Category: US Cars Forum

Hello, I know this question may be terrible for many, but nevertheless I throw it into the room: In advance I am an absolute newcomer, so please don’t stone me directly. Unfortunately, I still have no/low experience but fortunately someone who screws a lot with cars but almost exclusively VW from oldtimer to “normal” and would support me. It’s about the following, visually I like in general Muscle Cars very much, whereby I myself the more expensive BMWs nic As a student, I don’t get the money to buy me a “real” pony car, and I’m especially looking for something to “screw” and I came up with the idea if it’s not possible to get my “problem” from the other side. If I’ve read this correctly, there are some of the pony cars “drilled” variants of series cars. Are you looking for cheap cars that resemble the Muscle Cars (I know there are some under categories)? it can be built into a corresponding chassis “simple” a weak engine e.g. from a golf? To make it clear again, I would like to have a car, which is optically reminiscent of the MuscleCars but inexpensive. It does not need to have a strong engine (on the contrary, I would much rather have a economical one). It doesn’t matter if it is really a US car or of which brand or similar I am tolerant. It doesn’t need H license plates (of course would be economical + H , but that’s even more unreliable than the rest I guess) As long as it remains cheap it wouldn’t bother me if you had to remodel some parts there, it just doesn’t make sense for me if the money then disappears into the conversion parts but the rest was cheap. I’ve already read that it probably doesn’t look so great with spare parts anyway, does this only concern “original” parts? I know that this is very blue-eyed but nevertheless I have the hope that there may be As I said, time and a helper with access to tools and the experience of installing motors and gears I would have at hand, “only” the change seems to be the problem Greetings

Hello together, if the ignition is set too early, it can come to the well-known “bell”… How fast can this ringing lead to an engine damage ?? already after a few times powerfully give gas or takes the longer ? How does the ringing sound at all ?? has probably someone a matching video ? Thanks Achim

Hello guys, I didn’t want to believe it at the financial office. But what they told me was confirmed to me several times now. If you have previously received the Euro 2 by an expert report on a subsequent installation of a KLR, this is no longer possible since 2010. The expert reports are probably no longer recognized as proof of an installation. Quotation: The expert reports are probably no longer recognized because of some new certainty and thus the KLR must be changed to ABE. n in my eyes and unnecessary, bureaucratic sch**ß. Quotation: Jap, the DEKRA came up with. Somehow there was what the whole part reports were made too close to the Polish border and therefore now an ABE is required. But there are the people already, but as cheap as before it certainly won’t be any more. So people, this point goes probably to the father state and its tax office, again. If you know more or see a possibility, then write still I’d like to ask you something about this topic. I’m sure some people might be interested in this. You can’t find much on this topic on the Internet yet.

Hello guys, I would like to free my 72 Pontiac from the steering wheel and put one (I think hurst shifter calls it ??) in the middle console. Unfortunately I find in the net not really something about it. Is this basically a big effort? Has someone done such a thing before? Is there a “installation instructions” about help and tips I would be very happy about

Servus! I am a motor vehicle apprentice, will be in April 19 and my dream is to bring a V8 Ami on the road before or on my 20th birthday, which is of course also driven by me. Of course, it should only be moved in summer and in good weather. Something to me: Age: 18 Location: Kempten (Allgäu) Taste of music: Metal and rock: Rebellion, AC/DC, Airbourne, louder so vigor What makes me excited about the Americans: Origin America SOUND V8 petrol engine SOUND rear drive SOUND the look eh what else? achso: SO AND Requirements: I want a coupe or a pickup! H – Approval should be possible, except the V8 is very cheap in maintenance! As fuel is E85 available. in the case of a pickup a truck registration? minimum 5 milk bags displacement purchase price max 4,000 I can not really decide between pickup and coupe. with the pickup I have the possibility to get a truck registration and can transport things (e.g. Quad etc.) With the coupe I can rather Pers What I’m thinking about e.g. Camaro Gen 3 Corvette C4 Is there anything else? How much will the maintenance cost? Recommendations, advice? Can I also drive truck pickups with a stink normal B driver’s license? Hope you can do something with me. LG Philipp

Hey guys, I’m new here and I hope I’m right. Since I’m little, I’ve always been amazed when I see fast sports cars or strong muscle cars on pictures, videos, video games or on the road. But I’ve been stuck on one for years. For about a decade, I’ve been dreaming of driving a 68 Ford Mustang and I’d like to get the dream fulfilled soon. I’d like to be able to restore one completely, because first of all, I’d like to go back to e way can be more proud of the car and me and secondly is a likely long, difficult process that can give me a little more joy every day. My questions now would be: -Where can I find a restoreable (no scrapy) 68 Ford Mustang that is affordable? -Are there things to be paid attention to especially when buying such a car (in terms of the age of the model)? -Is there anyone willing to help me with choice and purchase? -What do I need to be more proud of the car and me? I am 19 years old, have had my driver’s license for almost 2 years, have basic knowledge in the field of cars, have support in the restoration (should it (hopefully) come to it) and am grateful for any help you give me. Greetings, Luke

