Category: US Cars Forum

Hello, I’m new here in the forum, my name is Jan, I’m a 21-year-old device electronics technician and I’m from BaWü. So I’m asking for consideration if I’m asking a few “dumb” beginner questions here. I want to fulfill a dream in 2015/16, a real American ponycar in the form of a Camaros from the 60s, I’m already putting money aside to buy me a reasonable base. I’m aware that these cars are also popular in the USA and therefore relatively high trading who I have already read various threads on the topic of restoration, which helped me from the user “Spechti” about his Mustang Mach 1. (but I’m not quite through yet!) As I mentioned above, however, I rather came from the field of electronics with support from a car mechanic master as well as a car mechatronics engineer. I also have a (dry) Garage free in which the car would stand, time pressure is not available because I drive a different car for everyday life. Do you hold it for realistic a Camaro SS396 unrestored and unbasted for 20k€ in good condition (so no stress with rust etc) to get to the front door to BaWü? Is this a too big project for a beginner with help? I would especially be interested in what you would pay attention to before buying, I assume that I have to import a car and it d Which places are critical for the car, at which details do I recognize a good base? Which parts besides the body are affected by the rust in the models? Hidden surprises? Thanks already! Greetings, Jan

Good morning, I shot a thing yesterday that I don’t know what I rode. I liked a mustang fastback from California at ebay and I offered “for fun” a sum that seems relatively small to me….and no one offered it anymore….)-: Now I would have a newly restored car which I really can’t use but looks great. Do you see the market situation here again good for sale? It has to be imported with everything around it and dra See here: http://s36.photobucket.com/…/10484936_84_zps72ba2997.jpg.html… Key data: This is my original ’65 Mustang Fastback, all numbers matching. It’s been a California car all its life, currently located in Pleasanton, California. As I celebrated in the title, the Mustang has received a professional restoration, completed last year. The paint is in excellent condition, the very nice Shelby stripe kit making the Mustang a real head gym. The interior is also in very good shape, and e everything is working as it should!! Here are some highlights of the car: original 289 V8 engine original 4 Speed transmission power Steering two tone white/blue Interior body paint is very nice custom stereo and speakers new titres, etc. 15,000€ was the price. What do you think?

Hello, to my Belli, the brake pedal doesn’t come back when the engine is running? what can that be? are installed BKV and a 2 circuit brake system, brake force regulator block, discs front, I noticed only when I turned off the car and when I came back the brake lights were on, brake levers withdrawn by hand and then tried out, everything Roger, drove further and afterwards in the garage it was again! if I kick it so few times no problem, only occurs when the engine runs t, can it be due to the vacuum? Low pressure hose goes from the Bkv over to the suction spider where it is connected to the carburettor with one t piece! Maik

Hello with the idea to get me a Ford F350 or F450 knows someone like the experiences with gearbox and engine? What exactly is the difference between F350 and F450? How exactly is the driving behaviour comparable to G class Would you like to get me a new or annual car from America in any case the new Facelift with the 6.4L PowerStroke V8 Turbo Diesel. There are also different translations and wheelbases or? Currently with the Dollar course it offers I’m not so happy with that one anymore. Here’s a picture like I imagine it Maybe someone knows what. Thanks in advance. mfg blendy

Hello guys, as already shown in the title I am just on and about to have my new ’92 Firebird V6 taken off in Austria. The vehicle was registered in 1991 (according to KBA) as a factory-new vehicle in Germany, but has a milestacho as well as the U.S. exterior mirrors. At the acceptance the examiner has criticized that he finds nowhere a number that points to the engine type. He looked for it in the engine compartment and on the doors, and found nothing. To be honest, I don’t know. That’s right, what I should think of it. The evaluation was negative, of course, because he now has no proof that this is really the 3.1 litre V6. Furthermore, he wants me to retrofit a light horn (via the fog lights) – but I don’t have to retrofit the fog lamp. And he wants a type plate. A friend of mine also has a ’92 Firebird, so I could take a photo of the type plate to get a etching. What the light is about. The car never had that, and the Firebird from my colleague didn’t. He never complained about it. And the main reason why I’m posting this: How can I have him confirm that there’s the 3.1 V6 in it, and nothing else? ^^ I’m 100% sure there’s a 3.1r in it. He doesn’t have more power, the consumption also fits, and he does look the same as my colleague’s. I guess he’s got a strong one. In case of ignorance, however, I can only drive to this examiner. (The only one in Salzburg, and € 160,- would then be due again if I drove to another federal state for acceptance)

