Category: US Cars Forum

Hello everyone, I bought me a nice 1968 Chrysler New Yorker with LPG system. The Dutch salesman also knew about it so well, I don’t have printed instructions, on the net I don’t find the right one, therefore I hope that someone can give me tips on the correct operation. Short to me, 55 years, from the car area, but with gas so far nothing on the hat. I just want to say that I know how a carburettor works and what the Venturi effect is… The basic function of the gas system is clear to me so far, only with the correct operation haperts, since I never had a gas car. In the interior I have the control panel, see photo. Left gas, right petrol. I suspect that each electric valve unlocks the gas or gasoline supply. In MIttelstellung probably both closed. In addition I have a retrofitted train, which I have to pull when I drive with gas (or was it vice versa?) I make the days carburettor r I don’t know whether I can/should start directly with gas or first with petrol and only then, when warm drives, so that evaporators are heated, can switch to gas (according to the Dutch I could drive with gas) In Youtube videos I saw that you should drive from petrol to gas first carburettor empty before switching to gas. But that would mean n that engine runs out and you have to restart, and that during the ride ? Or do I have thinking errors in there ? How is the exact procedure when switching off on gas and unconverted when switching back on petrol ? Does someone know good links, whether text or video, where that is well explained ? ( unfortunately found nothing suitable) Then another question, does the tank have an automatic filling stop at 80% ? On the control panel, the green scale, is this a kind of tank clock for the gas tank ? Is there on the rig Is there anything else I need to consider, especially in terms of security? I really thank you for replies Best regards Gerd

Hello everyone, have recently got a 68 Chrylser Newyorker 4-door in half original condition. Unfortunately, the car hangs a bit down in the back, probably feathers lame or because of the gas tank in the trunk. I’m not quite sure now, if it may have the correct height at the back and is only too high at the front. I saw that on the front axle a lot of rubbers were changed, maybe they set the height wrong. Can someone call me the correct height and how or where do I measure it? I could put a little deeper on the front over the preloading of the torso rods, but that would change the fall of the wheels, or am I wrong? Could I possibly add two air spring bellows on the rear axle? If yes, does anyone know a good source of supply or accurate models? Thanks for an answer and greetings Gerd

Hi, since there is a possibility to get my Chevy C10 back from the workshop, I want to look slowly for an alternative. It is still planned that a friend with a suitable trailer will bring the car to me (about 5km). However, the trailer is only sporadically available and an alternative is not given here. The only trailer rental here has only one with 1.95m width, too narrow for the pickup. How wide are car transporters in general? with its slightly over 2m track width on every transporter? I would like to drive him just here, but without Tüv there are no short-term signs anymore. I would like to thank the penners “the with their rolling scrap piles have provided for this tightening Greetings Chris PS. Before you ask, no the workshop has no red signs.

Dear Community, After almost 10 years of Porsche I would like to switch to a V8 which allows me a puristic driving experience. It is to become a Factory Five Cobra. The so-called replicas are personally difficult to estimate in terms of price and technical. Especially with regard to the price I am unsure what such a car is really worth. There are not so many to evaluate and compare it… Through some contacts I have received the following offer: 1. Factory Five Repl. BJ1965 2. Running The vehicle was completely restored in Germany three years ago 4. H-mark 6. Price: 55.000€ The vehicle is in good technical condition and the body has a very good gap. The car looks good from the outside and inside. I have the following questions: 1. Do I have to pay attention to something special with the car? 2. What is the price stability? Even if it is a replica.. 3. Is the price OK? I have been talking to some people, but I would like to I want to use the width here to evaluate the car from distance a little. VG Gregor

After engine damage, the complete engine V8/Hubraum 7000, revised, i.e. piston, carburetor (precious rock) new, distributor new) and everything that belongs to it. The workshop said that I had to drive in the engine 1000km, then you can go to the fine adjustment = carburetor. Got now 800km down, but the initial problem is still there: jumps very bad (in cold condition) , goes out again, has to be brought with a lot of gas to run. After that restless engine run, vehicle shakes. With a lot of gassing and poking, it then runs quietly. Start in a warm state no problem. At speeds up to 50km/h Ruckeln, then everything is fine, runs well. Has it cost me almost a five-digit sum, for that I expect from what. Stimt the statement with the 1000km? Who can give me a tip? – Thank you in advance.

Hello, about everything you read about the out of Corvette and Camaro.Camaro from in EU Does anyone know if this also applies to importers? Has anyone heard about the other brands? Supposedly there will be no new jeep with V8. Greeting Marcus

Halo dear community, Since I just have the opportunity to rent a small hall in which the screwing is allowed, the thought of my long-awaited desire for an Ami comes up again. Therefore, I would be interested in your opinion on the following offer. It should become my entry into the US Car World……….http://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Thank you Sven

Moin people, I probably did something wrong with my treasure. After the conversion to LPG it took about 5000km and swops, valves burned. Cylinder 1 and 3 0 compression. Despite always meaningful driving on LPG. He never gets more than 3000u/min on LPG with me. My questions now: 1. Is this engine (46 N* 305hp) not suitable for operation with LPG? 2. Let the engine overtake, or rather new unit? (I am thinking of stronger valves/valve seats while overtaking) 3. Then flash-lube in and everything will be fine? 4. Gasumbauer knock over (pictured) because he explicitly told me: Och, Flash-lube do you need net? I thank you already for your answers… Does really hurt to see this eagle stand as a wing-lame duck in the garage. Gruss Marco

I have been left a Firebird Trans Am in the garage by my landlord, with the words “If you sell it for me, you can use the garage”. At the moment I would only like to have it out of the garage to take photos and, above all, to be able to put my car in at some point. Problem is that my landlord has now lost all the keys to the car. The car is open, but I can’t get the P-course out. The question is now… can you easily bypass this lock? It is not, as far as I am informed, a theft protection, but only a protection mechanism, so that one does not unintentionally roll off or go off or whatever… therefore one would have to be able to put this mechanism out of force. It is now impossible for me to push the gear lever. Also shitty no matter what is still broken. As long as I get rid of the car there again. So if someone has a suggestion, or even is interested in the vehicle, I would be happy. Greetings The_Xperience

Hello. I have a K30 ex-army and a problem. Last night was on a nice wet meadow and didn’t come any further. I thought half so bad, I have four wheel. Pustekuchen! I put the freewheel hubs on lock, inside on 4H and even on 4L but nothing does. Except the rear wheels. Is already embarrassing if one gets stuck with such a car on a wet meadow already. The freewheel hubs I have already unscrewed and looked after. The functioning perfectly. Where could you look again? I hope for a little bit more. Thank you very much.