Category: US Cars Forum

Hi ringsrum, I have a GM454 at the winding, which runs, but by no means as it should – too little power and restless running. The temperatures measured at the manifold pipes (each at the same place of the arc) are after a few minutes idle between 320 and 350 °C … only on the cylinder 6 not, there are only 160 °C. Candle face a little darker than the other, but not much. Compression on all cylinders approx. 10bar, ignition time and adjustment checked, carburettor agreed, Idle set, checked for false air, new candles, new V-cap and fingers, ignition cable crossed, valve stroke on all valves approx.10mm, E-valve shafts only minimally coked … I don’t know what option I still have. Does anyone have another idea? Thanks in advance – joe

Hello, I got a cheap 84′ Cadillac DeVille with 4.1l engine.(My first V8, though a small :-)) According to the previous owner, the car was still running 2 years ago, but during this time the engine compartment was a bit “devastationed”. I have the following questions: 1) Since some ignition cables are pulled off, or are missing I would like to know where the ignition cables are connected to the distributor? Would be great if someone could give me a sketch. 2) What kind of battery do I use on the car? Since the poles are inserted into the Cadillac battery in the form of threads, I don’t know yet what I should take for a replacement for it? Is there any adapter so that you can connect the Cadillac connections to a European battery? Does the Cadillac battery also have 12 V ? or 24v? I have already thought about somehow fumbling the Cadillac connections into a “hole pole” Ford battery. 3) Do you get the spark plugs on the front side actually without the M otor to expand ? Thanks already, greetings TheDarkOne

hello people looking for so-called balloon tires as they were typical for the amis of the 70s”Camaro zb.” so with wide rounded sides where optically then the rim sits deeper in the ripe for my pt cruiser “thanks in advance pt cruiser 60mm deeper on Unlimited 16 inches

Hello Have the engine of my 1989 305 TPI had to be drilled and honed in excess. After the installation of the pistons there were slight running tracks at the positions of the oil stripping rings (stock). The tracks are not yet noticeable with the fingernail, but I think when the engine is started that drives in the place lower. Does anyone of you have experience in reassembly of engines ? Can one recognize after assembly and a few revolutions at all no running tracks in the cylinder ? I have strictly adhered to the instructions during assembly. The resistance when turning the KW is also within the frame (max. 40ft P)

Hello, has someone successfully managed to adjust the axial game on the Chevrolet rear axle? My axes on Caprice Bj 1996 have about 1mm game each, which seems to me to be a lot. At Kadett C, the set-off measure is 0.05mm, but there are also plates that are placed between the bearing and the seat. Is there something like this for the GM USA rear axles? Markus

Dear community after years without climate, i.e. driving around with open windows, I decided for our Greece vacation to replace the climate compressor. So new original part (Delco 15-20206) ordered and installed in USA. Has also wonderfully funtioned. For two weeks. On the penultimate day (i.e. also for the whole journey home through Italy) the thing then went on strike, i.e. the wedge belt runs, then I turn on the AC and the magnetic switch attracts. My mechanic thinks 99% of the compressor is gone. But maybe someone had a similar problem and there’s a way to get the thing back to work without ordering a new part in the USA again for expensive money? Or at least a trick to find out if it’s really the compressor or something else in the AC system? Thanks for every tip and good ride. Michael

Hello together have a small problem with the cooling of my Caprice Classic station. A few months ago it happened often that the temperature indicator slowly rose just in front of the red area, but then fell down again within seconds. This could be done both on the highway, as well as in city traffic or on the country road. Then was again quiet for a long time. My suspicion was the thermostat, which was then replaced. The random temperature rise has since been eliminated. However, the engine no longer gets really warm. The display remains at approx. 140 Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius) and the fuel consumption has also increased, which seems logical to me, because the control probably tries to bring the too cold engine with more fuel to temperature (is I right there?). My question is now whether, and if so, how I can bring the engine to the desired 200F / 90C or where another source of error is to be found. Thanks for your advice.

Good day together, my name is Niko, I live in Berlin, I’m a freshly baked father and I’ve been reading at the US Car Forum for a while and I’ve been here at MT for some time. It’s been a long time and the desire for a US car has been getting bigger and bigger. It was supposed to be a van, more precisely a G20/Vandura. I’ve of course read the used cars tips here and at the beginning of the week I’d refunded a dealer a visit. Unfortunately, the G20 was probably rather a Lockangebo t (almost 7K for a rather rusty car, which of course would not have got a TÜV). And a newer one I or my wife and I did not want. Meanwhile my wife is a professional in the car search and we have a lot of browsed until we found a nice Vandura. So it has become one of 93. Outer color blue, inside green and leather. The car has some patina, which was so desired. The used car check has given the following result: The substance is good, bearing part are In good condition, behind and at a door are rust spots that need to be welded. A track rod head must be replaced before the next Tüv in a year, the hand brake must be adjusted and one of the rear drum brakes must be tested. The exhaust must also be welded to the Tüv. This is my first US car and I hope that I am not wrong with my assessment that all this is manageable. We bought the car for almost 5K, and have s o still reserves for above mentioned repairs. Tomorrow he will be picked up and registered on Monday. Afterwards he will also be inaugurated with the first holiday trip. I need a few tips: Where do I get parts in Berlin? Mike & Franks have already been found. What is to be observed in use? For example, how often does the oil have to be changed? I have only found a meeting in Berlin so far: the one on the IKEA parking lot. I will try again to find an appropriate workpiece. Photos come next week, when the car is there and maybe even a little cleaned up. Best regards, Niko, who now has two V’s and one R.

Hello together, I was offered a 1990 GMC Vandura. The vehicle is a suitable condition, but it has the typical rust spots for the age. Among other things also on the driver side, see picture. The seller has already got the suitable repair plate. How is repaired here? The affected part is flexed out and the rep sheet simply welded in? Greetings

Hello, wanted to ask how much you have to expect if you want to get a reasonable Mustang (years of construction 64 – 68). I know that you can’t say that as a whole, but maybe a approximate house number? An acquaintance has put the Mustang in his head and has not so much knowledge of used car prices. And I also have no clue about the prices of the US cars. But here are some “professionals”. I am grateful for every tip.