Hello, I have imported a 31er roadster from Kentucky myself. The car was offered via Classicgateway in the customer order. The car was described in detail in pictures and video. I had been searching intensively for several months and the car was in equipment and description a dream. Also I was warned of the spatula bombers and blenders. So I took for support and processing still an agent on recommendation of the importer. I had planned 5000 euros for the repair of hidden defects for the worst case, which would have cost me a week USA itself. What then scared me. After 3 weeks of repair we have so far the following defects: Body only screwed with chassis between chassis and body Pressboard instead of wooden blocks tank leaks, simply with Kl ebeband sealed motor carrier totally rotted & spatted defective leaf spring engine of course does not leak gas clock internal bell missing in cardan gearbox And so every day new surprises come. My mistake was that I relied very much on the agent, who is actually considered experienced & reliable. The underbody photos were taken only from the side. What would interest me. The agent thinks this is an extreme case that he has never experienced. and that this is so common, but only a few write about it.

after a successful test drive I got a 89er Pontiac Firebird. full of anticipation I wanted to hear at least once more my v6 blubbern until I registered it and can drive it. but he didn’t want that. it was -12°C but also at temperatures just below or above 0°c he is stubborn. loud salesman I then called he had the car in a heated garage before. and now my question to you : why jump amis when cold not / hard on u and what can you do about it??

Good evening, I have a little problem with my 1997 Lincoln Mark VIII. Something to the history: the Lincoln had yellow turn signals and everything wonderful, however, during this conversion was built properly Murks: the brake light switch was simply cut through and led back to the brake lights, the cable of the brake light [Through the cable leads brake and flash light, since no brake light arrives – since cut – only a flash signal arrives] was then rear i The car flashes yellow and brakes red without flashing red. This led to the following m.M.n. serious problems, which met the requirement for yellow turn signals but has deactivated the following by far important things: – Tempomat does not push out at the brake, I found out when I drove on the highway at 130 km/h and had to brake. The car then gave full throttle, as it probably thought I was going up a mountain. Here – The ABS didn’t work anymore, but no error was shown, because there was no malfunction. The car doesn’t know that I’m braking because the cable is cut. – The Torque Lock Up didn’t go out while braking anymore, the gearbox turned down very funny. I was able to fix the problem temporarily, because I switched it all back to original. So the cut-out cable got back to it again. All the above problems were gone. Now, however, I would like to turn yellow again and did the following: The flashing light is picked up by the front turn signals, the brake light I led directly from the brake light switch to the bulbs and additionally into the module which should know that I press also on the brake. So far everything is ok, however, the turn signal is blinking now very fast. Since I actually have 0 idea I am now a bit unsich Is it right to assume that the brake/blink light cable that has been shut down now has to be replaced? I have heard that problems can also arise with the light module, this also applies to the year 1997 or concerns the more recent models in particular Ford Mustang? I have also added the schematics. I would be very pleased about suggestions!

The sound is purely speed-dependent, and becomes audible from about 50 km/h, it is a “rrrrrrrrrrr”… which, when the speed increases, logically also increases the pitch/frequency. It does NOT change in the case of load changes, NOT in the case of curves, NOT in the case of brake actuation, also not analog to the speed, but it rolls somehow with… purely speed-dependent, no matter which gear I am in. noisey what only “freaks” hear, but it’s also not really loud, but every passenger asks at some point “what’s that for noise?” It sounds like a plastic fan, not directly a hum, rather such a “plastic noise”, a bit like when you walk with the fingernail on a PC fan. It’s not a plastic part that scrubs on the tire profile, because I have already “driven” the car on the lifting platform – without wheels, even then the noise is there. Unfortunately, I can hear this It’s just perfect to hear it inside (from 60 km/h), when you have closed all the windows. I ALWAYS drive in summer with an open sunroof (noise level) and didn’t notice it until autumn, when I had closed everything. So I can’t tell if it came slowly or suddenly appeared. I’ve been driving about 2000 km since then and I think that the noise hasn’t worsened or only slightly since then. f a little something that I can discover and fix during the seasonal bike change, but Pustekuchen…., I don’t hope for anything in the differential? Or can a wheel bearing sound like this, especially without load and wheel on the lifting platform? A wheel bearing is rather buzzing and changes in load (curves), isn’t it? STS (Bj. 05/01, EZ 12/02) has 95,000 km on the clock. Wheels are a bit wider than series, with distance discs, which of course puts a little more strain on the wheel bearings. Gear oil is approx. 2 2,000 km old. There’s no missing… About Tips/Ideas I would be very grateful to you!