Dear Foristi, U.S. car lover, At the beginning of this thread I don’t even know if it will be a technical inquiry or more the attempt to silence one’s own scruples. What is it about? My Cadillac Sedan DeVille, built in 1966 cruist casually bubbling and barely audible with his 7 liter engine when I perform it in beautiful weather. That’s true Ami – pleasure…. It is equipped with a relatively simple original radio with FM and AM station keys, a retractable As the separation sharpness of the transmitters is probably not designed for the European FM transmitters and things like AFC or RDS are of course foreign, the radio is always silent and represents “only” an optical eye-catcher. Therefore, I consider whether I should upgrade my caddy “acoustically”. It would have been interesting to listen to Frank Sinatra, Glenn Miller or Elvis from ordinary loudspeakers at the next exit. d but it must have come to considerable interventions into the originality of the interior equipment. Whether this intervention is well worth the originality? Are there small, gently installed loudspeakers and / or terminal devices, which may be more or less “hidden” and who should do that? I don’t want to let any AUtoradio people get into my caddy. I’m just interested in your opinion Dear Greetings Katweazel

Servus! I had already asked here somewhere but received no answer, therefore again. I sold my 335d because of a longer stay in France and bought me a Fiesta ST. Now, surprisingly, this car proved to be absolutely awesome for my German working day (I live in the country, as a 2x15km highway a day) and now I really like the little one. Actually, after returning to Germany the Fiesta was by a g To replace Jaguar (XF/XJ) But now I have considered whether a large, cheaper station wagon might not make sense as a third car (fun)? My need: Lots of space, best 6-8 seaters. Comfortable on the long distance. Cheap fixed costs, consumption is rather secondary. Quite reliable. Should a trailer of about 2to with e.g. the Caterham be able to pull on it (I have the matching tickets). Not needed daily, but only for larger purchases or tours on Long distance. Preferred eight-cylinder, injector. I thought of a 90’s Roadmaster, Caprice, etc. Likes LT 1 What about the idea? What would a good vehicle (keim rust, interior complete, electrical works, drive train solid and tight, scratches and bumps don’t matter to me) cost? I assume to find usable in the range up to 10,000 €, for 17000 I would already find a Superb 3.6 V6? I am grateful for every input.

Hello dear U.S. Car Forum! Either no one has asked this in the form in the forum or I don’t find it. So let me share my question with you Yes, I did. I’ve put up a sled and let it just import. Since the vehicle was driven until the last time, I thought: Man, then I pick up the personally in Bremerhaven, for which I would order a transporter… . Actually I wanted to get a short-term license plate and off for it. I thought – until I the new requirements for the license plate. You now only get the license plate for vehicles that either have a valid HU or just for the transfer directly to the nearest HU test point. So without valid HU no tour across the Republic. At least legal. To pass the HU I consider hopeless, because still some changes to the vehicle are necessary. Keywords: headlights, brake & flashing lights, reflectors, possibly towing eyes, if necessary tyres What I’ve been thinking about: And now you’re asking: Is this going to work as I imagined it? Should there already be a thread on the subject, contrary to expectations, please just link it. Thank you Maik

After replacing the entire brake (saddles, discs, blocks, brake fluid) and ventilating, the bag still pulls to the left. Even worse than before. So brake hoses (uralt) cut off and “bleed”. On the right came practically nothing. A pair of droplets then a little “threat” – then nothing more. On the left came also less than I expected. What would you say – replace hoses? (are already ordered…) or could it lie on the brake force distribution valve? I didn’t want to do this one-fac h so order on suspicion, because relatively expensive (GM replacement about 177 tacken). If it was “only” the hoses, the problem would be quickly and cheaply fixed. But if not, what could it be then? Someone’s idea? PS: I don’t want to think about the main brake cylinder. 600 euros the part…….with good luck used for 300 – unchecked of course.

Hello everyone. The fuel consumption of my Pontiac Trans On the 84 V8 is beyond good and evil (22l) in the city near Grandma driving mode. I have a Holley carburetor with mechanical choke (I believe)! Choke flap I can only move by small hand slider. Position always quite openly even when engine is cold. Never moves! To start the car in cold condition I go to the accelerator once when engine and ignition are off. (often also several attempts and gas bursts). Then it starts and starts. still remains open and that never changes. Can the choke still keep running? if so how can I find out that Choke lamp never lights up. How can I disable it? Choke flap position completely open in warm engine condition correct? Engine: Chevy 6.2l 383 Stroker. gruss