MOTOR-TALK

Category: US Cars Forum

  • satisfied with opel?

    so, since I have read a lot here, I have already thought about whether I should step back from the purchase of my vectras. here there are problems that I never had with my bmw or mercedes (not even in the worst presentations). well, I thought the dilemma with your ascona c 1992 was certainly only a coincidence, and opel certainly improved everything at the vectra of juli 1998 and became more solid… but you read here almost only of annoyances! there are also opel people here, who are simply quite satisfied. write something positive about opel (spec. vectra) so that I can sleep quietly again 😉

  • Diplomat retrofitting electric window lifter

    I am in the process of retrofitting my 77 Diplomat (Diploral) 2.8E with electric window lifters. I have the original window lifters plus the cable set available. I did this work already in 1984. At that time however with the advantage that the donor vehicle showed me the exact procedure. I will replace the still missing switches first with switches from another vehicle. Unfortunately, no holes were drilled in vehicles with crank drives. the body, so that I had to re-drill it. With 8 holes not always easy, because actually the doors have to be unscrewed, in order to pierce the holms of the A and B pillars correctly. The cable set is from the younger models with switch set in the center console. I have created a specially made schematic as well as detailed conversion instructions. Who has done this already, can gladly speak. An exchange of experience is f For everyone’s help.

  • Unsatisfactory hot start behaviour

    Hello dear Opel friends, I am proud owner of a record E(2) 1.8 i (with GKAT) but unfortunately at the moment less pride in his miserable jump-in. The cold start is not a problem at all, three starter turns and it runs clean and smooth. The hot start short (1s-5min.) after turning off is also unproblematic. It gets tricky if the good one stood about 30 min. Then it is only with a familiar sequence of starter spins, give gas, take gas away and de This is quite embarrassing and attracts a lot of compassionate glances. Also, after this complicated start procedure, he likes to go out again after 100m, and always when you give gas and then take it away again. In addition, he vibrates strongly in the stand. I have tested the ignition system (new candles, new cables, new cap). Injection side I checked the throttle valve switch, which also works. Air filter is fine, Kü Hlwassertemperaturgeber gives correct values. Anyone a ignite idea? Thanks to the scrap metal fanatics

  • Opel Rekord D 1700 S / Solex 32/32 didta carburetor

    Good day to everyone. I come from Pforzheim and have been driving my beloved Opel record D 1700 S, bj 1972 for about 7 years. He was always a loyal fermented one, but at the moment he only touches very stubbornly from the spot. Maybe someone has had a similar problem here and can help me. So start with: My engine has been having problems for a long time. Does not accept gas, goes out constantly and runs quite difficult. In the upper speed range lä When expanding the carburettor (solex didta 32/32) there was a nozzle in the float chamber and a little bit of about 2 mm diameter? I assume that this is the ball valve??? Does anyone know if the ball has to be placed under the valve in the lateral shaft in the float housing? I am of course happy about every info as a newcomer. I try to attach 2 pictures. Nice greetings to everyone, Steffen.

  • Kadett D Diesel winter problem

    Hello, I have a Kadett D Caravan Diesel, which runs perfectly in summer, but has massive problems in winter to start. Due to the mileage of almost 450,000km I assume that a poor compression is the cause here. Now I have thought to warm up the sucked air with the preliminary glow (approx. 80W, parallel to the glow plugs, self-construction from soldered weed plate with heating spirals from an old hair dryer as purpose in front of the air filter). Greetings, Oliver.

  • W123 – Avoid carburetor engines?

