Category: US Cars Forum

Hello, I am interested in a 300TD with manual transmission. Ez.: 1985 I have the following questions: Are there different gears for the year? 4 or 5 gears? What does it consume on average in the city? Is it suitable for short distances? Do the front seats from the W124 fit into the W123? Thank you and love greeting Andre

Hello guys, I have a question. I would like to install an airride in my Mercedes W114. Chassis of HighestLow and air production and air management of Accuair. (Endo CVT tank and e-level) is the current plan If the chassis itself has a part inspection, do I need one for the rest? (in case of doubt individual acceptance) Second question regarding H-marks.. I have already seen some W115/W114 showing oldtimer with airride and H-marks. he has relations with the nice gentlemen of the TÜV. (best of all South-East Germany/Lower Bavaria) Thanks Jonas

Hello. I used to have a 123er 230CE. I also had a pair of snow chains for this one. And now my question: Which tyres do these snow chains fit? I can only remember that the winter tyres (on steel rim) were narrower than the summer tyres. Maybe someone has a 230CE here and can tell me which tyres are registered there? mfg Peter.

Hello municipality, have for a few weeks after about 30 years a 123 – this time a 280CE . As far as everything is good, but with the autom. transmission is not quite iO. When starting normally gently the gearbox switches into the next gear, but then switches back again – the speed goes then naturally also high – but only for a few seconds and then goes back to the previous gear. If I drive hard at the stop, he drives like he should. I unfortunately do not know if the car It’s a 4-speed transmission, isn’t it? That brings me to another question: is there a gear indicator that indicates the current gear or how to get to the pears in the dashboard? Vllt are only defective. Can be good after 33 years… There seems to be something like this below the speedometer. Say thank you very much in advance.

Hi, so far I have been a silent reader, but now I have decided to buy (first) a MB old/youngtimer, and I hope for your advice. I have hardly had a screwdriver experience, but I am enthusiastic about the old coupés and would like to buy it as a weekend/holiday vehicle. Short to my situation: And these would be: Based on this, I have limited my choice to the following series. I can’t get any further now. I haven’t driven any of these vehicles so far and would be very happy to get them. I studied the relevant websites, read here in the forum and bought a few magazines. But personal experience with the models or your concrete opinions on my case would be very cool! Thank you!

Hello dear car friends , I hope I am right here with my concern I bought me a 123 half a year ago, got on the first day immediately TÜV and so far only 50km ridden. PROBLEM: I have noticed now several times that the brake pedal is occasionally (until often) very hard, can hardly be kicked and the car then has hardly any braking power. The pedal can move zero, I thought maybe also the discs “glazed”, because it feels like this and would na I changed engine oil and brake fluid last month and I had hoped that the problem was away from the brake fluid change. (air in the line or similar) Was now in 3 workshops, which were rather over-examined or had no desire for a vintage car Can someone give me advice (clear is over’s Internet difficult) where I can start or give an approach to what this can be? I thought about the brake power amplifier, could it possibly also be a block e/Displaying? Didn’t know what to do with hard pedal discs now – but I’m not an expert either and we also notice you’re inquisitive / desperate ^^ Thank you and I’m looking forward to your approaches

Moin Moin in the round We own a Mercedes T1 309D with motorhome structure. The OM617 is built. A 3 liter 5cylinder with 88hp… I register here in the W123 forum because the same engine was installed in the W123 300D… The engine has run 195000km. I think about changing the injection nozzles… At the cold start it shakes 2-3 times. Then is good. But most of all I think about it because it no longer has the full steam… Previously it ran on a straight level with viieel inrun 110-115k m/h according to Tacho… In the meantime, he doesn’t do more than 90-95km/h on the plain… He just manages to climb the 100km/h… Is it worth changing the injection nozzles after 35 years and 195,000 KM? Can one say about how much power a few old injection nozzles take? Valves I will also adjust in the same course… Would buy outdated injection nozzles for 265€… Have a leak on the injection system… Does that come from the nozzles? . I’m a car-technically really smart but I don’t know about the injection system… Hang up some pictures… Greetings Thomas

With my 300 Adenauer 4 pieces of the things are installed in the petrol lines, also for the return. Some time ago I broke one during the assembly. So I have one less in the system. I believe that the engine since then consumes about 186l/km. The damper tanks are made of zinc injection molding, so can not be soldered so easily, and whether soft soldering makes sense I don’t believe. At a company in Mannheim costs an almost one five hundred EUR !!!!!! Inside is only a diaphragm under spring pressure, that I believed there is the air pressure in the mountains regulated. So if I leave one away, before or behind the injection pump ? Does anyone know ? Or is the consumption result of a leak in the tank ?? Hi Hi….( Picture no. 45 )

Dear community, Since I don’t know any more, I hope for helpful feedback from you. I recently bought a Mercedes 280ce of 79 (EZ). Technically fine, but optically rather bad. According to the vehicle letter, it is brown. One of the previous owners, however, has foiled it black. The foil dissolves already in some places and you can see that in some places the foil rises slowly (Rost). I was recently at the TüV (continuously). The examiner told me that if he Starts with the test, I would lose my H license plate (rust, foil, rims no longer original) – From the inside (except for the “modern” radio). So if I want to keep the H license plate (I am of course interested in the originality of the car), I have to free it from the foil first and then have it removed from the rust and painted. Therefore, my question about a good workshop for painting in Berlin (Neukölln if possible) and a workshop that can I have no idea what such a painting costs. In which range I move here (something between 1500 and 10,000 is too imprecise to me) if you start from a few smaller rust spots and run out of an external repainting of the complete car. In addition, which black varnish must be taken to ensure the originality? ps: (I also need original rims (hard baroque rims). Where can you find this or which dealer is trustworthy- E Thank you in advance. I’m curious.

Have a small transformer (T1-Bj 1985) Diesel and suddenly have the problem that he no longer accepts gas and after that he died and I remained “laying”. The breakdown service meant that air is in the fuel line and I should replace the one hose, which is already brittle. I will try this tomorrow, but can’t it be something else? Ok, with the transparent lines You can see that air is there. Can still seep in air? If I have changed the hose, do you have to vent it after that or is it possible? Thank you very much!!!