Category: US Cars Forum

Hello Partypeople, I have a question. I have removed almost everything from the inside of my ́56 Lincoln. Now I am getting rid of the sand that has accumulated everywhere. I also wanted to make cable new… The real problem is: I have very light rust spots on the two doors. Not eaten through, but the paint has just discolored. I hope you can see what I mean in the photo. These “places” come from, among other things, that the rainwater on the Schei b) Then I wanted to remove these rust spots with fine lubricating gel paper and then paint them with some rust protection, as well as clean up the drain holes. My question(s): Has someone ever done this with the seals and has a tip? -What kind of paint should I take? Thank you very much in the first place. u. Lennart

Moin moin, I installed AC Delco Brem disks last summer, as the old brakes fluttered while braking. Now I have the same problem after 10,000 km and have set EBC disks installed. But also these run not 100% round but rub easily. Could there be other vulnerabilities for this problem? If I have to brake sharply now from 150 km/h, I also feel a vibrating in the brake pedal. Maybe I’m too pedantic, but somehow it’s annoying after all. Greetings Frank

Hello. My Buick currently has a slight tyre problem which also confirmed to me a friendly mechanic with his force machine, i.e.: New tires have to run soon. 205 / 70 R14 Now I am faced with the choice between white wall tires Maxxis MA-1 and no white wall tires from Falken / Semperit etc. What would you choose ? Cheap white wall tires vs higher quality normal tires ? To the Maxxis it is said that about this is judged quite mixed in the individual reviews. Z around driving profile I have to say that the Buick is relatively rarely moved, because as a everyday prostitute I prefer to rape the Audi. Mfg HEMI

The injection parts are not so my thing….I’m too old for. But now the question is to install a 305 with TPI, namely into a suburban. Is from the bay, was offered as 5.7 but what to do, the part is now there. Only I personally could never suffer the 5.0. Since I don’t know with the TPI and the possibility ask some questions (I know that the injectors and the knock sensor are different) 1: Just a 5.7L Unterbau we take d certainly doesn’t fit because of the computer, right? 2: A set of aluminum heads and a different cam float in front of me, but does the computer handle that or does the part have to be knitted over? 3: In this context, perhaps the part that is running with liquid gas injection when everything is finished is important. What does the computer say about it? Does my concern about the computer not apply, since it is usually out anyway?

Hi I get my pony in 3 weeks but am already busy looking at the parts together. Since I am a beginner here again such a question. Which exhaust system should it be? It is supposed to produce a good to very good sound. Here is the selection a Flowmaster 2.25 inches with 40-er pots, or Flowmaster 2.5 inch 50-er pots. MagnaFlow 15817 stainless steel 3 inches is supposed to bring more performance. MagnaFlow 15815. Does someone drive such a how are you satisfied? Thanks It is about a Mustang 66 Coupe 302 cui 4V .

Hi, I once again =) I mentioned a short time ago but I prefer to start a new topic, because it has nothing to do with the other. I changed the oil yesterday and was on the pit. I apparently have oil and cooling water loss where exactly it comes from I don’t know. It’s every case when I stand in front of the car with a view on the engine, on the right about from the middle height everything watered… in the front Berreich as far as I could see it cooling water, in the rear Berreich I find cooling water he and oil… To mention it again: I had to fill cooled water after 10000km about because it was almost empty. Oil I have to refill at the moment about every 1000km+- 1 liter. I once made a lot of pictures. help one or the other further I have now made everything as far as it went clean to vllt. then to be able to see better where it comes out…

Hello you love! I’m new here and have already a question. Hope very much someone can help me! My dream car has always been the Chevrolet Camaro. The one from the year 73 around. With the round taillights. Now I found one at mobile.de! This one stands however in Hungary. (near Budapest) 60.000 km on the clock 275 HP (according to seller 276Ps ??) Now I had also written a few e-mails with the seller and it looks very cooperative and friendly. According to him, there are all the papers for the vehicle.Motor runs 1A. He thinks he would let me bring the car to Frankfurt for 350 €. However, I have my concerns there and would like to see the car before. Whichever the seller agrees with. I have no idea at all how to do it best should I like the car! The car should cost 9.999,00 € and I don’t want to drag it there in any case. I just want to pay if the aut o stands in Frankfurt. There is this trust. However, I do not necessarily read good things about it. I can not imagine that he sends me the car to Germany without seeing a penny. Does anyone have an idea??? here still the link to the offer:http://suchen.mobile.de/…/192681697.html?… many thanks already in advance!!!

Moin Moin love Oldie community I’m new to the US-Car Forum and need your advice And while I want to finally realize my dream of my own V8-Ami and have now decided for a Pontiac Bonneville Bhj. 1963 after a long search for a Pontiac Bonneville Bhj.. the car is not bought yet, I was not yet to the test drive or visit because the good about 800 km of me stands in Hildesheim. to the facts It is a 1963 Pontiac Boneville 2Door about 120,000 miles run. V8 389 cui with 303 HP eachfa. lls I read in the report that TÜV Nord indicated oil loss on the engine and slight oil loss on the transmission. According to the seller, the transmission is now sealed but the engine oiled still light. should I now rather leave my fingers off the good piece or is this acceptable with a 50-year-old V8??

Moin dear forum, filled up motor oil yesterday for the first time at my caddy. The stand at the track bar was at “min”… Can anyone tell me how much I need to add to the brand at “max”? Filled in 0.5 liters, but the brand hasn’t changed much. I hate to overfill it… Thank you & beautiful sunny Friday! TorBenz

Hello guys, I signed up here once in the forum, because I am slowly despairing! I recently bought a Chevrolet Van G20, Bj.88, 5.0 TBI. It is a Smits gas system installed and So.KFZ Wohmobil registered. And also the key number 88 (means: emission class unknown). Conclusion: priceless! I read somewhere that there was an expert report from GM with which you get Euro 1 and with subsequent installation of a cold running regulator Euro 2. Unfortunately the gentleman told me at GM It seems that it is not possible to change the key number with a camper registration, so I asked the TÜV if I can simply have the car registered as a car and if I would then also get Euro 1 (GKat he already has in it). The answer was yes, but only without a gas system! And if I had the gas system extended and carried out, I would lose the Euro 1 status if I would install it again afterwards. rde. The same applies even if I would install a cold running regulator immediately, exhaust gas standard would be invalid with gas system. Does anyone know if there is an expert report for this vehicle and with this gas system? I would still have the possibility to have an exhaust gas determination on the test bench. Unfortunately, the fun costs 1600 Euro and lasts 2 days. The nice Mr. TÜV man could not make a forecast for the outcome! That is, in case of doubt the coal is thrown out to the window. As a truck I want the Don’t let anything happen because I want a van and no empty box with only 2 seats. Before I would probably have to sell it I’m grateful for any advice! Contact addresses to people who know people who can do something again are also welcome. I’m really going crazy soon! Thanks Germany Thanks already before Tobi