    Hello Mercedes municipality, for a few years I already look for a W123. From the thought of a fine weather car my attention has changed now to a Daily Driver. I would drive with the vehicle every day about 50 KM, in every season and weather, country road. I do not need much luxury, the base must be right, even a 200 D would be ok for me because it is a pure pendulum vehicle. But now the decisive point: carburetor vs. injector. I always wanted only injector I had favored a 230 E. Unfortunately, the market is still very empty as far as the 230er is concerned, which is why I look more and more often after 200er (109 HP version). I have learned from an acquaintance, however, that the carburettor engines are an ever greater problem because in many workshops there are no staff anymore that knows how to deal with them and gets the right settings. In my case, this would be impossible in principle, but what does it look like in a very hot or very cold climate, can the carburetor have that? Are injectors basically more reliable? Would you have a motor suggestion for me that is suitable for these challenges apart from this question? My criteria: _Limousine (no T/C) _1980–1985 _Schied roof _ZV _Servo _no velour _if possible still under 200 TKM (no need if condition is good) _Color: preferably silver/dunk elblau _Price: as long as the condition is good for now no price restriction

  • Steering gear shift out, only 3rd and 4th gear available! Cooler water loss if engine was

    Hello together! I’ve been my first classic car for over 3 weeks now. I’m very satisfied and a good oldtimer opinion has also come to pass. Last week the steering wheel shift has become loose during the ride, the position of the gears has shifted. Only 3rd and 4th gear is to be found. Have gears removed, checked, greased and reinstalled, but no success. Does anyone have experience and tips for me? What did not happen during the test drive, although s After the registration I did my first, slightly longer tour to Venlo (Holland). During the trip there was a hissing from time to time in the cockpit, in the area of the car radio to hear. Noticed that in the heating area cooler water runs down and lands on the exhaust. After 200 kilometers approx. 3.5 liters water loss. Fortunately everything went well! How can I get to the cause and where do I have to unscrew ??? Thank you in advance ! Sincerely Cetin

  • Questions about Questions W123 240D Ambulance

    Hallihallo, Bin since yesterday proud owner of a w123 240D ambulance (Binz build up) built in 1985 now a few questions that you can hopefully answer to me. 1. Is it normal that you can only feel two switching operations with the automatic transmission? Have heard different opinions and read that the car drives on D in the second gear… 2.When I turn the key, the engine stays on. Only when I lock the steering wheel lock, it goes out… has what with the ignition lock to do ? 3. Do I have the opportunity to get a good 300 diesel engine cheaply, is the conversion in terms of performance worth? Am myself a car mechatronics engineer, working hours I would not have to pay… 4. If I operate the warning flashing system, both arrows in the instrument cluster light permanently… could the aic h just be the switch ? That would be it first, am definitely curious Dear greetings from Berlin, Joe

  • the last of the “Three likes”, the white 250 CE, year 1970 Serie 1

    The two 280 CEs are now sold, one to Munich and the other to Hamburg. Now I only have the white one. Unfortunately nobody wanted to have it, even for small money, so for 5,000,– Euronen. Now I also know why. He looks very bad on the underbody and the inside skirt. Everything is rusted off, but we have already done other things, with the installation of a completely new floor group. The rest of vo m Car, i.e. engine and trunk are really ok, everything is stable without rust. Only this left front side from the front wall to the seat box, there must have been water in, that looks so bad. The sliding roof is also completely sealed with silicone. Was that the evil or rather the disc frame??? Anyway, it is made because it is a very great car. Color glass, 4 ELF, stereo system with three LS, overhead regulator, external countersturbation indicator, baroque rims 6×14, steel rims for r M&S, SD. I drove him home on the road three years ago. And another candy, he already has H approval!! So now some pictures of the rustling leaf, but please don’t scare, it’s just old iron. And what I’m going to weld in first.

  • w110 , ’66, clutch transducer cylinder

    Hello all, I was helped here recently, therefore another question. After coupling and gear change on my small diesel fin a question arises to me: Does a spring belong between the driver cylinder and the pull-out lever ? Hook holes are there on both sides, a spring is also available and would fit. Thus the reset power of the clutch would be increased. However, this spring pulls back the take-over piston even when not operated and pushes the oil high into the container. Doppeln is then far too much play and the clutch does not open. Without the spring it works (was also before the change so) What did I probably overlook or not understand? Thanks for helpful clarification. mfg Ploetsch10 PS: Can a connection with a licking donor cylinder exist?