Category: US Cars Forum

In the longer term, I plan to purchase a Chevrolet Suburban as a touring vehicle or fun car on long distances. I have looked at the years of construction from 95 to 99 as 4WD and petroler for the purpose of autogas retrofitting. What are the weak points in these years of construction, what should be taken into account when buying? Where can you best accommodate a car gas tank as large as possible without reducing the loading area/case space? Which importers / dealers are missing, which also What does the supply of spare parts look like? Sources of supply? Since the information about the technical data in the Indernett is rather dull or comes from the latest models, I am of course also looking for as much of it as possible. Dimensions, weights, performance, trailer loads, ect. The best question, of course, always at the end: What does the fun cost? Insurance classification? Consumption with “normal” driving mode (many highways, some highway and rather little city; Indigenous in the normal range)? Is one with approx. 15 to 16l/100km petrol or 18 to 20l/100km gas? Taxes with Euro 2? Spare parts and wear parts? That this monster is slightly more expensive than my Volvos is clear to me. Just asks the question, how much more expensive. Sorry, for this mixed of questions, but I would be very pleased about a detailed description of yours. For this soon a V8 blubbers under my ass. MfG Mirko PS: Hie mal ein Example of what I would like to see in ehwa: http://www.off-road-schoener.de/…/P5060030.jpghttp://www.off-road-schoener.de/…/P5060019.jpg

Hi guys I once again, my dolle car has failed again, it doesn’t start any more. Ignition is there, electricity arrives at the starter, also turns at the short close, but does not start when I turn at the key. Possibly immobilizer or ignition lock defective?? have you got a clue? thank you already!!

Tach people! I would like to know, but only for fun, what is probably the biggest combo ever built in the world. I searched the net, but did not find anything reasonable. I am interested in the volume of the trunk, as well as the rest of the dimensions. I just start and guess that the Caprice Station Wagon is definitely among the highest ranked ones. How about the wagons that Ford built in the 70s? Those were also very nice ships. Always with Expertise, data and opinions!

Evening. Need help!!!! Subject 70s Chevy Nova with 350cui engine. About seven years ago I converted from drum to disc. SSBC conversion kit A123-1. BKV and HBZ did not take out of the kit, but installed a rather inexpensive unit in chrome from Ebay.com. The hoped-for “Aha effect” concerning the braking performance after the conversion, however, remained out at the time. The brake force reinforcement was hardly noticeable…… Since the car is not moving very much, I first lived with it with it. d thought that it could only get better if I switch to a disc at some point in the back. That’s what happened last year. SSBC conversion kit A125,compatible with the front disc brake! The previously installed,traditional,old-style proportional valve replaced me with an adjustable one by SSBC (A0730). I try to adjust a few pictures. As far as everything is chic,but all without any striking success. Despite meticulous, multiple venting incl.”bench bleaching” like the Ami the venting The more serious problem that I have after the last ventilation excesses, however, is that I already have four hot brake discs and grinding noises after one kilometer of test drive with careful braking manoeuvres – i.e. constant brake pressure. I can turn all the wheels when the brake is cold. I’m about to light the car. Where is the fault? My guess would be that if the brake is cold, I can turn all the wheels. I’m about to light the car. he Brake Booster/Master Cylinder Unit just looks good, but scrap is,not compatible,the Brake Booster is a dummy or whatever…….Thank you in advance for constructive tips. Greetings,Thomas

Hello community, I would like to exchange the shaker 500 in my 2009 Mustang for a Kenwood DDX4018DAB (2 Din Radio). I ordered the aperture, including the adapter cable. Now see in this Do It Yourself tutorial that an additional 12V/5V voltage converter is needed?? Is this true?https://www.autoextrem.de/…/ Maybe someone has already done the conversion and can say if it is right. Some say so, others so.. Greeting Tim

Counteract Balancing Beads, Wundermittel ala scratch pen or real alternative? Since I have just mounted the winter bikes on my everyday car I want to write a few words about it. The set of winter tires (renewed) came on the rims before last winter and was equipped with Counteract. The most fuzzy was to get the tattery pearls in the tires. Due to the electrostatic charges they have a crazy own life. However, they don’t run through the valve shaft themselves. I tried to inflate them which doesn’t work. Then I pulled vacuum pressure on the tires with a vacuum pump and had the little shitties suck in, so it works perfectly. Since I have the inclination to tend to retread tyres on a 90hp car with 95% city share, I have a great test object. Tyre services also maintain the mär the retreaded tire are virtually not balanced out, next to the Märc Anyway, the tyres astonished me with perfect running behaviour already last winter. Better than any one of them even more meticulously classically balanced tyres. That may be related to the fact that they only start their balancing process on the vehicle and thus also compensate for unbalances of the suspension. I wondered if the storage of the function would be detrimental and the answer is no! The winter tyres ran right away again perfectly, better than the classically balanced tyres. So for me, the counteract is not a miracle product from television advertising, but a really ingenious balancing method.

Hello together, I need your swarm knowledge, because we probably have a big problem. My resp. mates Viper V10 8,3L somehow does not run round for some time. Stand but also forever around. Now in the workshop we measured the compression on all cylinders. This was with ALL cylinders around the 8 bar. I think that is far too little, or what do you mean? In addition, it was found that fuel is in the oil. Also from this I would conclude that what about the piston ring If that’s really the case, what do you think would cost a complete overhaul of the engine?! Besides, the vehicle cannot be read out. It recognizes the vehicle, but it just doesn’t read out anything. Does anyone know the problem and has an idea what that can be? With Dodge RAM SRT, the compression is well over 10 bar! Many questions, sorry! Thanks and greetings, Flo

hello, next week it’s finally time. I can pick up my firebird briefly to me: my first ami was a dodge challenger srt8. the car was my absolute dream. I drove it for a long time and then had the demand for value-resistant old iron then by chance at a us-car workshop saw a 68 firebird and immediately fell in love with me. at the end it became a 69 firebird with the typical 350 engine and automatic. condition is very good. inside is original and nic It’s a California black-plate-car. I have a us-fangemeide together with a few colleagues. we are from Hanover and surroundings and are constantly growing. maybe you have a good time to visit us on facebook ROADRUNNERS HANNOVER

Dear users of the US-Car Forum, I ask here because I have found no other subforum. I will fly to the USA with my cousin in June for 14 days. We want to visit Seattle and then also to Vancouver and Yellowstone National Park. Who else has tips, what should not be missed in this area? Mt St Helens, Mt Rainer and Northern Cascades? Mt Rushmore becomes too far. Thank you in advance.

Good evening together Is there someone here who drives a 2004-2006 Dodge Ram SRT10? We are currently looking for a fun third-party car for fine weather weekends, possibly with occasional camping trips. I am used to a lot of the Panamera Turbo and AMG G-Class in terms of consumption, but I read the most diverse statements on the net. I am aware that my own driving method strongly influences this factor, we drive or cruise but 80% overland and highway (130…because Switzerland). e write 16L – others report about easy 35L … what’s the thing now ? Does someone really drive the car and can’t just report about the uncle who knows you? Does the car (and the RAM in general) have special flaws that you should pay attention to during a viewing? What about the general parts supply and how expensive are normal wear parts such as brakes, air filters ect? Is the normal service for the semi-experienced hobby screwdriver feasible? How to write 16L – others report about easy 35L … is RAM technology generally reliable / prone? Is running performance around 100,000km a problem? I thank you for your feedback and wish you a nice evening!