Category: US Cars Forum

Hello together, I wanted to pick up my Chevy today from the workshop, there was new Tüv and also a new Lambda probe had to be put in and a pair welded. The following problem. When I started it much to me not yet, only where I drove at a traffic light, then I noticed that he was just before drinking. When approaching he had then set himself up again but not on all cylinders, the Check Enginge lamp has lighted from time to time, I then to the factory stat t Back Tuckered and asked what had been done? we had only changed the lambda, we then fished the old one out of the garbage and thought that it could come from it, but this was unsuccessful, the distributor with finger I had then dismantled and seen that this was already finished, I then installed a new including finger, but the problem was still present. Now we are guessless, could it be that the Tüvprüfer has shot at the exhaust gas test any sensor ́ `? or is there any problem that occurs frequently?. What I should possibly say about it is that if the speed is higher all cylinders are running with vehicle: 5.0L 190 thousand Miles Bj 1991 I am grateful for any advice.

Servus. After long years of Caprice, then only scrap, I did it again. I bought a 96 Fleetwood in Belgium. Is there in second hand for years. Does Europe have lights. Now the question. What about import and acceptance? He still has red indicators in the back… Is there a data sheet? Can anyone provide it to me? Against expenses contribution of course. Exhaust will probably Euro Does someone have such a model and would like to report to me?

Last week was another Mecum auction (this time in Chicago) and you could see on two cars how extreme the color influences the value. 1976 Lincoln Town Coupé in yellow, 60k miles, auctioned for 3,500 dollars 1978 Lincoln Town Coupé in triple black, 30k miles, auctioned for 16,500 dollars You can of course also see it like this: if you don’t mind the unpopular colors, you have the chance to get a great car for a little dollar.

Hello to each other, I have written elsewhere, that the new Mustang probably stands as a new car, but when I stood now in front of the new SRT 6.4l Challenger, past. This had even 6 circuit,. Now I ask myself what is it like as a real all-year car? Switch or automatic? In winter the switch should be better to drive if I still think about the winters with my C2500? Or would the 5.7l even be better for that? V6 no wants here also no insult or s o, but ne doesn’t want. It’s also because I’m a lot on the way with the 7.5l Mercury in the summer. You just get Big Block addicted. But long speech very short meaning, How are your experiences? Thank you in advance

Moin moin all together, since I’m new here in the forum, I would like to introduce myself briefly and briefly: Name: Marco Age: Steinalt Gender: I have hobbies: Keeping my ‘new’ STS in touch The car: A 99 Cadillac Seville STS EZ 11/2000, which might have been on hold for a long time… Well, the campaigns for generator and the story with the too deep holes in the engine block he probably got both (at least there are corresponding stickers in the engine compartment). I enjoy every minute now 10,000km in 2 months. Glide with 120 km/h over the track, everything else blurs in the noise insulation of this goddess. For comparison: Before I drove W211… Gas system, 100l tube in the trunk, consumption in the mix 12.8L gas. I am more than thrilled. The Daimler has swallowed this in super with similar driving mode… But where light is, is known also shadow, therefore the problems: – Steering sometimes very difficult at kle – Battery box completely guttered away, meanwhile derusted etc. but the fear remains. Rather a new battery (gel) ? – boot cover can not be opened by remote control or button in the interior. Tank cover already, what now? PS: Does this vehicle usually have a pull-in aid? If yes, it also does not work. – Knarzen front right, well there will be something on the chassis. – Exhaust, resp. Kat rot and clapping around. – PDC at the rear in case of rain unusable. And last but not least, the car tends to get hot in traffic jams. Funny about it: set heating to full heat, then the following phenomenon: coolant becomes hotter and hotter, heating becomes cold then the heating becomes hot, coolant temperature falls then the heating becomes cold again, coolant temperature rises. So far I could always turn it off before it reaches the red area, but be afraid What could be the cause here? Thermostat? Maybe someone would like to comment or share their experiences Gruss St0ney

Hi all together, I have a 2018 Dodge Durango SRT. The car has a brilliant sound, but is really loud. On the one hand, I am scared before the next TÜV/Rennleitung as well as a certain comfort problem with the family. The car came in this condition by the §21 acceptance of the dealer and in the vehicle certificate to U.1 are registered 91dB. Probably he also keeps this, by mobile phone app measurement I came to 88dB. The exhaust is clearly welded together itself and the Qua The original stainless steel SRT system costs an outrageous 6800 euros. Cheapest price is Rockauto with approx. 4900 euros. In addition, the system is currently not available anywhere and there are no used ones. I have 2 offers available via a Kooks system and a Stainless Works Legend. Both for the Durango SRT, both significantly cheaper than the original system and up to the front door This would probably be the “most original” option for which I would have to find an exhaust builder for adaptation. What is this like now with a 21er? There is nothing in the vehicle license for the existing system. Does it really matter which system I build under there, as long as the noise level remains within the frame? What would the legally compliant solution look like and what would the pragmat be like? ische solution? Greetings, Bread mould

Hello dear community. I bought a 90’s Town Car with the 302 CUI machine ( 5 ltr. with 150 hp). Unfortunately and as to be expected a few electric gimmicks do not work. Electric mirrors out of function cigarette lighter (all) out of function window lifter rear out of function. Outside temperature sensor shows some wrong values. But what I am most nervous is that the heating can not be switched off. I have already changed the heating valve, unfortunately without success. h found that no matter what position the temperature selector lever has, no current arrives at the heating valve. Is there a fuse for this? If not possibly the control panel is defective?! Where could the fuse be for this? The fuse box in the engine compartment is not responsible for this? But I haven’t found another one yet. If the control panel is defective here the next question: How can I expand it? I hope for your expert help. Greetings Reinerhttps://dat a.motor-talk.de/…/…18-10-17-pro-8660915626607953063.jpg

Good morning, I renewed the days every 2 feathers on my Caprice – around ACDelco from Rockauto. Now the pot stands at the front about 1″ too high, fits in the back. Looks like shit. Rock offered me an exchange, but the change (I took the variant from the Shop Manual, where you release the two inner screws from the crossbar) was definitely in the top 3 of the worst repairs of my car screwdriver life. Didn’t know when I cursed so much the last time… Of course, I want to avoid the same thing happening with the replacement springs and therefore ask for some experience. I have added ACDELCO 45H0007 (front; limousine; classic Brougham; classic LS Brougham; with air conditioning) incl. new spring bearings above. As I said, the car is about 1″ too high, it lacks about 100kg load per wheel to press everything in shape. In the stand the new ones were not even higher than the original springs, but just installed. The repair is 8 Woc I can hardly imagine the installation errors that cause 2-3cm of height – you guys? If I go on Moog or something now I have bumble be that it goes back to the same, because the feathers are in themselves the right ones. And as I said, the change is an absolute catastrophe, I don’t want to go on without being sure that it fits. So, now I am grateful for every advice and every opinion… Greetings Matthias

Hello, my SRX has a problem with both seat heaters going on but after 10 sec out again! does someone have advice for me? Would you like to swap the fuse evt but in the book is securing under the rear back seat only unfortunately there is nothing to see of fuses. Peter

Greetings Motortalker, look for advice for my Buick Century 56′. And I did get the old starter out because it only clacked but didn’t score. First I just wanted to buy such a maintenance kit, but there are only some parts. So I bought such an After Market thing from WOSP. A so-called “Reduction Gear Starter” My old starter had 3 connections. 1 thick plus cable. 2 yellow cable, if I could track it correctly that goes to the ignition coil. b a plus signal. 3 black cable, as far as I know this cable goes over detours to the key. But now the new starter has only 2 connections. 1 plus, is clear. But then it stops… Supposedly the black one comes to the other connection and the yellow one should lay blind. But with this configuration nothing happens… The car does nothing, neither organs nor clackers… I also have the yellow one instead of the black one, but nothing happens there either. Gt. Vllt. knows who with these things