable classic car or is this just a dream? Because otherwise we have to use the 300c again However, my better half also likes with a Volvo Amazone, if the Car half-way suitable for everyday use ? Unfortunately I am still a bit unsuspecting about. LG Tasha

Since I intend to restore my astro from the ground up, this question arises for me. Yes, I hear it again, such a bowl is not worth the effort….. It’s just a matter of opinion, and as a Daily Driver I found nothing better for two adults and three dogs (and we are talking about the appropriate size here). Furthermore, almost ten years have already welded us together. Back to the topic: so galvanizing yes or no. Even in Oldtimerkreisen one is not there g. The frame and all more massive parts such as transverse handlebars, axle parts and holders should be treated. Pro with melting bath galvanizing, each angle is reached and one finds relatively easily someone who does it. Contra, pickling baths may eat further around the frame even after galvanizing, possible delay, and possibly trouble with the TÜV. Pro with injection galvanizing, no delay, contra, cavities are badly achieved, TÜV anger. Or rather just let shine and hempadur zinc on it, followed by eating epoxy primer and a chassis varnish? And which chassis varnish take? Questions about questions. Who has had experience and can help?