Category: US Cars Forum

Good morning, my name is Kevin, and I’ve been following the forum for US Cars for quite some time now, because I want to make it possible for myself to drive a second car that has twice as many cylinders as my first car. I’m now under 30 and I’ve come back to get my first Ami. What am I supposed to do, and why am I posting here? I’m looking for a classic from the 60s. And NO! I’m not one of those who has a stainless Ford Mustang for 30 00,- € want to have 😉 What I’m looking for is a convertible cruiser that is “beginner friendly”. Under beginner friendly I understand that my budget is about 10-12k + reserve for expenses/repertures that are clearly recognizable when buying. Also there is something in the backhand for unexpected repertures that will always occur with a 40-50 year old vehicle. I looked around a bit and made a “pre-selection”. Unfortunately Google doesn’t give a lot of “experienced experience” gwerten” regarding “classical problems” or “degree of experience with classic cars” which of these vehicles is suitable for a beginner. Here is a list of vehicles that would agree to me: Could you recommend or advise one of these vehicles and explain to me why and what I have to pay attention to in such a selection? Are there any alternatives? As for reperatures: my father-in-law has a very well equipped workshop incl. pit. However, my only experience so far the screwing of current vehicles and the construction of an old beetle convertible, in which I have not welded myself. Now you know my taste, my budget and my experience … what are the recommendations of those who know much better in the scene than I do, and what tips can you give me? Thank you! Greetings, Kevin

Hello. I had a problem with my Fibi again. Had last night the battery removed to drive another car (with empty battery) to the side. I just installed it again and the Fibi went immediately after the first half turn (he has never done so yet. usually he has to sled for 1-2 seconds). Then battery out again to put the other car back from yesterday and battery back in again. Engine jumped on again immediately, but after 1 secun I started it again and started it again for about 20 seconds, started after 3 seconds of idle on 1700 tours and then calmed down slowly. also the lamp (low oil) burned and remained on fire. I then turned it off again after 2 minutes and started again. the same thing, it started after about 2 seconds as usual, lamp stayed off, but the speed went after 5 seconds on about 1700 tours and normalized only slowly. ha b Oil checked and is between low and full. exactly in the middle. What does that mean? does the ECU have to be reprogrammed after the long power failure?? Or did I skyrocket anything with the battery expansion??? Will tomorrow with the car on vacation and really do not want to scrap it. Please help me quickly! Thank you!

Hello, I again. Would have a question about my `93 Firebird, which is actually a `94er.. (4th generation) the temperature indicator stands at these temperatures mostly 105 degrees (Celsius). on highway rides it stands at 75 (Celsius) (which probably has to do with the wind), but if I stand still (stowage or so ) the temperature often rises to close to the red area (125). Once (after about 4 hours drive on the rest place) I got off and went around the car. to see if the tires are warm (by the way were also quite warm, however warmer than outside temperature ((problem??))) ). Anyway, I noticed that a huge heat was emitted from the side of the car. and when the bonnet was opened, I noticed that the cooling ventilator ( despite strong heat ) stands still (engine and ignition off). My question: Is it normal that the engine gets so warm at current temperatures? How warm should it be?? drive ad (C) even further, because the driving wind cools the engine well? By the way, I don’t have a drop of water (added) in my cooler. Is everything cool liquid from Shell and if the engine is cold I have the same filling level for 3 months, so no leaks.

I know this topic again, but I don’t find a suitable answer. I’m looking for a suitable tonneau cover for my loading area. Since there is nothing clever in this country, I will probably have to import from the USA. At Summit I found something suitable, and after finding out the species in the s10Forum in the states probably also something clever.store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp Should cost 169.95 $ in the USA. What the shipping costs at Summit do not get out yet n, with Rockauto costs shipping 150$. In addition, there are still inches (between 3 and 5 % if I have informed myself correctly) and 19% VAT. Will the VAT be charged on the total amount including shipping costs or only on the price of the goods? At US-Partsonline the fun is supposed to cost around 300€ to outside my door, KTS I have not tried yet, there is the server… At KTS is now probably also 2 years warranty on it, should one import, or get it yourself? What do you mean?

Hi! Around the turn of the year, the “W” registration marks are introduced here in D. So up to 3 cars drive over 1 registration plate and only pay the taxes + insurance for the most expensive. As far as the theory is concerned. Now my thoughts about the practice: I drive for example at my PickUp the small (in the meantime only hard to get) registration plate. Suppose I would eventually buy a city intelligent car (to make the cliché perfect: 3L Lupo). As far as the “normal” markings (normal dimensions) are concerned, there are already good products (especially on the Swiss market) that make it possible to change the markings by means of a click mechanism without screws in seconds. Now I wonder, what does someone like me do, who wants to quickly pack the small rather square-looking markings from the PickUp to a Lupo to go shopping? Do you have any ideas? There are not yet any solutions for this. Just like the thing about the TÜV plaque?! It is then determined (similar to Switzerland) to glue the windscreen from the inside, instead of on the license plate. Greetings, Lukas.

Good afternoon, I just can’t decide for myself which is the most beautiful musclecar. Whether Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Camaro or Dodge Challenger… Ford Mustang Chevrolet Camaro Chevrolet Chevelle Chevrolet Corvette Chevrolet El Camino Dodge Challenger Dodge Charger Plymouth Superbird Plymouth Cuda Plymouth roadrunner Buick Reviera Mercury Cougar Pontiac GTO Pontiac Firebird Chrysler 300C Or maybe another one? Which one do you find most beautiful? Writes until the keyboard squirts. Many Thank you.

Hello together, I am still looking, have already visited various vehicles. In my search I also got to the Malibu Club near Hannover, have already advertised here. Malibu-Cars this is the current vehicle offer. What do you think of it? I would like the 72 Monte Carlo, the 72 Galaxy 500 and the Galaxy 500 Cabrio. However, I think the prices are a little too high, the cars come partly overpainted or at least loveless la … or have I lost faith in honest sellers Give me your opinion about the mentioned cars again!! Thank you already in advance, I’m curious what the remote diagnostics so result.

Good day people I am still a little light at the Us van sky for this is my enthusiasm for this kind of vans very strong. I am through unf by a USA Freak =) I have already received many useful infos from you like zb KLR Euro 2 and and and and (thanks for it ) only one question is still open: I want to put a used van ( G20, Vandura or Econoline) just I would like to know what so en 5-6 L V8 engine can withstand at KM / Mls running power. can I get one of the 150 000 KM has run=???? I would be happy about an early answer mfg Tyler

Hi Since my engine in my blazer is slowly but surely coming to the end of my life, I have to assemble a new engine well or badly. Since I am dependent on the blazer ( Daily) I had to go looking for another engine, of course I also found one at a mock price ( 4 Bolt). The engine stood around the last 15 years and was not driven anymore, after this time it is clear that on the block rust accumulates and other dirt. With which procedure war ic h the rust and dirt most easily down without messing up something? I don’t like working with the flex and braid brush, that will be too little clean for me. In various US forums you talk about sandblasting but can’t imagine that this is good for the block, because of the whole channels and so on or am I wrong? The block is completely processed after doing the cleaning, so say drilling, honing, milling etc. Which method can you recommend to me? Which is best around the rust to Remove? Thank you for your help

Tach! I have a problem with my Holley carburetor (R84014-1 650cfm). I have mounted the carb on a freshly reconditioned Chevy 5.7L block. Now the problem is that the car is running very fat. And that was so fat that my chrome bumper was black after 10 minutes drive. The engine is running quite well in the stand, while the ride, on the other hand, it jerks, and has far too little power. If someone has a tip like me to buy the carburetor without a jet set for 100$, a little lean frame t? MfG Daniel