Category: US Cars Forum

Servus @ all The work has managed, my toy is dry in a heated hall and I have already removed the interior of the cabin…. The plan: Demonstrate everything except for frame and drive, radiate sheet metal parts and then paint in robust matte black. Frame and paintable drive parts by hand with tape paper and co. and then bring brush and roll into a durable condition. ……. Here I am, at the roll bar. Since I have found the most diverse statements in the net, a question to those who have a clue! What I think now!: The overroar is considered a fixed load as long as it does not change the external dimensions of the vehicle to the side. To the top it may not look ???? beyond the cabin! I want to bend in the company two 80s pipes in the form of the cab and one after the other with a Flat iron should be screwed as a foot to the loading surface edge. To the rear, a foot made of 80 tubes should serve as a slanting support on each side and also be screwed to the top of the loading surface edge. Here, the recording holes held in the loading surface wall should be used (don’t know what they actually are for). On the supports, a kind of handrail should run from 80 tubes up to the rear holes. On the top of the handle, 4 headlights, of course seperately switched. because from your experience something against it and is the whole really admission / registration free? Add a rough picture of the planned handle! Thank you!

Hello everyone, I hope I’m right here. My name is Peter and I’ve had a GMC pick-up for about 15 years with the 6.2 diesel Bj.84. 8years ago I retrofitted a bench turbocharger, otherwise the engine is still original. Has never let me down since, except cover parts such as starter light mesh and water pump. Last year I had a defective head seal and then changed both. With heads plan valves and some new pre-burning chambers. The car ran like a clockwork again. I just registered because I have the following problem. Since a holiday in Denmark the engine is no longer running round, makes the impression as if only seven pöttes run. When I give gas it is not so audible anymore. When driving you notice a little the power loss and at lower speeds the whole engine “shakes” itself. In the cold condition also a dull knock can be heard. In a Wekstatt they meant crankshaft bearings defective. But from now on geich??? And the diesel always sounds a little “rapid”. Oil pressure is full there, engine starts well and also takes good gas. I haven’t driven since. (In winter I don’t drive, so the car was standing for quite a long time.) Does anyone have an idea? Greeting Peter

Hello together, The topic is not new, but the info in the threads I found are either too old or were treated only marginally. I would like to buy a US van from the 90s/beginning 2000s. Here come GMC Savana/Chevrolet Express (from 1996), Dodge Ram Van (from 1994 or even 1998) or Ford Econoline (from 1994) into question. I was first very focused on the Dodge. The frame construction (uniframe) and especially the rust problem have me alldi The Ford Econoline seems to be the “robust” of many of the three vans, but is rarely found in good condition and the spare parts supply does not seem to be as good as with the others. Stays GMC Savana/Chevrolet Express (unless I have a fancy Ford running over the way). Also with GMC Savana/Chevrolet Express there is the rust theme, but obviously not as bad as with the Dodge – but maybe this is only due to the al Lg. better condition of the offered models. What about the “Canada model”, which is galvanized and therefore rust-resistant? Does this also apply to the German versions with kmh-tacho or even the imports from Japan (also kmh Tacho)? Then I stumbled again and again over the fact that it is recommended to retrofit a cooling for the transmissions when driving a lot of highways. What is it here? How fast should you drive maximum without such retrofitting?

Hi, finally I let all the other construction sites and projects be and made me to the gearbox installation. So first the pilot bearing cooled down and then hit with a suitable nut. Then the clutch with pressure plate installed, the clutch bell unscrewed and the back bearing used. For the centering of the clutch disc was extra a splint, which I of course also used. What I failed, the transmission through the clutch disc into the Pilotla My problem is, the car is standing in the garage on its wheels and I’m lying under it. So I pushed the gearbox on my shunting car lifter into position and then pushed the last way by hand into its final position – or failed exactly there. Is there a trick in how to thread the gearbox? Btw. I had read in Tool Forum from the ks tool power joints and since when I was removed with the standard joint of the ratchet box at the a I hit the frame slipping (the finger still flings), I bought the times – good decision! If this is too much advertising, the part simply deletes. Greetings Chris

Hey Hello, I really don’t have so much experience with cars yet and I hope someone can help me further. I had a problem with my G20 Chevy Van (Bj89) The windshield had jumped through a rockfall, I figured it all out! off to ATU. Today at 9 am. The Chevy made no problems so far… well ATU installs the new windshield and see there.. it breaks at the installation Hurra (well wonderful ATU worried about DI a new one) I just thought away from here, I want to leave…. The van doesn’t start any more. Ignition goes, engine makes noises as if he wants to start but it seems as if he doesn’t get fuel. Supposedly, however, fuel arrives (according to ATU) spark plug also brings sparks and battery also has juice. Did you cut in some Auto Pilot spray (fuel from the can ?) and he wanted to bubber easily. Had probably not passed then. Spray something in front into the engine, he gets his magnificent v8 sound and bubbert what the product …wums and the thing starts to catch fire. I think there were a few very big ones caught ahja had just filled 80l (I am 100% sure real fuel). Does anyone have a solution? Do I have to pay the full amount if there is something broken? because when I put it off everything went without problems. Thanks already for the help and you a nice WE

Hey, I want to build up a new catalyst, because the old one has just been waved through the last AU, and now a leak has arisen between the cat and the exhaust pipe. To do this, I need one of the two catalysts, according to the Rockauto as well as Walker Exhausts:Walker 15735 EPA CompliantWalker 81174 C.A.R.B. Compliant Which cat should I buy now? According to stickers in the bonnet, the vehicle is Federal Emissions Compliant. with the EPA Kat at the AU will fall on the muzzle. On the website of Walker only the C.A.R.B. Kat is spoken of “the right mixture” of metals. That makes me a bit stubborn. Does any of you have experience? And do I need more small parts, such as seals, or really only this flange? Thanks in advance and LG, Denis

Hello, think about buying a th700 today, but I don’t know if it’s so easy to get into my 84’s Chevy pickup. can you maybe answer a few questions? is this electronically or underpressure controlled, if electronic, do I have to convert a lot? is it as long as the 350’s because of cardan shaft? how does it work with the overdrive or 4th gear.

Hello together, I had to introduce a Ford Mustang Bj. 1966 from USA, I spoke today with the seller and he told me the following. It was a mustang V6 and about 18 years ago a new V8 engine came in, this would not be registered, has no engine nr. and that would be so common in USA, but will have no problems in Germany with it. Is this true, will not buy the thing and dananch I am not allowed here. Thank you for your answers.

Since a few days my Alero spins at the cold start. It starts immediately when starting, but then the engine doesn’t run on all cylinders. The whole thing goes like this for about a minute, then it hits itself again and everything is ok. Unfortunately I notice that in the balance tank again small oil traces appear and I assume that the seals of the intake manifold are over again, that was at about 65,000 km already once. I had then “heavy-duty” metal seals from the USA built in and believed me on the safe side. That was five years ago. Will once again order me a sealing set in the USA, maybe the seals have become a little better.

Somehow I have a difficult to localize problem with my “small”. Noise, grim kind with vibrations up to the bottom plate of the driver from approx. 75 kmh to 120 kmh. Easy play in the wheel bearing left, not reusable since complete wheel stroke. In curves (BAB up and downs) the noise occurs only in left turns, so when the left wheel is relieved. When starting with fully beaten wheels, 4WD off, even at the left side long. With 4WD there is a very clear K Nack, but also only left long. Bumped up, relieved and turned by hand the front wheels can not provoke the noise. Tires on the left side of the inner shoulder have run out a bit more than normal. And now? Wheel bearing, receptive wheel stroke or drive shaft??