Category: US Cars Forum

Hello, I hope I get a little help here. So I want to get a US car. Budget approx. up to 70,000 EUR. I have 3-4 models as favourites. Dodge Charger Plymouth Cuda Shelby Mustang Elenore Chevrolet Camaro But now the problems or question marks start with me. Eleonore is in my view rather a clone car (Original Shelby GT500 falls out of the budget frame 🙂 ) Are the Clone cars worth somewhat stable or do the cars simply have too little oldtimers on What do you think of the 3 selected cars? Shelby E BIgBlock Camaro dodge charge

Hello, please don’t hit me because I opened the 25 thousandth engine oil fred, but I need your help, or I would like to hear your opinion on the subject. It is about a Jeep CJ7 Bj. 1977 with the 232ci (3.8L) 6 Zyl. AMC engine. The vehicle has about 80,000km at the hump and was now after about 6 years “stand around in the hall” revived by me. The machine runs quite well. I changed the engine oil before the first start and filled in a Total Rubia 15W40 engine oil. Is a very normal engine oil with which you can do nothing wrong with an old engine in my opinion. Always check the oil level nicely, engine should be healthy from the point of view of the oil consumption. What I noticed, however, is that if it is at operating temperature the hydro plunger (I know that it has some) begin to clack. In the cold state after the start the noise is not to be heard. Have already combed through several sides and it is on the topic “crack And now I need your help. 1. If anyone can tell me which oil is perhaps more suitable for this machine, they could not find anything on US sites to do so. 2. Furthermore, I would like to have opinions on oil additives such as the LiquiMolly hydro impact charge, and if this could “suppress” the hydros. 3. I also read that one could wash and clean the engine. 3. I also read that one can wash and clean the engine. s, about half a liter of diesel can be filled, and the engine should run 2min on stand gas, then make oil change. In principle, I think, it is about cleaning the hydros or the engine, and I would like to have your opinion on it now! mfg mr_vollgas

Hi, I have unfortunately with my blazer the problem that the front axle (think I at least) cracks during the ride with open freewheel hubs. The whole looks about like this: If I drive with open freewheel hubs (ca from 80 KM/h) and go down from the gas there is a short cracking or to the coach transmitted throbbing (but I do not speak of the normal driving noises of an amis ) . The same is then also when I go on again on ́s gas. This short cracking or. When the freewheel hubs are closed, this problem doesn’t occur… I changed oil a few days ago, but I saw that the joint of the front cardan shaft (on the right side) is already pulled out. I don’t think it could be because of it but I wanted to mention it (you never know ) Can someone help me? MFG Patrick

At the front of my brake calipers, I can push the pistons back extremely hard with a screw force, e.g. for the recent change of the lining. In addition, when the brake pedal is operated on the removed saddle, the upper pistons come out twice as far as the lower one. The right front wheel can also be turned a little hard. That’s why I have now looked at Rockauto and noticed that there are also repair kits. These are the seals around the pistons and the dust seals. ??? With my old MZ I got the saddle from the disc brake to at least so again (piston out, ground with fine sandpaper, new seal on it and again in with it). By the way: with Rockauto would me 2 saddles 139,78$ + 97,18$ shipping + any tax cost – that is already really fat (the nebse costs) – there is this somewhere cheaper???? I find only in the English-speaking pages (e.g. gmparts etc.) no saddles and also nothing with photo. I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I mean, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, like, I kind of, I kind of, like, I kind of, I kind of, like, I kind of, I kind of, like, I kind of, I kind of, like, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, like, I kind of, I kind of, like, I kind of, I kind of, like, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind of, I kind, I kind of, I kind, I kind, I know, I know, I know, I know, I mean, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I know, I

Hi! My window lifter on the passenger side has been having problems sporadically for a long time (he once went, sometimes he didn’t go). Just now he completely failed his service. I describe the problem: the window is currently half open. Both from the driver side switch and from the passenger side switch, the window can be opened even further, but no longer up! This means for me that the engine in the passenger door is not defective. At the switch it won’t be lying either, since I have now taken down the door panel and tried to unscrew the sheet metal behind it. However, I have to find out that the window lifting mechanism is riveted. I don’t really believe in a mechanical defect, because it can be opened further. Is there a relay somewhere for “open passenger side” or something? That maybe only that is broken? Everything else goes well. So, and now here with the n Tips…is currently glued off with foil, because of course it has to start raining right now… Greetings, Lukas.

Always something new.. In 1999 I had a new noble brock spin/gasifier on it at the Camaro (5.7) because the original carburettor was broken as well as fan manifolds with side exhaust system. Fan manifolds with exhaust were registered at the time including the changed stand/driving noise. Spider/gasifier did not consider that the TÜV at that time was not necessary: -only replacement parts, since no original air filter was installed -in his opinion no significant performance In 2022 I wanted to, since it did not work last year and under another a workshop near Munich probably had no desire for my car and did not want to support me in obtaining the H-approval because you can choose the customers, then take care of the H number. After consultation with a TÜV examiner the registration would also be no problem in relation to the “H” since 20 years ago a However, because of the increase in performance that the car comes to a test bench. This worries me basically because I don’t know if the engine/gear unit will survive such a test run. The engine, or the car is technically fit, but the engine has never been dismantled and has been completely overhauled since it has been running very well so far. Do I worry about this for no reason and is that not a problem at all? I also wonder if the test run really has to be built, original air filter box and contemporary. In the letter anyway only the “ca.” indication is in it. Is there experience values how much extra power spider/carburettor/cavity curvature really bring?

Hello together, since I have fulfilled my dream of the V8 with a 2003 Tahoe now before 6 months ago, I still found some electrical errors with which I am easily overwhelmed and which make me extremely nervous. Therefore I hope here the help I need to correct the errors. The following errors are present: 1) If I close the Tahoe, should actually flash the blinkers, with my blink the interior lighting. ???? 2) How I get the Tahoe ha I drove with permanent light, after I made myself smart about it, I noticed that someone had removed the light sensor. I replaced it now and the automatic light works again, however my day-driving still does not work. Have me as far as it went pre-worked by the turn signals, lamp socket checked, all cables connected – relays incl. fuse checked, everything OK. Does anyone of you know further?? Then please help me with the troubleshooting . Or someone has a circuit diagram. Thank you in advance, Gruss Stephan [translated by Motor-Talk from the topic ‘Chevy Tahoe B2W 2003 electrical problems’.]

Moin, I found ammunition during the restoration in my vintage car, you don’t often experience it! What would you have done? Would you have acted like that?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChOFUDUOZ80