Category: US Cars Forum

Hello guys, for a few days, oil drips from my 240 D. I checked all this time, and for me it looks like the oil tank seal is through. The oil seems to be mainly on the screws on the seal (back area). From above apparently no oil comes from anywhere. Have cleaned the place once and wanted to check it again in a few days. Has any of you ever had experience with it? Thanks and greetings to the round Willy

Hello, this morning at the daily look out in the automobile exchanges a vehicle seemed very familiar to me. The car was near me, at the beginning of April and still had rest TÜV. As Dailydriver I would have liked it, but then wanted to drive no switch, so I had not looked at the car more closely. Now it has been advertised again today with new TÜV and only 265,000 km and almost 1,500 € more expensive! In the area Böblingen, before that the car was in Schorndorf, about 50 km I have searched for the old ad, a tip if you want to search for old ads that are no longer available, enter the keywords (mostly the ad header), in this example “mobile 230E 2.500 € chimney village”, then click “in cache” (the green triangle) and the old ad will come. Have taken a picture of where the cache stands. To hold on I made screenshots, but without the phone numbers, you can get the same The alleged fraudster didn’t even bother to make new pictures, but saved the old ones and took them over. Everyone could put something like this here, if you had the ads, sure it would advise someone to be cheated by their purchase intention.

Good evening parish, I came to the W111 like the virgin to the child. Unfortunately I did not have any literature about it, nor have I seen this device (built together) from the inside. But I couldn’t say no either. And when my mechanic learned at MB, the boxes were already over 30. Soon the box will be in the postcode area 04720. Maybe there is someone nearby who has such a model himself and can give me tips in terms of technology etc.. The 111 ́er is in full swing. ig disassembled but completely, i.e. all parts are available and so I pick it up. New thresholds have already been welded in, the new floor sheets are as new parts in the car. Further massive welding work has to be done, such as at the lower C-pillars, end tips, HA, spray wall, injection wall sides, front and rear car. Since partly on the right side of the spray wall a piece of approx. 30x40cm is missing – there are somewhere documents, how ́s there to look? About tips, where you can repair liters I would be grateful if you would also get here for bodywork. There is still time for a W124 T to be restored. We know more about this.

Hello together, after longer activity with the newer models (S205) I have now gucked into an older model (W123). I probably on Monday a test drive with a 220D with automatic. I looked at it about two weeks ago already. The interior is clean, the trunk as from the factory, no rust recognizable on the body. The engine compartment is not washed and makes a good impression. I wanted to ask once in the round, what I still pay attention to during the test drive. after all, he now has 166 tkm (Bj ’78) down. Has probably remained in first possession for a long time, was passed on in the family, but the niece has no pleasure in it. The H-mark is available, TÜV anyway. I wanted to take a closer look at the typical rust spots of course, but I am grateful for every tip, especially the opinions regarding the automatic. Cost should be the fun 5,300€. Just don’t know if I should really hit him. Wanted him for the Arbe Use itsweg (route: 65km; about 26tkm per year). Garage space is available (at home and work). Thank you very much for your help Greeting Willy

Hi Together, I tried to sell my 240D ( W123 ) this year. But ALL supposed buyers expected a new car condition. My W123 is now 33,5 years old and has already run 186,500 km. It is without dalls and without bumps. The engine runs perfectly and does not rust. But then is searched and every still small rust spot creededed. I decided for me now to prepare the complete car and all rust spots expertly b What always bothers me the most when one tells one that there is viiieeel better at a cheaper price. But then when one fears where one finds the offers, is only great silence. I personally find it a pity that one can not negotiate at a certain level, to make the car without reason bad. Did you also have such experiences, or do I always come to such strange people? Greetings from Ludwigshafen John

Hi, I have read that there is a conversion from the permanent drive of the fan. Instead, an electric motor is installed, which is controlled by a thermostat valve. This should lead up to additional 7hp. Does this conversion make sense???It doesn’t matter to me on the 7hp. 🙂 Does this conversion lead to the loss of the H-mark??

Good evening together. I’d like to buy a Young- / Oldtimer. The Mercedes factory is already clear. I like the shape of the W123 and the sound, the W115/114. Steering wheel shift would be great! Train starter too. I used to drive a small fin of a buddy. That was super-monkey. Now my question: What do you advise me to buy as a vintage car beginner? I say, my budget is about 10,000 euros. The car doesn’t have to be perfect, but reliable and ready to drive. Where do you buy? Best? Rust is a weak spot. I understand that. Is there a purchase advisor who can visit the vehicle with one? That’s it for now. Scrap and cracker-free flight wishes you your rudi, the reindeer.