Category: US Cars Forum

Hello, have an urgent question: Who can tell me which pears a Cadillac SRX has? There are the usual designations like H7, H1, etc… I have as driving light XENON and the vehicle is from 03/2006 and a German registration. If now would like to change the existing pears against other (lighter) but need the so-called information for this. Since the headlights are installed in such a way that one has to expand the half engine to reach it, I can not look either. Here the pear n, which I’m looking for: NL front turn signal front standing light front driving beam (also Xenon – probably not and only projection) fog lamp rear driving lamp license plate lamps rear diodes for 3. brake light diodes for turn signals and rear light It would be great if an expert could help me here. THANK YOU and greetings to all US car lovers!

Hi guys. I have a Buick Park Avenue Bj 1993, 173hp. He drives wonderful, doesn’t need a lot of fuel and is in a tip-top condition. But he has a big Macke. If the engine is warm and has been turned off for a few minutes and you want to start it again, the engine makes like an “old tractor”, bangs, pats, shakes and does not take on gas. If you have played some times with the accelerator, whether tender or brutal, he calms down again and then runs again as if The game then repeats itself, in the same way, when you make a warm start again. If the car is cold, it starts as if there was nothing else. In the meantime, pretty much everything that you can change was changed. Ignition module, ignition coils, ignition cable, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, Lambda probe, poti on the air volume meter, gasoline filter and the engine control unit and then also the EE-PROM, which is in the control unit, the injection nozzles were cleaned and the actuators all have uniform resistance values. But unfortunately NO success. Now all the people around the car are standing around and have smoking heads, because nobody knows where to look. Now I am looking for someone who has the golden idea what that could be. The vehicle is sold and the customer should get a car with which he can drive without restrictions.

Hello together, I have come up with a question in connection with the current type of car tax. In the meantime, CO2 emissions are always used as the basis for the car tax for new cars. How is this now for new cars from abroad, which has never existed here? For most people there is no information about the CO2 emissions. Will this then be rolled out by the customs or advised? Or is it simply charged according to old car tax? Would it be great if One could explain this to me The topic could become relevant in the future for many who get a used one from the USA

Hello! I imported a car from Japan that only existed in Japan. Now the headlights for right-hand traffic have to be upgraded for the TÜV. German version does not exist and therefore unfortunately no headlights for conversion. Does anyone know who can retrofit the existing headlights for right-hand traffic? The original look should not be changed. Technology and reflectors could of course be replaced. Does anyone have a tip? Greetings Charl y

Hi dear US car fans, have been driving an Oldsmobile / Chevrolet Alero Bj. 1999 with 3.4 V6 and the 4T45E transmission for years now. I now have 150Tkm down with it and it was time for a second gear oil change. At the first everything in the solder (2011), after change everything as before. Also now on the second all top, only fine stuff in the tub, no metal chips, beautiful pink oil, transmission switched tip top before the change. The 4T45E has known no dipstick, but a test screw, where m At normal operating temperature the oil just runs out and then it should fit. So 6,4 liters out, 6,4 liters in, no oil outflow so still 100 ml after and it runs out below, but not much. Screw closed, done … but … Now the Alero drove as if there was too little oil inside, the transmission toured high about 200-500 rpm’s to get into the Karftschluss and to march off. The worst are climbs with trucks, because I thought I have 100 hp st att 177. So check again and everything fits and still he drives like that. Mechanic just yesterday filled 250 ml more oil without loosening the screw and let me drive … look, he drives much better now, the slipping is still, but almost not worth mentioning. Has one of you ever experienced something similar? Can 250 ml more oil damage? Without that he drove totally bad. Thanks for your answers in advance.

Hello to all lovers of big engines, often enough we were confronted and mentally beaten with downsizing, speed limit, electric vehicles, Temo-30-zones-Innerstädian and other green eco-cram. There is a little light! In Ford Mustang Ford takes the 4-cylinder out of the range – it will only pass it with V8! Supply and demand buried the Mustang R4. I still hold my opinion that we will also be well supplied with V8 engines in the future. Also New vehicles! Daimler also struck the V12 years ago and introduced it a short time later. Demand will always be there, so the manufacturers do not want to lose market share and will continue to build and offer large engines. In the USA it continues (yet) – a matter of time. Good news in a rather wild time Here is the article:https://www.autobild.de/…/…tang-2021-nur-noch-mit-v8-19384885.html Greetings E500 AMG

Hi, I tried the ignition gun yesterday. I don’t know the idle speed of the engine yet, I set the only Pi times thumbs, so it’s probably still too high. Rp meter is still coming, I don’t have one in the cockpit (I thought I still have an additional instrument lying around, unfortunately wrong). So on the timing cover is a sheet metal piece, with 3 notches, of which a lower one, that should be OT. On the vibration damper is a mark for OT. The vibration damper has a n diameter of 170,5mm times pi a circumference of 535,5mm The ignition should be set with 8degrees. So if I divide the circumference by 360degrees = 1.49 times 8degree = 11.9~12mm I assume that the ignition must be 12mm before the deep notch. Right? I ask therefore, the engine runs and with the flash gun at the front of the first cylinder ignites the engine at cast 30degrees. If I turn the distributor further towards OT, then the engine starts to jerk and goes from 20-25degrees unfabricated Do I have a massive mistake in thinking, or is cylinder 1 at the rear of the soritz wall or what? Greetings Chris PS. The engine was cold, I tried the gun for the first time as I said. Can this be that the cold engine is so early? Do you have to disconnect the vacuum line from the engines or leave it on? The ignition is contactless.

Hello! I bought a nice Pontiac Firebird in 1991 6 months ago, before the purchase I wanted to be on the safe side and had it looked at by a mechanic (how it turned out afterwards the seller knew the examiner) so I put him to the picker and got a picker with 1 slight lack and pointed out that car bought, today icj wanted to make a picker again and then unfortunately the evil overcrowded before I counted everything what’s broken I post the list to it. Does someone know what you can do with it and whether you can legally prosecute the examiner? Because some problems with the car are really dangerous. and if someone writes that this happened within the 4 months that I drove, I can’t imagine and the mechanic today said that this is not possible, because car has only been standing in a garage. You’re a real dick!

Hello I intend to add a mustang and want to lower it of course! What kind of coilover suspension would you recommend? What else do I have to consider for the conversion? Adjustable panhard rod? Thank you!!

Hello, since Takata now also has the airbags of various Ford US models in the Recall, I did some research and came up with the following: Under the following Ford US page can be checked if a vehicle is affected by a Recall:Field Service Actions I have a question for the species in our forum, who is responsible for my US Mustang, for example? The vehicle comes from a large Munich importer, but from 2011. Does someone know who to contact/must? Must Is there anything you can do here?